Updated:
03/26/2006
Jenelle Rose: Make up professional
Film sets, models, actresses and clients
in glamour, clean and artistic makeup
including before/after and behind the scenes film shots
On this page, learn a better
understanding of health, beauty, cosmetics and the details on the latest trends
in beauty!
Whether you
are a beginner or searching for advanced technique,
you will find it here, including how to buy, apply, remove
make up and put together a nicer, better you!

These pages give tips for males and females. Check back often, as these pages will be updated
and
give ever more information and more details! Browse around and grab a few ideas and if you have any
questions, please don’t hesitate to ask!
Skin Care
Beautiful skin is the key to
great-looking make-up

Always start with moisturizers, unless your foundation already has
moisturizers built-in. Also prep your lips! If you are a teenager, you do not
need to wear foundation at all, in fact you are likely suffering from acne
breakout. Do not pop these and do not use products that are drying; you are only
making the problem worse!
Anytime you use makeup girls, always make sure you wash your face at
night and moisturize before going to bed!
Another key to great looking makeup is a good scrub. Not to the point
of redness or causing damage or drying if you have dry or sensitive skin but
a good scrub makes for a great start because a clean face makes a great
foundation to work with and comes through to the end. You never want to put
too much product on, you want the skin to come through instead.
40's Skin
Skin type is normal but with an increasingly drier
T-zone. Crow's feet, smile lines, creases in forehead, lines around the lips,
bags under the eyes and sun damage (age spots) are much more evident. The skin
no longer rebounds as quickly as it used to, therefore extreme weight gains or
losses begin to show up on your face.
What to do:
Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle
facial cleansers, lightweight eye crèmes and moisturizers. Use of alpha hydroxy
acid products and a retinol product will speed up skin's cell turnover and
deliver a fresher, healthier glow to your skin. There are also prime and prep
products I use when I do makeup I can recommend. Some of these actually feel in
the lines and feel silky. I would keep the use of AHA products to a minimum, if
used at all. Do not use these on dry skin.
50's Skin
Your skin is much drier than in years past. Flare ups of
adult acne may be common. Wrinkles and sagging become more dramatic. Cell
turnover decreases by almost half.
What to do.
Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle
facial cleansers (possibly those that are cream-based). You may want to try
using heavier moisturizers, but stay with light weight eye crèmes to prevent eye
cream overkill. I like the Cetaphil brand of lotions and cleansers.

Makeup Primer:
Makeup- First Steps:
By
Jenelle Rose
Although there are variations to applying things like lipstick and eye
shadow, putting on basic makeup like foundation and concealer are easy!
Always
start with a clean, moisturized face.
Then apply foundation so skin looks even. If you use a powder-based,
two-in-one style foundation, you can skip right to your color cosmetics. You
don't need extra concealer or powder.
Your
second step, if you have any areas that weren't covered by your foundation
and need extra attention, like dark undereye circles, blemishes, red spots,
or broken capillaries, is where
concealer comes in.
Apply it with your fingers, a clean sponge, or a makeup brush in gentle,
dabbing strokes and then tap carefully with your fingertip around the edges
to blend. You can also apply concealer to your eye lids for a really smooth
look. It will even out any blotchy skintone and will help your eye shadow
stay on longer.
The
third step is
powder.
Even dry skin can benefit from the right powder because it sets your makeup
for longer wear through the day or night. I like loose powder better than
pressed because the finish is lighter. Apply it lightly with a large powder
brush, making sure to dust a little under your eyes to set your concealer
(helps prevent creasing).
With
your basic makeup finished, the rest is really up to your own preference.
Here are a few guidelines:
For eye makeup,
apply your shadows first, then liner, then mascara. The mascara will seal in
any eye shadow that falls on your lashes and actually make them look thicker
Apply your blush after foundation and eye
makeup so you can adjust the intensity of the color to suit the rest of your
face.
Lip liner can come either before or after
lipstick depending on your needs. If you like having an outline to fill in,
apply liner first and then lipstick - just make sure to blend the edges with
a lipbrush or cotton swab so you don't have an obvious line. If you feel
confident with applying lipstick, I recommend putting your lipstick on
first, then liner. I find the colors last longer this way and it tends to
look more polished.
To keep your brows
from looking fake and overly made-up, always use small, light strokes of
brow color so it looks more like hair than a dark line.
Eyes Colors
Simple eye makeup
can really bring out your eyes, and you don't need six different shadows to
do it. For everyday, use one lid color, one highlight, and one liner color
(shadow or pencil depending on your preference) at most. If you pick neutral
shades like browns, grays, and plums, you can actually create several
different looks from just the three.
Choose an eye shadow
lid color that will really bring out your eyes, think about the color wheel,
choosing complementary colors, those opposite each other on the wheel, give
you the most contrast and make each color stand out.
For example:If you have
brown eyes,
shades of blue, blue gray, and plum will make your eyes stand out
If you have
green eyes,
choose shades of pink, salmon, mauve, and brownish-pink to make the green
look greener.
If you have
blue eyes,
shades of brown, camel, and taupe will make the blue appear even more blue.
For highlight and liner, stick with
neutral colors like beige or soft yellow for highlight and deep brown, navy,
or charcoal for liner. Now you're ready to apply!
Lid Color
Since the lid color is going to be the focal point of your eye makeup, the
part that makes your eyes stand out the most, use a good eye shadow brush
and a good quality shadow that is soft, blends easily, and won't crease.
Applying eye shadow isn't tricky, just remember these tips:
Tap excess shadow off the brush.
Work slowly and deliberately.
Plan where you want the shadow to go.
Take your time, get it right (especially
liner).
Blend so there are no obvious lines where
color starts and ends.
Highlight
Highlighting is the easiest step in eye makeup. Using a small eye shadow
brush, pick up a bit of your light color with the brush, tap off any excess,
and apply to the area just under your eye brows. You should be able to cover
it in one sweep. Now, clean off the brush on a piece of tissue and use the
cleaned brush to blend the highlighter color down into the edge of the lid
color so there's no obvious line. I really use a highlight color more as a
blending and softening color rather than adding more color to your eyes.
Using the eye shadow
color you've chosen for your lid, swipe your brush across the color a few
times, tap off the excess, then apply the shadow across your lid in small
strokes. Don't get too close to the crease or to your brow bone, since
that's where the highlighter goes.
Liner
Personally, I don’t like using pencils. Pencils can drag, smear, cake, and
leave blobs on your eyelid that fall into the eye. Using a dark eye shadow,
which lasts a long time in a color like deep brown, black, navy, or charcoal
and a liner brush with fairly stiff bristles, you can get the same defining
effect as a pencil.
Wet the brush twirl
it into the shadow, trying it on your wrist a few times till the consistency
is right before putting it to your eye then draw a thin line as close to the
base of your lashes as possible. Make sure to start at the inside corner of
your eye and work all the way out to the outer corner. You can work in short
strokes if it's easier, rather than trying to draw one long line. Line only
the top lid or do both the top and lower the very same way if you like.
Experiment to see which "look" suits the shape of your eyes.

Basic Makeup
Technique, an Overview
By Jenelle Rose
Shadowing
Keep deeper colors on the
lid.
Use lighter colors on the
brow bone.
For a casual but polished
look, sweep one shade from lashes to brow bone.
Use cream shadows sparingly
-- the colors tend to be very vivid.
Eye gloss is the newest
trend. It adds a sheer shine to lids, but don't try it unless you know you
can carry it off -- it can look greasy and inappropriate.
Apply powder eyeliners wet
for more intense color.
White, pink and yellow
eyeliner pencils tend to make the eye look open and brighter. Blue
counteracts redness, and black will give you a sultry look.
In order to make eyeliner
easy to apply, manufacturers sometimes make it so creamy it doesn't stay
put. You can use a matching eyeshadow or powder to set your eyeliner.
Practice
your application and blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of
color. Remember, lighter colors bring things forward and highlight, dark
colors recede and add depth and shading.
Eyeliner
Position the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lash line along
the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner
using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general
rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the
tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and
if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire
lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.
Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a
less-intense color than the upper liner. As a general rule, the larger the
eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the
eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.
Eyeliner
smudging is inevitable. The eyes are naturally moist, and moisture along
with laughing, blinking, sneezing and rubbing our eyes ruins makeup! Avoid
using too much moisturizer around the eye; it will travel and convert liner
into mush. Not a bad look in a sultry rock-star way, but probably not what
you're going for. Try an eye gel in lieu of eye cream. Look for one that
absorbs quickly and be sure to give it 10 of minutes to absorb.
Using a
Q-tip, trace a line of neutral-colored matte powder or eye shadow around the
circumference of the eye as a base on which you'll place the eyeliner.
Eyebrows
Color should match your brows, not your hair color or use what color you
think would already exist but for some age factor or another reason. Apply a
powder brow color or shadow for best results with a stiff wedge brush with
short swift strokes in the direction the hair naturally grows. Do not over
exaggerate the shape of the brow by arching or going for “trendy looks”.
Mascara
Use of a lash curler is recommended. It makes you look more awake, adds
glamour and makes your lashes look much longer. It is best to use a good
brand such as the Tweeserman and only use them it on clean lashes, before
you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure for about 10-12 seconds
about two to three times at different points to even results and not get a
crimped look. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping
strokes, holding your upper lip up with the other hand’s index finger. Be
sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. A
metal mascara comb works best between coats to remove clumping and give
definition. To add Power and thickness, dip a clean Q-into some powder and
onto the lashes and then reapply mascara.
Without
returning wand to tube, apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the
wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of
the wand).
Lipstick and Lip Liner
A Lip brush or pencil is optional. Use a lip pencil to draw an edge when
applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard
tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark
for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your
lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your
accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.
Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that
make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it
almost always looks like a mistake.
Good brushes are essential for applying makeup:
Use soft,
pliable brushes. Avoid hard or stiff brushes. Today’s colors are almost to
delicate for stiff brushes anymore.
Use
brushes that are the correct size for the area you are working on. Avoid
brushes too large or too small.
Remember
to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color to your
face.
Brush on
the color gently with short even strokes; avoid wiping or rubbing the brush
across the face.
Gently
wash your brushes every month or so in a mild anti-bacterial soap.
Helpful Makeup
Hints:
By Jenelle Rose
It is a good idea to have a cosmetic mirror with
magnification and on this cosmetic mirror, have attached an additional
10x mirror for ultra close-up work to
see liner, pores, brows, etc. with yourself ideally able to use natural
lighting and in front of another mirror, such as a dresser. Also have at
this location a small quiet, clip-on fan directed at you from in front of
but not on while working with loose powder or mascara.
Before you start and after you are finished, wash your
hands. One of the last things you will do is your hair. The foundation goes
into or at least to the the hairline.
Go to the other articles in this website for steps
pertaining to moisturizing, application and so on. I will get into other
areas here, like for example lipstick.
L’Oreal has a new endless lipstick
that can be bought with or without gloss, so buy one with and one or two
without. They are fantastic because they really do last pretty well without
the dryness of others. By the way, the trend in lips this year is
RED.
You can get Sally
Hansen’s lip sealant and turn any regular lipstick into a longer
lasting one but there is a strong after-taste with it. I would recommend a
lip balm before the application of
any lipstick letting it absorb (10 minutes, if possible) before applying
color and don’t be afraid to use your fingers to pat it into the lips!
Lightly powdering will also provide more staying power as well.
Powder works wonders between
applications of Mascara too. Use an
old but clean Mascara wand for this trick, dipped into your powder; a
Q-Tip will also do but use carefully.
There are many types of
foundation, even in liquid types. If you have smooth skin, then you
have the options of tinted moisturizers, Mac’s
Hyper Real, as well as more matt-type
liquids and the paste types like Mac Studio
Fix, the latter works great with an orange lip stick rubbed into the
palm of the hand or a very small amount of orange pigment to counter the
effect of blue beard cover for males
and makes a "clean" face to pass as female. Use a
Gillette Mach 3 razor for a close
shave along with Gillette’s
gel for Women/”sensitive skin” (it
just smells better).
Be careful about using any kind of shimmer with older
skin and especially around the eyes (lids). You do not want to draw
attention to this area if you have creases. Otherwise, shimmer is good.
There are several stores such as Sephora
which carry brands such as Becca
which make a Shimmer you can use all over that an SPF of 27 and are
available in a flesh tone. I use it on faces to give a warm glow. I have
also used Mac’s Hyper Real combined
with their Vanilla pigment and
Clinique’s “Magic”,
all for a shimmer effect, especially nice in the Spring. Closely related is
new glimmer that Mac just put out
that is safe to use around the eyes but beware what you put around yours.
Things to have on hand and within reach are cotton
balls, sponge applicator, Q-tips, a sharpener and it would be nice if you
could have your brushes laid out in front of you in the order you use them
such as foundation, concealer, powder, bronzer, contour, finishing, lip,
shadow, liner, mascara, perfume, hair, etc.
Your products could also be organized like that as
well: moisturizer, foundation, concealer, powder, bronzer, etc.
What has saved me many times and will I pass along to
you, is to make a short, itemized checklist of what needs to be done and
keep it in sight. This list would include things like perfume, earrings,
necklace, lipstick, blush, bronzer, rings, watch, etc. Your own list may
include more or less. The idea here is that it saves you time and you don’t
forget anything before you leave the house or in this case the makeup
dresser!
Getting a Better
Deal:
By Jenelle Rose
Cosmetic companies
often make pretty lofty claims about what their products can do. So many of
them promise the sun, moon and stars, but those results often are just not
possible (like "re-training" the skin to act differently, making pores
physically smaller, and magically erasing wrinkles, just to name a few). We
all want to look our best, so we get sucked in and start to believe that a
miracle cream or potion might really exist - it doesn't.
Having said that, there are plenty of good quality skin
care and makeup choices at the drugstore that are just as effective (just
ignore the hype) as department store brands for a lot less money.
Foundation can be a little tricky if there are no
testers to try the colors on your skin, but there are still some great
products to be found. Try to shop somewhere that will let you exchange your
purchase for another color if necessary. You can also bring a favorite
foundation you currently use from another brand to the drugstore and compare
colors.
Lipstick is an easy winner at the drugstore - the
prices are so much lower than dept. store brands that you can afford to try
new colors and textures. Many of the products are even practically identical
to department store brands; for instance, Lancôme and L'Oreal are owned by
the same company and have many similar skin care products.
Remember a basic cosmetic rule - you don't always get
what you pay for! With a little comparison shopping, you'll find some great,
inexpensive products at the drugstore that work just as well or better than
high priced department store lines. I wanted to include an article about
getting makeup brushes from art supply stores but there simply was not
enough room in this issue to print it, maybe next time….
Now for some Specifics in detail:
Foundation:
By
Jenelle Rose
Foundation is one of the most important steps in your makeup routine. It can
make your skin look its best, even if you're having a less-than-perfect skin
day. Whether you like sheer, medium, or full coverage, there are
definitely plenty of choices for everyone's tastes.
With
so many different brands and formulas out there, choosing a foundation
that's right for you can be a real challenge. To find the right formula, and
the right color, you need to know your skin. Are you oily? Dry? Only oily in
spots? Sensitive? Normal? Knowing your skin type helps eliminate foundation
formulas that aren't designed for your skin type.
For
instance, if you have very dry skin that has flaky patches, a powder
foundation will only make you feel drier, and it will accentuate any dry,
flaky skin on your face. A liquid foundation with emollient ingredients like
plant oils is a better choice for dry skin.
For
Normal Skin, you can use pretty much anything that suits your taste.
Experiment with liquids, creams, powders, and sticks to see what you, and
your skin, like the best. Powder foundations are the easiest to use on
normal skin and always look great. Always choose a shade that matches
perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just
above the jawline for the best match; the right shade should seem to
disappear).
Testing
your skin: Wash your
face and an hour later press a tissue against your T-zone (forehead, nose),
then inspect the tissue.
Liquids
Thanks to advanced technology and a wider selection of colors, today's
foundations can make your skin look fresher and more radiant than ever
before. The color selections are better than ever too, with more choices in
light and dark tones as well as more yellow-based colors.
Powder and Cream-to-Powder
Today's selection of these foundations are a great alternative to liquid.
They give a smooth, even finish in a few strokes, and they are totally
portable for easy touch-ups.
Stick
For those of us who like quick, simplified makeup, stick foundations are
worth considering, especially for drier skin. They are easy to apply and can
be used all over, or just as concealer for dark circles, on eyelids as eye
shadow base - wherever!
Concealer:
By
Jenelle Rose
Concealer in a shade
that matches your skintone can really help with dark circles, red areas or
veins, blemishes, freckles, or anything else you want to cover.
For
blemishes, you want a stick or thicker cream formula with a smooth finish
that doesn't look cakey or thick. These usually work best because of their
staying power. Apply with a small, clean makeup brush, dabbing a small
amount on the blemish until it is covered. Use a gentle touch and do not rub
or over-blend. Once covered, apply a thin layer of loose powder to "lock" it
in.
For
everything else, including dark undereye circles, spider veins, small
freckles, or whatever you want to hide, choose from a variety liquid to
cream to stick.
As
with blemishes, the harder the spot is to cover, the more precise and gentle
you'll want to be with your application. For severe undereye circles (dark
blue or purple), a medium weight cream tends to stay put and resist creasing
better than a liquid. Apply the concealer only to the very dark areas, and
blend gently with a few finger taps.
I like
using a semi-creamy product applied with a small makeup brush for just about
everything, but you might find a liquid with a sponge applicator is your
favorite. Make sure that any concealer you buy is a shade or two lighter
than your skin color when used with foundation, especially around the eyes
and always be sure to blend.

Getting Color with
Blush:
By Jenelle Rose
One of the easiest
ways to get that healthy color is with
blush;
however, blush is the one product that is most commonly misused. How many
times have you seen a woman with a bright pink or peach streak on her cheeks
that is supposed to be blush but looks more like racing stripes or is too
bright? Applying blush the right way is easy. Here's how:
If your blush came
with one of those little compact size blush brushes, throw it away or use it
for eye shadow. Those brushes are too small and the bristles aren't shaped
properly to apply the color in a natural looking way. You need one that's
fairly full and round, with tapered sides for better blending. I personally
use MAC's #135 because its soft bristles and rounded shape apply the color
very softly for a subtle look.
Don't try to reshape your face with blush and contour colors. You can
accentuate your face and your cheeks naturally by just smiling. Smile, and
you'll see the apple of your cheeks (the fleshy part that stands out the
most), which is the exact spot to put your blush. Swipe your brush across
your blush, then tap the excess blush off before you apply it to your face.
Don't blow on the bristles or you'll introduce bacteria from your mouth onto
the brush.
Now that the brush has a
light layer of blush on it, apply it to the apples of your cheeks and blend
up and back toward your hairline.
Your blush should
enhance your face and the rest of your makeup, not compete with it. If you
are wearing red lipstick, don't wear peach or bronze blush.
For the most natural
looking makeup, try to keep all your colors either warm (think peach) or
cool (think pink). If you aren't sure what blush color will look best on
your skin, just look at your cheeks after you've been exercising, like
running. That color is your natural blush color, so keep that color in mind
when you are shopping.
Taking it off
By
Jenelle Rose
Always, take your makeup off at night. To get it off fast, try a couple of
squirts of
Cetaphil’s
daily
facial cleanser into
the palm done a couple times, followed by multiple rinsings, followed by
Cetaphil’s
moisturizing lotion,
a great combination.
Something will still be left behind like mascara, eyeliner and traces of
longwearing foundations or lipsticks. For the cleanest clean, consider
adding an all-purpose makeup remover to your nightly routine. For eyes,
Beauty Without Cruelty Extra Gentle Eye Makeup Remover
with extra gentle cleansers remove every trace of eye makeup with no
stinging, burning, or oiliness.
Remove
all your makeup in one sweep with no water and no hassle with
Lancome
Eau de Bienfait or
BeneFit Clean Sweep.
Both brands are non-oily, gentle to eyes and effective on everything from
water-resistant mascara to caked-on concealer.
Estee
Lauder has
Eye and
Lip Makeup Remover for LongWear Formulas.
I've been less than thrilled however with some other brands' removers, like
Clinique Take The Day Off (painful stinging) and Avon Perfect Wear Makeup
Remover (really oily).
Technique
Part one is female techniques,
part two below,
provides information specific to male to female transformation type of make
up.
Part One: FEMALE MAKEUP OR MAKEOVER
Shadowing
- Keep deeper colors on the lid.
- Use lighter colors on the brow bone.
- For a casual but polished look, sweep one shade
from lashes to brow bone.
- Use cream shadows sparingly -- the colors tend to
be very vivid.
- Eye gloss is the newest trend. It adds a sheer
shine to lids, but don't try it unless you know you can carry it off --
it can look greasy and inappropriate.
- Apply powder eyeliners wet for more intense color.
- White, pink and yellow eyeliner pencils tend to
make the eye look open and brighter. Blue counteracts redness, and black
will give you a sultry look.
- In order to make eyeliner easy to apply,
manufacturers sometimes make it so creamy it doesn't stay put. You can
use a matching eyeshadow or powder liner to set your eyeliner.

Practice your
application and blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of color.
Remember, lighter colors bring things forward and highlight, dark colors
recede and add depth and shading.
Eyeliner
Position the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lash line along
the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner
using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general
rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the
tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and
if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire
lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.
Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a
less-intense color than the upper liner. Make sure that the two lines meet
at the back corner of the eye. As a general rule, the larger the eyelid
area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid
area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.
How do I keep
my eyeliner from smudging?
Eyeliner smudging is pretty much inevitable.
The eyes are naturally moist, and moisture along with laughing, blinking,
sneezing and rubbing our eyes (all very human activities) ruins makeup!
Avoid using too much moisturizer around the eye; it will travel and convert
liner into mush -- not a bad look in a sultry rock-star way, but probably
not the look you're going for. Try an eye gel in lieu of eye cream. Look for
one that absorbs quickly and be sure to give it a couple of minutes before
applying makeup.
Using a Q-tip, trace a line of neutral-colored
matte powder or eye shadow around the circumference of the eye as a base on
which you'll place the eyeliner.
Eyebrows
Color should match your brows, not your hair color or use what color you
think would already exist but for some age factor or another reason. Apply a
powder brow color or shadow for best results with a stiff wedge brush with
short swift strokes in the direction the hair naturally grows. Do not over
exaggerate the shape of the brow by arching or going for “trendy looks”.
Mascara
Use of a lash curler is recommended. It makes you look more awake, adds
glamour and makes your lashes look much longer. It is best to use a good
brand such as the Tweeserman and only use them it on clean lashes, before
you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure for about 10-12 seconds
about two to three times at different points to even results and not get a
crimped look. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping
strokes, holding your upper lip up with the other hand’s index finger. Be
sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. A
metal mascara comb works best between coats to remove clumping and give
definition. To add Power and thickness, dip a clean Q-into some powder and
onto the lashes and then reapply mascara.
Without
returning wand to tube, apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the
wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of
the wand).
Lipstick and Lip Liner
A
Lip brush or pencil is optional. Use a lip pencil to draw an edge when
applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard
tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark
for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your
lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your
accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.
Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that
make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it
almost always looks like a mistake.
Good brushes
are essential for applying makeup:
1.
Use soft, pliable brushes. Avoid hard or stiff brushes. Today’s colors are
almost to delicate for stiff brushes anymore.
2.
Use brushes that are the correct size for the area you are working on. Avoid
brushes too large or too small.
3.
Remember to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color
to your face.
4.
Brush on the color gently with short even strokes; avoid wiping or rubbing
the brush across the face.
Gently wash
your brushes every month or so in a mild anti-bacterial soap.

from Profaces
Used by permission
http://www.profaces.com/
BLUSH
One of the easiest ways to
get a healthy look is with blush -- unfortunately, it is often misused.
Here is the correct and easy way to apply blush: First, start with a
good quality blush brush. You can accentuate your face and cheeks naturally.
Smile and you will see the fleshy part that stands out the most; this is
the apple of your checks. This is your starting point for applying your blush.
Apply a light layer of blush to the apples of your cheeks and
blend up and back toward your hairline.
-
TIP: Tap off the excess blush from your brush before applying to your face.
Do not blow on the bristles or you will put bacteria from your mouth on
to the brush. Compact size blush brushes are too small and the bristles are
not shaped properly. Once again, use a good quality brush.
-
TIP: To find the perfect color blush for your skin, look at your cheeks after
you have exercised. That is what your natural blush color should look
like.
EYEBROWS
The eyebrows are the most
important feature in defining the face. The trick to applying a natural eyebrow shape is
using a hard stiff, short brush, and working with colorations instead
of pencils. Pencils can be used, but it takes practice and patience to get a
natural look.
The first step is
tweezing. Start by
thinning the eyebrow, and then slowly begin to define the arch.
The arch should reach the highest point above the middle of your iris.
Thin from that point out. The brows are the frames of your eyes. Don't be
afraid to tweeze your eyebrows - BUT NEVER SHAVE YOUR EYEBROWS. Spend
your money on a good tweezers.
The general rule of determining the shape of your eyebrow
is to hold a pencil vertically alongside your face to the point where the
pencil meets your eyebrow. That is the natural starting point.
Tweeze the stray hairs between the two starting points. The end
point is found by angling the pencil past the outer corner of your eye.
Remove stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below your natural arch.
The shape and grooming of
your eyebrows will make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more
naturally then wearing a lot of makeup. Be careful, as heavy brows will
overpower your face. Shape your eyebrows by tweezing the hairs from
underneath, not from above.
-
TIP: Tweeze after a shower and it will be less painful. Most people have
a good natural shape; it just needs to be defined
better.
-
TIP:
Take the color that is the closest to your eyebrow color and fill in
the gaps to make a nicely groomed brow. If in doubt, always go a
little lighter then your brow.

EYESHADOW
Rule # 1 about eye
shadow; when you look at a women's face, you see her eyes not her eye shadow.
The general rule is that light shades, bring out your eyes, darker shades
give them dimension. If you have small eyes and want to give the impression
of larger eyes, you want to stay with lighter shades. If you have
large eyes or protruding eyes, you would want to use darker shades. To
prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, and then
powder. This gives you a clean canvas for your colorations
The first step of
applying eye shadow is to apply a light color over your entire eyelid from
lash line to brow. Use a large flat eye shadow brush. Always use good
quality brushes.
The second step is to
apply a medium shadow color on your lower lid from lash line to the crease of
your eye. Use a fluff brush.
The third step is to
use your darkest color as a liner and apply along your lash line. To
insure shadow will not flake, dampen your eyeliner brush before applying
shadow. This will make it last longer.
Once your foundation is
on, gradually apply lighter shades first, slowly working up to your final color.
An important fact to remember is, use colors that blend together naturally. It's
not where you place the colors: it's that they work together and blend together
invisibly.
- TIP: You do not want this to look like three separate colors.
GENERAL TIPS
1.
Be careful with
shimmery products, especially on your eyes; they tend to
collect in creases.
2.
If you have large and open eyes, don’t use loud or bright colors that
will over emphasize the fullness. You want them to be soft and keep a
person’s attention.
3.
On deep-set eyes,
you should use shadow colors that are on the light side of the color spectrum.
4.
For a light or
sheer look, dampen sponge before applying foundation.
5.
Don’t test foundation or concealer color on your hand. Match it to the
skin on your face
and neck.
6.
Make sure you
shake your foundation vigorously before applying.
7.
If you have
sallow skin, pick a foundation that disappears on your face. To
counteract your skin tone choose a pink or rosy blush.
8.
If your mascara
thickens when it reaches the end of the tube, place tube in warm water. That
will help make the mascara thinner.
9.
Don’t pump your mascara wand into the mascara container.
This pushes air in the container and makes the mascara dry out faster.
Gently insert the wand, turn two or three times, then remove and apply to lashes
10. Always use
less mascara on your lower lashes.
11. For clumpy
eyelashes, use a lash comb to remove clumps.
12. If you have
problems under the eye such as dark circles, bags, uneven skin tones, wrinkled
skin, etc…. these problems will become more obvious if you apply mascara to
the bottom lashes.
13. Even if you
do not use foundation or concealer a powder will give the skin a matte
finished appearance.
14. Powder makes
things stay in place whether it is cream based products that move around or
foundations, pencils or concealers.
15. Makeup lasts
longer with powder application
16. Powder stops
shine. Don’t over powder; it is healthy to have some sheen.
17. Before applying
powder make sure there are no lines or creases. Once you powder, it will stay
put.
18. If your face
is very moist, blot first gently with a tissue, otherwise the powder will clump.
19. Put a light
layer of powder under the eyes before applying eye shadow. If color falls when applying color, it can be gently
whisked away after you have finished your application.
20. Too much
color? Dust on a layer of loose powder or pressed powder to take off the edge.
21. Don’t worry about
matching your lip color to your blush; just keep it in the same
color family.
22. The thinner
your lips, the more neutral your lip color should be.
23. Mixing colors
is the best way to vary your lipstick shades.
24. Avoid true red
shades if your face
is blotchy, irritated or ruddy. Your lips will draw attention to your skin.
25. A great way to
organize your lipsticks or use up the end of your lipstick is to dig out or cut
off a chunk of lip color and place it in a lipstick palette case.
26. Pale shades of
lipstick make lips look fuller.
27. To enhance a
pout, dab a silver lip-gloss onto the center of your lower lip.
28. If lip liner is
too dark tone it down with a small amount of foundation then reapply lip liner.
29. Vitamin E oil
gives your lips a topcoat plus seals in color. This also creates instant shine
and helps to protect sensitive areas.
30. To prevent
lipstick from getting on your teeth, put your finger in your mouth and close
your lips-when you withdraw your finger it will remove excess color.
31. When tweezing
your eyebrows first apply Ambesol to numb the area.
32. Invest in a
good tweezers, we
recommend Tweezerman.
33. If you are
thinking of lightening your brows, try colored mascara first to see what they
would look like.
34. If you want your
eyebrows to stay in place, put clear mascara on them or a little
hairspray on an eyebrow groomer and brush to desired shape.
35. Concealer doesn’t
have to be worn with any makeup or powder. Sometimes all you need is a little
concealer and something on your lips. Make sure your concealer is one or two shades lighter then your skin.
Women insist on using the lightest concealer. Concealer should be applied as
sparingly as possible. You don’t want it to be cakey or thick.

bobbi brown
Look #One:

Foundation: Prime the skin
with a moisturizer according to your skin's needs.
Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your
skin tone and if you need more coverage use Professional Concealer under the
eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.
Follow with your skin tone correct shade of Moisturizing Foundation
for a sheer, dewy complexion.
Blush: Using your fingers, smile and apply Sand Pink Cream Blush
Stick across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline, then
blend down to soften the edges (for darker skin tones, use Soft Plum Cream
Blush Stick).
Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using the
Powder Puff on the forehead, chin and nose, avoiding the cheeks.
Brows: Using the Eye Brow Brush and a shadow the same tone as your
hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your
brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with
Powder Puff if necessary.
Eyes: Begin with a sweep of White Eye Shadow across the entire lid
and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones,
use Shell Eye Shadow).
Using the Eye Shadow Brush apply Grey Eye Shadow across the lid from
the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease.
Follow with the Eye Liner Brush (damp), applying a soft line
of Slate Eye Shadow close to the lash line (for darker complexions use
Charcoal Eye Shadow).
Finish with one coat of Black Thickening Mascara.
Lips: Apply Pink Berry Lip Stain or Pink Lip Color and line with
either Nude or Pink Lip Pencil .
Top with a touch of Petal Pink Lip Gloss.
For a richer look, mix Pink and Chocolate Lip Color topped with White
Lip Gloss.
Nails: Apply Pink Sheer Nail Wash.
Tip: Customize your lip color by experimenting with various lip
pencils.
Using Pink, Nude, Raisin or Chocolate Lip Pencil you can brighten any lip.
Look
#Two:

Foundation: Prime the skin
with Face Lotion or Hydrating Face Cream according to your skin's needs.
Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than
your skin tone or, if necessary, Professional Concealer under the eyes and
to any uneven areas of the face.
Follow with your skin tone correct shade of appropriate foundation to
even out the complexion. Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face
Powder using Powder Puff. Brush off any excess using Powder Brush.
Brows: Using Eye Brow Brush and a shadow that is the same tone as
your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of
your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color
with Powder Puff if necessary.
Eyes: Begin with a sweep of Bone Eye Shadow across the entire lid and
up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use
Banana Shadow).
Using Eye Shadow Brush apply Banana Eye Shadow across the lid from
the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease (for darker complexions, apply
Toast Eye Shadow).
Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under
the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.
Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under
the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.
Using Eye Definer Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and
under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the
contour.
Using Eye Definer Brush apply a line or Rich Brown Eye Shadow around
the entire eye close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Mahogany
Eye Shadow). Make sure to tap brush on the back of the hand for a soft
smudgy line.
Finish with one coat of Dark Brown Thickening Mascara.
Option: Apply a touch of Pale Yellow Shimmer Eye Shadow on the lid or brow
bone using your index finger.
Blush: Using the Bronzer Brush, smile and apply light Bronzing Powder
across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline.
Blend down to soften the edges.
For a pop of color, follow with Apricot Blush applied to the apple of
the cheek (for darker skin tones use Medium or Dark Bronzing Powder followed
by Apricot Blush).
Lips: Apply Garnet Lip Shimmer lined with Cola Lip Pencil. Honey Lip
Gloss can be layered on top to give the lips a fabulous glow.
Option: Use Malt Lip Shimmer lined Chocolate Lip Pencil layered with
Honey Lip Gloss.
Nails: Layer Brown Shimmer Nail Wash over Brown Sheer Nail Wash.
Tip: For an evening face line the lips with Red or Chocolate Lip
Pencil.



Wide-Set Eyes...are
more than one eye-length apart.
Your Goal: Make your eyes look closer together by emphasizing
the inner third of the eye.
Line: Starting at the inner corners, line the eye completely, top and
bottom.
Accent: Apply light shade on the outer 2/3 of the lid, lashes to
browbone, brushing towards the outer corners.
Define: Sweep your deep color on the inside third of the lid,
brushing towards the inner corner of eyes. Shadow from lashes to just below
the browbone. Blend edges into the light shade to get a soft gradation of
color.
For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Center a little highlighter just under the brow in the
middle of the eye.
Brows & Lashes: Accent color a little heavier at the beginning of
brows. Don't extend brow color beyond your natural line. Apply lashcolor
evenly on upper and lower lashes, with an extra coat or two on the lashes
closest to the inner corner of the eye.
Deep-Set Eyes
Deep-Set Eyes ... are recessed or shadowed by a prominent brow bone.
Lids may be hidden and the eyebrows appear close to the eyes.
Your Goal: Make the eyes look more open, less recessed.
Line: Using a fine line, outline upper and lower lids evenly.
Accent: Sweep light color over the entire lid, lashes to brows.
Define: Stroke your deep shade just ABOVE (not in) the eye's natural
crease. Blend lightly at the edges to soften. This brings the lid portion
'forward' optically.
For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Brush a little highlighter in and along the lid crease. Do
not blend.
Brows & Lashes: Raise the plane of the brow line by skimming brow
color lightly along the tops of brows. Since pale brows make eyes look even
more recessed, select brow color a shade or two darker than your natural
tone. Mascara top and bottom lashes lavishly.
Prominent ("Bette
Davis") Eyes
Prominent Eyes
...are large and may appear to bulge, with prominent upper lids.
Your Goal: Bring the eyes in a little and minimize the top lids.
Line: Line upper and lower lids, with a slightly wider band of liner
along the lashes of the lower lid.
Accent: Sweep light shadow horizontally across the browbone to take
the focus off the lid area.
Define: Sweep a horizontal band of deep shadow across the whole lid,
extending from the inner corner to just beyond the outer edge of the eye.
This subtly elongates and minimizes prominent lids.
For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Add a dot of highlighter below the arch of the brow.
Brows & Lashes: Emphasize the highest point of the brow to counteract
the roundness of the eye shape. Lightly mascara top lashes, concentrating
more color on lower lashes.
Round Eyes
Round
Eyes
....are shaped almost perfectly oval, not deep-set or overly prominent.
Your Goal: To give eyes more elongation.
Line: Outline both lids evenly, top and bottom, extending eyeliner
just beyond the outer corners.
Accent: Focus light color on the outer section of the browbone,
brushing outward to elongate the eye. Cover area from browline to lid
crease.
Define: Concentrate deep shade at the edge of the eyes, extending
color out beyond the eye to elongate.
For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Overlay a little highlighter on the highest edge of the
browbone.
Brows &
Lashes: Extend the outside edges of the brows. Creating an arch will also
make the eye look less round. Concentrate mascara on the top lashes,
especially on the outer corners of the eyes.
Down-Slanting Eyes

Down-slanting eyes...are
eyes that seem to droop downward at the outer edges.
Your Goal: "Lift" the outside edges for a livelier look.
Line: Line upper and lower lids. On the lower lid only, slant the
liner upward, extending a bit beyond the outside corner of the eye
Accent: Brush light shade along the browbone, concentrating most
Of the color on the outer edges and slanting upward.
Define: Apply deep color to the outer third of the lid, from lashes
to crease. Stroke upward at the outer edge to create a lifting effect.
For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Add a touch of highlighter to the highest point of the
browbone.
Brows & Lashes: Accent (or create) a gentle arch to give the brow a
slight upslant. Focus most of your lashcolor on the upper lashes, especially
at the outside corners.
Hooded Eyes
Hooded
Eyes
...are eyes with sagging lids and folds of skin around them.
Your Goal: To minimize the hooded effect.
Line: Use a fine line to outline the lids, upper and lower.
Accent: Sweep light color on the highest point of the browbone,
above the crease.
Define: Smooth deep color horizontally over hooded area, (slightly
above the crease of the eyelid).
For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Overlay highlight over the browbone.
Brows & Lashes: Shape brows into an arch to "lift' the eye further.
Concentrate most of your mascara on upper and lower lashes from
inner corner to the middle of the eye.
Small Eyes
Small
Eyes...are
smaller than average, or when compared to the rest of
your features.
Your Goal: Make eyes look larger.
Line: Use a fine line to outline the entire eye. Use a light to
medium shade of eyeliner
To avoid "closing" in the eye and making it look even smaller.
Accent: Brush a light shade over the entire lid from lashes to
browbone to "open" the entire eye.
Define: Stroke deep shade horizontally, starting from the inner
corner, along the lid crease. Extend color slightly past the outer eye
corner to widen.
For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Stroke highlighter under the browline, blending into your
light color.
Brows & Lashes: Brush brows up and extend the line of the brows
slightly past the eye. Thin brows make eyes look larger. Apply mascara
generously on top lashes and lightly on lower lashes.
Asian Eyes
Asian
Eyes....are
almond-shaped with little or no natural crease in the lid.
Your Goal: Create contrast between eye, lid and browbone.
Line: Line upper and lower lids, keeping line close to lashes.
Accent: Bring out the browbone with your light shade.
Define: Create the effect of a crease in the lid, by starting your
deep color
at the inside corner of the eye and drawing it horizontally midway between
the lash
line and the brow bone. Blend to avoid an obvious 'stripe' of shadow.
For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Add highlight on the outer third of browbone.
Brows & Lashes: Giving the brow a slightly arched shape 'opens' the
eye. If eyes are small, also extend the edges of browline. Apply mascara
generously to upper and lower lashes.
Eye Tips!
Tip!
Keep pencil eyeliner from smudging by going over the line with matching
powder eyeshadow.
Tip! Another way to line your eyes:
Use your favorite deep- toned eyeshadow, wet or dry, with an eyeliner
brush.
Tip! Use a white pencil to line the
inner edge of the eye to make whites -and eyes-look, brighter and
bigger; and to hide any redness.
Tip! Keep a magnifying mirror nearby
to check your work.
Tip! Shadow won't stay? Powder lids
before you apply your colors.
Tip! Apply an Eye Base first if
color settles into crepey areas or lines.
Tip! Less is more! It's easier to
build color up layer by layer than to erase too much.
Tip! Clean up slips and smudges as
you work with q-tips moistened in eye makeup remover.

http://fb.women.com/fashionandbeauty/
  
   

Tools you'll need:
- Slanted-tip tweezers
- Eyebrow brush
- Astringent to soften skin and anesthetize the area.
- Well-lit mirror. Don't use a magnifying mirror — it will
distort the area and make you more likely to overpluck
- Small scissors to trim excess hair
- Brow powder, a brow pencil and tinted brow gel
Optional:
The Brow Bible
Six Steps
to Perfect Brows
1. Brush
brows upward. Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch.
Be careful not to take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald"
spots.
2. Look closely at the
shape. Your brow should begin above your tear duct, peak at the outer edge of
your iris and end at the outer corner of your eye. "Many women make the mistake
of taking off too much at the outer corners," says Weston. "This slants the
brows upward and makes the person look perpetually angry." They should be level
or horizontal at both ends.
3. Prep your skin: Put some
astringent on a cotton ball and wipe it across your nose, forehead, cheeks and
behind your ears.
4. Hold a pencil in line
with the outer side of your iris and note where the peak of your arch naturally
occurs. From the arch to the outer corner of the eye, your brow should fall in a
straight or slightly curved line, depending on the look you're trying to
achieve.
5. Hold the tweezers at a
45-degree angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. Pull in the
direction of the hair growth, or you may end up breaking the hair mid-shaft.
Follow your natural brow shape — not the trends. It's very difficult to let your
brows grow back into their natural shape after you've plucked them to death
trying to achieve a particular look.
6. Fill in sparse areas with
a freshly sharpened brow pencil. Use light, quick strokes to draw in hair. Brow
powder will give thin brows overall definition and is great for a more natural
look. Using a brow brush, sweep some powder up and outward over the brows. If
you're a brow novice, a tinted brow gel is a foolproof way to keep brows in
place. Lightly coat the brows using upward and outward strokes. Wipe off any
excess and allow it to set.

Brows
-
Plucking too much
- And over-plucking are common problems and unfortunately
ones that take time to correct. Let the hair grow in for a month or so before
you pick up the tweezers. In the meantime, fill in any bare spots with powder
that matches or is one shade darker than your brows. The powder's coverage is
lighter than a pencil, but it will keep brows from looking too harsh.
-
Thin ends
To fix this problem, you need to balance out each side of the brow. Fill in
brows starting at the middle of the arch and work your way toward the end.
-
Too short
"Brows that end at the arch can make your eyes look smaller," Engle says.
Starting at the arch, draw in the remainder of the brow just along the brow
bone. Be sure to use pencil the same color as your brows, or it will look
unnatural.
-
Unshapely
"Badly shaped brows often happen when you make a mistake and keep plucking to
correct it," Weston explains. Place a brow stencil over your brow and line up
the edges. Brush powder onto brows and remove the stencil. Carefully tweeze
away any hair outside the new shape.
-
Waiting too long to tweeze
When eyebrows become bushy and unruly, it's tempting to just tweeze away with
reckless abandon. Instead, trim first, and then brush them back into place.
You should start to see their natural shape. Carefully pluck the stray hairs
underneath the arch and anything else outside the natural brow line. Never
pluck from above.
Waxing vs.
Tweezing
While both methods
can produce beautifully shaped brows, waxing is best left to the professionals.
"One wrong drop of wax and you can take off half of an eyebrow," warns Weston.
"And it may not grow back properly." Waxing is also not advised for women who
have sensitive skin, sunburn or use Retin-A and other prescription creams.
That being said, if you've
never touched your brows, it may be worth your while to invest in a visit to the
salon for a consultation and preliminary waxing. Once the aesthetician has
shaped your brows, you will be able to maintain them at home.
Well-groomed brows are the
basis of any great face. Find out what to do with the other hair on your head in
Fall Hair Trends. Match your sleek look with great style from
First Call for Fall.
   

Beyond Beauty Jane Pratt
Recommendations....
Skin: Foaming cleanser-Aubrey-health food
stores
Also Clarins @$15.
Skin Care (naturals=best)-Aveda and /or Ling
(Soho) / Clinique=bad
Exfoliation-Apricot scrub or oatmeal=best. Buff
Puff=bad (too rough)
Scrub once/week, no more
Use natural clay masks once/week=pull out toxins,
oil and impurities (Natural kaolin=best). Queen Helene (“The
Cocktail Facial-$4.)
Drinks lots of water, fruits and vegetables (esp.
greens) Avoid sugar and fried foods. Alcohol, smoking and soda are bad too.
Stress=meditation, yoga and relaxation/breathing exercises
Foundation: MAC Face and Body
Concealer: MAC (solids)
Powders: Revlon smooth textures (more milling)
Brows: Max Factor Brow Tamer
Concealer to lighten and shadow for
glimmer-y effect=modern, cool
Shadow: apply with natural brush for best blending MAC/Drug
Emporium
White shimmer-y, warm lighter green, and gold’s-MAC
Liner: dark gray, brown, black, dark blue and dark
green. Dark matte eye shadow applied with sponge-tip applicator. MAC,
Chanel, Lancôme. Liner pens; for darker look apply with
small thin flat brushes. Not too much on lower-looks heavy and dated.
Inside lower lid is hip-blend with sponge-tip applicator into lower lash line.
Throw out before 12 months.
Curl lashes, wash curler every two weeks
Mascara-Brown is more modern, curved brushes are
best. Waterproof is harder to get off-use only if needed.
Maybelline two coats to upper lashes, extra to outer=cat-eye effect.
Blush: keep it simple and don’t over do it, wear
a little. Balances face between lips and face. Bronze, copper or pinky.
Chanel Tempting beige=best color ever! MAC shades
for both shadow and blush. Use natural-hair brush or cotton
puff-not synthetic cotton balls or pads, only cotton. Apply to
apples of cheeks and then outwards, also temples and forehead for color and
balance. Cream blush is easy to apply with sponge. Blend
Lips: need color and moisture.
Find one or two and stay with those. Never match to outfit. Stay away
from super matte/dark browns. Try light formulas-sheers,
frost and shimmers; pearl shades-bronze,
soft lavender, rose and cherry for a softer effect.
Kiehl’s Golden Berry. Go darker or brighter than natural
color. Darker=burgundy, wine, rose-brown; brighter-cherry
or red, well blended. Let natural lip color show through. Use lip
liner to build up thinner lips, blend inward. MAC (Spice &
Nutmeg), Chanel (Nude), Max Factor (Nude).

The Brushes of the Trade
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All pictured brushes are provided courtesy of
PRESCRIPTIVES |
Foundation Brush
Tip: Dot product onto
face and brush to blend, or pour product into hand and then brush on
face. Use dry to apply highlighter to cheeks. |
Buff Brush
Tip: With edge of
brush, use one shade deeper than skinone to contour and shape. Next,
blend with flat surface in a circular motion to soften and even out color. |
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Cheek Brush
Tip: For a natural
"Sun-Kissed" look, dip cheek brush in correct level of loose powder, Dip
it into cheek color and apply. This guarantees a soft, sheer look. Apply
to apple of cheeks and across nose, chin and forehead. |
Powder Brush
Tip: After applying
foundation, use brush to apply a light dusting of powder. Then, use it
again to remove any excess. When the face is completely made up (Eyes,
Lips, and Cheeks) Use the brush to blend it all together - Seamlessly. |
Soft Shadow Brush
Tip: Using a light color
eye shadow sweep across eyelid for an instant eye-opening effect. Can
also be used to highlight cheeks, nose area and underneath mouth. |
Eye Shaper Brush
Tip: Use eye shaper
brush to apply darker shades in the corner of the eyes. Next, with the
edge of the brush, smooth on the same shades very close to the lashes to
create a smoky effect. |
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Eyelining Brush
Tip: First dip the brush
in powder eyeshadow and shake off any excess. Then, use the tip to create
definition by brushing along the edge of the lashes. |
Fine Lining Brush
Tip: Perfect for wetting
eyeshadows to create a liquid-like eyeliner. Divide the palette in half -
one side for wet application, the other side for dry. Use as a lip
defining brush to create a very dramatic mouth. |
Eyeshadow Brush
Tip: Dust brush in your
powder eyeshadow and apply. Use lighter shades all over to highlight.
Use darker shades along browbone to accent and contour. |
Lip Brush
Tip: The lip brush is
perfect for smooth, even application. Apply lip coloring pencil first to
lip line, Then use the brush to fill in lips with a favorite complementary
lipstick shade. Blot, reapply for longest wear. |

A Review by Jenelle
Concealer - dab on dark circles, broken capillaries,
blemishes, or anything you want to hide
Loose Powder - apply with a big, fluffy brush to
give a smooth finish to your skin without the heavy look of foundation
Blush - apply lightly to the apples of your cheeks to give you a bit
of natural color; skip this step if you are naturally rose-y
Mascara - one coat gives soft but noticeable definition to your eyes
Lip balm, gloss, or sheer lipstick - keep it soft
and simple, no lip liner
You have never, or hardly ever, used make-up products. You're
concerned about your appearance, but never quite know how to make the most of
your natural beauty. You don't dare experiment too much because you're
frightened the result might not be exactly what you had in mind! We think you'll
be interested by what we've got to say...
Let us guide you towards your first, real make-up successes.
Under-eyes circles? Blemishes? Skin discoloration? Broken capillaries?
Shiny skin?
Don't let a few imperfections here and there get you down! Even the super
models get them sometimes - they just know how to hide them!
And there you are, all made up. No one will notice the make-up, but everybody
will suddenly wonder why it is that you're looking so good. That's the magic of
makeup with natural, 'built-in' success!
Tonight, you're going to be the most attractive woman out
there!
You've decided to really go for a total transformation; a look like you might
see around the nightclubs. Have fun and relish the transformation, because
above all, make-up should be something to enjoy.
A final check in the mirror...and Cinderella shall go to the ball! This
is but the beginning of your voyage of make-up discovery!
Try these links:
http://www.maccosmetics.com/
http://redbook.women.com/rb/time/makeover/00make11.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/mbody.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blhtidx.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blreaderstips.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blskincare.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blfoundationtips.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/bleyemakeuptips.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blperfume.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blnails.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/bllipsticktips.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blfacialstructure.htm
http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blmisctips.htm

What Skin-Care Products Are Appropriate for
African-American Skin?

The Skin Care Scoop While many women of color feel their skin care needs
differ from those of Caucasian women, nothing could be further from the
truth. Regardless of color or ethnic background, all skin is subject to a
range of virtually identical problems with similar considerations. Whether
it is dry or oily skin, blemishes, scarring, wrinkles, skin discolorations,
rashes, rosacea, sensitivity, or sun damage, the diagnosis, prognosis, and
treatment is the same for all men and women. There are certainly some
distinctions between varying ethnic groups when it comes to skin problems
and skin-care options, but overall these differences are minor in comparison
to the number of similarities. Think of it this way: regardless of skin
color, dietary needs remain the same. A high-calorie diet results in weight
gain, an unhealthy diet can cause health risks, and if you don't eat you
die, regardless of your skin color. As far as skin care goes, skin is an
organ (the largest in the human body) and needs the same ingredients and
formulations to be healthy or to deal with various skin concerns.
Research on this topic supports the points above while also noting the
distinctive traits between ethnic skin tones, though these traits don't mean
different products are needed for treatment. According to an article in the
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (February 2002, pages 41–62)
"There is not a wealth of data on racial and ethnic differences in skin and
hair structure, physiology, and function. What studies do exist involve
small patient populations and often have methodological flaws. Consequently,
few definitive conclusions can be made. The literature does support a racial
differential in epidermal melanin [pigment] content and melanosome
dispersion in people of color compared with fair-skinned persons…. These
differences could at least in part account for the lower incidence of skin
cancer in certain people of color compared with fair-skinned persons; a
lower incidence and different presentation of photo aging; pigmentation
disorders in people with skin of color; and a higher incidence of certain
types of alopecia [loss of hair] in Africans and African Americans compared
with those of other ancestry." While skin cancer may not be as much of a
threat or concern, skin discolorations resulting from unprotected sun
exposure or hormonal concerns are the same as that for women with lighter
skin.
If there is any difference noted in the research it is the imperative need
to treat darker skin tones gently. When irritated, darker skin tones can
stimulate hyper-pigmentation causing patches of dark or grayish skin
discolorations. Though this is easily treated, the main focus should be
prevention. Given my fervent belief over the years that all skin types need
to be treated gently, it's encouraging there is research pointing that way
for women of color as well. When skin is irritated it cannot protect itself
from the environment, it causes collagen and elastin to break down, it hurts
the skin's immune response, and can cause skin to become dry and flaky.
Regardless of skin color or ethnicity, all skin needs a gentle cleanser,
effective exfoliant, state-of-the-art moisturizer (over dry areas), a
sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater containing UVA-protecting ingredients of
avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide, and appropriate treatments for
skin discolorations (hydroquinone-based products), blemishes, and wrinkles.
(Sources for this article: Dermatologic Clinics, July 2005, pages 575-581;
Cutis, August 2005, pages 19-23 and February 2004, pages 3-13; Dermatologic
Therapy, June 2004, page 184; and Dermatologic Surgery, January 1999, pages
18-22.)
http://www.makeupdiva.com/
Q: I keep hearing about alpha hydroxy acids, but I feel clueless!
What are they and what do they do to my skin?
A: Alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, is a general term used to describe a variety of
skin-safe acids, like glycolic (derived from sugar cane), malic (derived from
apples) and lactic (derived from milk), which exfoliate your skin chemically
rather than manually (like with a grainy scrub or washcloth). AHAs slough off
the dead skin cells by breaking up the chemical bonds they have with the surface
of your skin.
What can this exfoliation do for your skin? It is actually great for just about
every skin type because it helps eliminate the build-up of dead cells that can
clog your pores and cause blemishes, and it can make your skin replace old,
damaged cells with new, fresher ones faster. With continued use, an AHA can make
fine lines soften, improve your skin's overall texture and color, and reduce the
number
and severity of breakouts.
Unfortunately, not all AHAs are created equally, but you don't have to pay $50
or $75 for a fancy department store brand to see results; many of the
inexpensive drugstore brands are actually more effective. When shopping for an
AHA product, here are a few things to keep in mind:
1. Make sure the AHA you choose has at least one of the well known, proven AHA
ingredients, like glycolic, lactic, malic, or even tartaric (from red wine)
acid. Products labeled with only "miscellaneous fruit acids" have not been
proven to work as effectively, although they can sound persuasive from a
"natural versus chemical" standpoint.
2. AHAs come in lotions, creams, and serums/gels, so choose the one that best
suits your skin type. Lotions are great for most any skin type, creams are for
drier skin, and serums or gels work well for someone with oily or acne-prone
skin.
3. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive and vulnerable to sun damage, so be
sure to use them in conjunction with a daily sunscreen that has at least SPF 15
broad spectrum protection.
4. AHAs can cause some irritation, even if you aren't usually sensitive, so
stick to a "less is more" philosophy. If you are just starting with an AHA, use
a low percentage (4-5% concentration), gentle product only once a day, or once
every other day. If your skin reacts well to it, consider increasing to daily
morning and night use.
Mild stinging when you first apply an AHA is normal, but it should subside after
a minute or two. Continued stinging is not considered normal, so you should
immediately stop using any product that irritates your skin. If you try using it
again in smaller amounts or less frequently and it still causes a problem, don't
be afraid to return it to the store for a refund.
Here are a few brands to consider:
o Alpha Hydrox 5% lotion for sensitive skin, 8% lotion, or 10%
enhanced oil-free gel (glycolic acid)
o Pond's Age Defying Complex (8% glycolic acid)
o Avon Anew All-in-One Perfecting Complex (4% glycolic) or
All-in-One Intensive Complex (8% glycolic)
o Circle of Beauty All Even AHA serum (8% lactic acid)
o Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion (8% glycolic acid)
o Philosophy Hope in a Jar (lactic acid)
o BeautiControl Regeneration Gold (lactic and tartaric acids)
Q: When is it best to apply a clarifying mask? Before or after cleansing?
Moisturizing?
A: Doing a mini-facial at home is a great treat for your skin, and for yourself.
Whether your skin needs purifying, hydrating, or soothing, always start with
clean skin. Use a mild, nondrying cleanser, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry. Apply
your mask of choice following the product instructions. When the mask is "done",
remove it gently, usually with a warm washcloth (unless it's a peel-off
variety), and splash your skin thoroughly with lukewarm to cool water. Follow up
with your favorite toner or freshener, and then apply your moisturizer or night
treatment.
It's that easy! For normal skin, I recommend a mask once a week. For oily skin,
two to three times a week is a great way to keep oil and breakouts at bay. If
you have dry skin, a hydrating mask once a week can really help, but keep the
deep cleansing varieties for once-a-month treatments.
Q: I keep reading conflicting advice about how to put on foundation. Which is
better: using a makeup sponge or just your fingers?
A: When it comes to the "correct" way to apply makeup, most makeup artists have
different ideas of what's "right" and what's "wrong". Here are some things to
consider about applying foundation:
Using your fingers:
• Gives you hands-on control over where the product goes
• Warms the foundation so it spreads more easily
• Gives a full coverage look
• Allows for precise blending in hard-to-reach areas (like around your nose and
eyes)
Using a sponge:
• Is sanitary and won't transfer oils from your hands to your face
• Gives a sheer or medium coverage look that is more natural than full coverage
• Gives a very smooth and even application
Personally, I like using a sponge because I don't want to risk transferring oils
and bacteria from my hands to my face (especially in acne-prone areas), I like
the control I have with a sponge, and the look and feel of the makeup is more
polished. I find using my fingers can get messy and often look uneven. Try both
and see which method works best for you!
Q: What's the best eye gel for smoothing fine lines under and around the eye
area? - Drew H.
Q: I'm 18 and have wrinkles under my eyes. How do I get rid of them? - Cathy
Q: I am 28 years old and I'm starting to get fine lines around my eye area. My
regular eye cream and concealer don't seem to help anymore. Is there anything
else I can do? - Toni B.
A: The eye area is one of first places on your face to show stress, aging,
fatigue - all of the things you'd rather not reveal! The effects come in the
form of puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and crow's feet (those charming
lines and creases in the outer corners). Is there anything we can do?
Before we attempt to treat any damage that's already there, it's important to
make a commitment to reducing the chance of new damage. This means protection
from the sun, and it needs to be a year-round part of your regular skin care.
Whether in an eye cream or a regular moisturizer, choose at least an SPF 15
product with a broad-spectrum protection sunscreen ingredient like Parsol 1789,
titanium dioxide, or avobenzone. Apply it every day as your final skin care step
before your makeup to help prevent lines and wrinkles from sun damage.
Now that you are on the right track to protecting your skin, what can you use
for the fine lines you have now? A moisturizing eye cream with ingredients like
hyaluronic acid, propylene or butylene glycol, or glycerin that trap water in
your skin can plump up the lines temporarily, so they look less pronounced. The
key word here, however, is "temporarily", because eye creams only make the eye
area look better when you are wearing them. To actually diminish the lines, you
enter into the realm of Retin-A, alpha hydroxy acids, and vitamin A (retinol)
creams, which can be irritating and costly. Try to get samples of these types of
products when you can to see if it might make a difference for you.
To reduce puffiness, your best bet is to treat the affected area with a
lightweight eye gel containing chamomile, green tea, cucumber, or aloe. I would
also recommend drinking plenty of fluids, using a cool compress or some cucumber
slices if you can, and getting enough rest (easier said than done, I know).
You know what kind of product you need, now comes the fun part - shopping! Here
are a few of my personal favorites to consider:
L'Oreal Revitalift Eye (around $10) moisturizes the eye area, and absorbs
quickly and completely without feeling greasy or heavy. Revitalift Eye easily
compares in quality to more expensive creams from Clarins (Extra Firming Eye
Contour Cream $42.50), Bobbi Brown (Eye Cream $32.50) or Lancome (Primordiale
Yeux $40) - all without the sticker shock. Remember: price does not always equal
quality. Just because an eye cream costs $50 and claims to erase years from your
face doesn't mean it will.
Avon Anew Perfect Eye Care Cream SPF 15 ($12.50) includes sun protection, which
helps prevent wrinkles from sun damage, and its lightweight texture absorbs
quickly, perfect for under makeup.
If ever an eye treatment could pass for a slice of real cucumber, Pond's
Soothing Cucumber Eye Treatments (around $8 for jar of 24) can! With cucumber,
green tea, chamomile, cornflower, orange peel, and rose hip extracts, plus aloe
vera gel and vitamin E, these pads feel heavenly after a long day, or while
soaking in the tub. Keep them in the fridge for the ultimate cooling sensation.
Clinique All About Eyes ($25) is, in my opinion, the best of Clinique's
selection of eye creams. It successfully combines the benefits of a gel (reduces
puffiness, feels cooling and soothing on the skin) with the moisturizing and
smoothing properties of a cream. The texture is very silky and makes a fantastic
base for eye makeup without crumbling or creasing.
I saved my advice about dark circles for last because they are the trickiest
concern of all. Creams and gels won't really change the discoloration, and some
cases of dark circles are hereditary, meaning no amount of sleep or proper
nutrition will make a difference. The best weapon is a good concealer and
careful application to hide the shadows. Choose a medium weight cream or stick
concealer that matches your overall skin tone and has some yellow in it to
counteract the bluish purple of the shadow. Apply it with a small brush and
gently tap it into the skin with your finger (don't rub).
Q: I have small eyes. How can I make them appear larger?
A: The most invaluable makeup lesson I've learned over the years is the use of
color. Just like in art, light makes things appear larger and more prominent,
while darkness and shadows make things appear to recede and look smaller. If you
want your eyes to appear larger, choose light to medium eye shadow colors for
all over and save the darker shades for lining your eyes. Here's a handy guide
to choosing eye shadow colors:
If your hair color is...
Then try these shadow colors
Blonde, Light Brown, or Strawberry Blonde/Red Highlight: light beige or cream
Lid: taupe, light gray, or light plum
Liner: dark brown, navy, or slate gray
Brown or Auburn Highlight: beige, very light yellow, or light pink
Lid: taupe, medium brown, or slate gray
Liner: mahogany, navy, or charcoal
Dark Brown or Black Highlight: light yellow, light pink, or light brown
Lid: chocolate brown, dark gray, or sable
Liner: mahogany or charcoal
To make your eyes appear larger, sweep the highlight color you've chosen all
over your lid and up to the brow bone. Use a small eye shadow or crease brush to
apply a soft sweep of the medium shade in the crease of your lid, or on the
outside corner, making sure to blend the color well. To line your eyes, use a
flat or angled liner brush to apply the darkest of your three colors in a very
thin, soft line along the lash line. Personally, I line only the top lid, not
the bottom, but you should try both ways and see which you like better. If you
get the liner color as close as possible to the base of your lashes, this
technique will also make your lashes appear thicker.
As a finishing touch, apply your favorite mascara on the top lashes only. This
makes the eye look larger and more open. You're done!
1. "I want to lengthen my lashes"
2. "I want a high definition mascara"
3. "I dream of long, curled eyelashes"
4. "My lashes are thin, I want to thicken them"
5. "I need a mascara that is sweat-proof, water-proof and weather-proof."
6. "I want a water-proof mascara"
7. "I want a fortifying lash conditioner"
Q: I am looking for mascara that won't smudge. I have tried many brands and
types including waterproof types but after a while the mascara leaves smudge
marks under the eyes. Help!
A: One of the most important steps to preventing eye makeup meltdown is powder.
If the eye area is oily, over moisturized, or in any way moist, none of your eye
makeup will make it through lunch, let alone through the entire day. Make sure
when you moisturize, especially around your eyes that it has completely absorbed
before you apply your makeup. If you have oily skin, powder should be your best
friend. Be generous on oily areas, and be sure to press some onto eyelids and
around the eye area (lightly, so it doesn't cake). Powder will lock in
foundation and concealer and help keep mascara and liner from running.
Q: What mascaras are really the best, both from bargain and expensive brands?
A: Mascara can be a very personal cosmetic, but I have some definite favorites!
Whether you prefer thickening, lengthening, or just basic defining, here is my
complete list of tested mascaras, including a handy rating system.
Simply the Best
**** Bobbi Brown (both defining or thickening formulas)
**** Chanel Instant Lash
**** Max Factor 2000 Calorie
Really Great
*** Jane Flashes
*** Chanel Sculpting Mascara Extreme Length
*** Maybelline Volum Express
*** Almay Amazing Lash Waterproof
*** M Professional
*** Maybelline Lash by Lash
*** Lancome Definicils
*** Estee Lauder More than Mascara
Good but Pretty Basic
** Stila
** L'Oreal Lash Out
** Nat Robbins Stay Put
** BeneFit
** Mary Kay Conditioning
** English Ideas Duo Lash
** Estee Lauder Lash Luxe
** MAC
People Actually Buy This?
* Jane Outer Limits
* Naturistics Long Shot lengthening mascara
* Maybelline Great Lash
* Garden Botanika
* Cover Girl Natural Lash Darkener
When it comes to mascara, try a few brands to see what suits your eyes the best.
Good mascara shouldn't clump, smear, cake, flake, or look spiky, and it doesn't
have to cost a fortune. One last tip: always replace your mascara every 3-4
months to prevent eye infections, especially for sensitive eyes and contact lens
wearers.
Stila Brow Filler or Brow Definer
Although these colors look just like eye shadows, they actually have more
pigment, so you need less and the color will last longer. Just like other
powders, simply fill in the bare spots of your brows with a small amount of
color applied with a stiff, angled brush. These two shades from Stila are
natural and go well with most coloring.
After applying the color, brush through it with an old toothbrush, a clean
mascara wand style brush (MAC #24, for example), or a stiff, angled makeup
brush. Finally, set the color with a coat of a clear brow gel like Origins Brow
Fix to keep the hairs in place. You can even do the gel by itself if you don't
need or want any color.
Q: I can't keep my lipstick on for longer than 5 minutes. I have tried all
the tricks, but nothing has worked. What can I do? You're my last hope!
A: Lipstick isn't made to last 24 hours, but you can get more from your favorite
color with a few simple techniques.
1. Start with moisturized, but not overly moist, lips
Apply a lip balm or vitamin E stick at least 15 minutes before you apply your
lipstick so it can absorb fully.
2. Choose a long-wearing, matte or demi-matte lipstick formula
Avoid lipsticks that are greasy or very creamy. A few good choices are:
o any MAC matte formula
o Maybelline Great Wear
o Revlon ColorStay
o L'Oreal Colour Endure or Lancome Rouge Idole
3. Fill in your lips completely with liner
Choose a liner that either matches your lipstick or your natural lip color, line
your lips, and fill them in completely with color. Lip liner is a bit drier than
lipstick and will help your lipstick last longer.
4. Apply, blot, apply, blot, and apply...
Apply your lipstick, blot off the excess, and repeat until you have the depth of
color you want. You can also add a light dusting of loose powder over your
blotted lips, and then apply the lipstick again to help lock the color in.
5. Carry your liner and lipstick with you
Have your liner and lipstick handy in case you need to touch up. Your lipstick
won't last forever, but these easy tricks will help it at least last through
lunch!
Lip Gloss Revolution!
Personal Favorites from our Panelist, Pam
The significance of gloss has crept upon the beauty market in a wondrous way.
Now almost every major line of cosmetics has added gloss to the mix. Whether you
are a Gloss Novice, or a complete Gloss Maven, there is a gloss choice for
everyone.
Gloss Novice
You're a "gloss novice" if you're not quite ready for lip vinyl but are willing
to take a chance with a dewy pout. Take those first baby steps with a balm;
though not technically a gloss by definition, balms are the easiest way to get a
handle on slick lips without having to commit to color and texture variances.
Try one of these novice choices:
• Bonne Bell Lip Smacker Dr. Pepper – gentle, transparent, cherry
• Kiehl's Baby Lip Balm – lustrous, jeweled, sheer, very emollient
• Natural Glow Lip Treats Honey – warm, clear, shine
• Old Navy Groovy Grapefruit Lip Balm – smooth, sheer, finish
Gloss Intermediate
If you are ready to experiment with color, texture and application, then you've
reached the intermediate stage of Gloss World. Don't be afraid to pick up a wand
and give it a whirl, finger-paint or use a brush for application. Once you've
mastered the basics, try mixing a gloss with your favorite lip liner and/or
dabbed on top of your favorite lipstick. Try one of these intermediate choices:
• Cargo Flin Flon Gloss – opalescent white peach/opalescent white lavender
• Hard Candy Angel - frosty, yellow, beige, pastel
• Lorac Pink Lip Gloss – white-baby-pink, soft shimmer
• Nars Sunset Strip Wand Gloss – sheer/shimmer orange
• Nars Harlow Wand Gloss – sheer, shimmer, lilac, beige
• Poppy Shine Maraschino – moist, berry, glow
• Shu Uemura (Red/Abricot) – sheer, gentle, orange, red shine
• Stila Nude Shine – creamy, light, brown
Gloss Maven
Welcome to the world of a Gloss Maven - shine is now your middle name. Wand,
brush or pot gloss, the sky is the limit! Beware though; things could get
sticky. Never fear - in the world of gloss, sticky can be a very good thing.
Sticky glosses will hold the shine longer and, if worn over a lipstick/lip
liner, extend the longevity of application. It's time to try the best of the
best maven choices:
• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss White – pure, creamy, white
• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss Petal – delicate, salmon, pink
• Clinique Glosswear SPF8 (Honey Bee) – peachy, beige
• FACE Pot Gloss Heavenly – sheer, shimmer, mauve
• Kiehl's Stick Gloss Red – lasting, vibrant, true, red
• Poppy Shine 14K – dense, creamy, white, gold
• Prescriptives Lip Lacquer (Voodoo) – deep, plum, grape
• MAC Lipglass – clear vinyl - extremely sticky
• Revlon Line & Shine Nude – creamy, pink/brown gloss & beige liner
• Nars Lip Lacquer Caribia – sheer, shimmer, copper, brown
Makeup Removers
Concealer advice for women over 40
This week we've got a great article on concealer advice for women over 40 from
our Panelist Brita:
"When it comes to under eye concealers, it really doesn't matter what you use -
no brand is perfect. Here are my tips to making the most of the concealer you
choose:
*First, try to repair any damage in the eye area with a glycolic cream. Keep
this area well moisturized.
*You're never going to cover the area totally. A Fifty percent improvement is
realistic, concealer is half the story. You also have to play up your lashes and
brows so this area is less prominent. *Whatever concealer you use, less is
better than more. Also, how and where you apply it is very important. Dot it on
with a brush, cotton swab, or sponge applicator, and then blend very gently with
a sponge.
*I like a two-step process to cover the discoloration with a mauve correcting
concealer, and then blend a flesh tone over it. I also like to warm up the color
on my hand, and then apply it with a brush.
*Don't put concealer on the entire under eye area - it will crease. Concentrate
on the area next to the nose, above and below the eye. *If under eye bags are
really prominent, gently ice this area before applying makeup.
While I've found that most brands are relatively the same, here are a few that
I've had particular success with: Trish McEvoy is good for a high end brand;
Revlon for a low end. The Body shop wand concealer is good for touch-ups. The
mauve undercoat I
use is a Joe Blasco stage product. I've found it makes all the difference.
The basic difference in brands is in tones - most of the cheaper ones are too
pink - and thickness. However, if you warm them up before using them, the
consistency is pretty much the same."
Lipstick compact: something new and fun from MAC
For something new and fun from MAC right now, I highly recommend their lipstick
compact to those of you in Nordstrom territory (the compact was created for the
Nordstrom Anniversary Sale going on now). For $24 you get a handy refillable
palette compact filled with some of MAC's best sellers, like taupe, fetish, gel,
pivot, twig, rizzo, and clear vitamin E stick. I love the enclosed lip brush,
which is of the same quality as all of MAC's brushes, only smaller (not some
cheezy throw-away). This compact is great for purse, travel, and mixing your own
shades on the go.
FYI - If you are a makeup maven like me but don't have access to MAC where you
live, you can still satisfy your craving by ordering products through MAC's mail
order line (1-800-387-6707).
Q: What is the best make-up to wear with red lipstick? It's all the rage
right now and it looks sensational when done right. What do you recommend?
A: My favorite look to go with red lips is great looking skin, subtle and sheer
eye color, and soft blush. Start with Concealer and/or foundation in the areas
you need it for a flawless finish on your skin. Depending on your coloring,
choose a soft neutral eye shadow for all over the lid, like something brown
based or cream. Skip liner, or do a simple thin line very close to the base of
your lashes in dark brown or charcoal, then a coat or two of mascara just to
help define your eyes. Since the focus is on your lips, use a liner that matches
your lipstick, and apply your lipstick with a lip brush for the best coverage
and control. For blush, I like to use something subtle that's close to the shade
I naturally blush. That's all there is to it!
Deciphering Cosmetic Labels
The ingredient labels on cosmetics these days might as well be in Greek. What is
all that stuff?
With the huge growth in not only the number of cosmetic lines we have to choose
from these days, but also the sheer number of products each of them has, it's no
wonder that our skin is becoming more sensitive and more confused than ever
before. Making sense out of what's in your cosmetics and skin care will not only
make you feel more empowered about what you're putting on your skin, but it will
help you learn what ingredients to look for, and which ones to avoid.
The Lowdown on Ingredients
Here's a handy guide to some of the basic ingredients you'll find in cleansers,
toners, moisturizers, and masks. Remember when reading a cosmetic ingredient
label that the ingredients are listed from most to least, just like a packaged
food label.
• Sodium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate - detergent cleanser that is effective but
can be drying and irritating to your skin. The "laureth" version is gentler but
can still dry the skin. Other similar cleansing agents are:
o TEA-lauryl sulfate
o Cocamide DEA
o Ammonium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate
o Magnesium laureth sulfate
o Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
o Triethanolamine
• Polyethylene glycol (PEG) - gives an emollient feel, or "slip", to a product
like a cleanser or lotion. Similar slip agents include:
o Polysorbates
o Propylene glycol
o Polypropylene glycol
o Butylene glycol
o Hexylene glycol
o Isopropyl myristate (may clog pores in some people)
• Methylparaben - a common preservative found in most cosmetics to guard against
bacteria, fungus, yeast, and mold. Some people with especially sensitive skin
may have reaction to these preservatives. Other parabens include:
o Propylparaben
o Butylparaben
o Ethylparaben
Other preservatives that can be irritating to the skin are Imidazolidinyl urea,
Quaternium-15, and 2-bromo-2-nitropane-1, 3-diol
Glycerin - an extremely common ingredient that attracts and binds water to the
skin. Check your labels for these other water-binders:
o Propylene glycol
o Polypropylene glycol
o Butylene glycol
o Hexylene glycol
o Caprylic/capric/lauric triglycerides
o Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone
o Fatty acids like Stearic acid and Linoleic acid
o Hyaluronic acid (a protein)
o Sodium PCA (found in all living cells, helps to maintain water balance)
o Collagen (a protein that makes up the support structure of your skin)
o Ceramide
o Elastin (a protein that helps skin stay elastic)
o Lecithin (found naturally in eggs, milk, sunflower seeds, soybeans, and some
vegetables)
• Kaolin- a white Chinese clay that helps to absorb oil on the surface of the
skin. It is common in clay-based facial masks and cleansers, but be aware that
it may over-dry your skin if it high on the product's ingredient list. Another
common clay which comes from volcanic ash, and might also be in clay-based masks
or cleansers, is Bentonite.
• Squalane - a nutrient-rich oil present in human sebum that is also a natural
anti-bacterial and healer. It spreads evenly and can penetrate deeper and more
readily than most other oils. Other moisturizing ingredients include:
o Isopropyl palmitate
o Glyceryl stearate
o PEG-100 stearate
o Petrolatum
o Plant oils like avocado, apricot, peach kernel, and sweet almond
Thanks to the Educated Beauty Cosmetic Dictionary, "What's in your Cosmetics?"
by Aubrey Hampton (Odonian Press, 1995) and product labels from Kiehl's, Garden
Botanika, Lancome, BeneFit, and Alpha Hydrox for the research information.

NOTE: Estee Lauder's holdings ~ Aramis, Clinque, Prescriptives, Origins,
M.A.C., La Mer, Bobbi Brown, Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan, Aveda and Stila
Cosmetics have all been bought by the Estee Lauder house.

MAKEUP: EYES QUESTIONS
I have so many after-work parties this season.
How can I look great quickly, without bringing all of my makeup to work?
"There's no need to lug around a ton of makeup
or spend a lot of time transforming your day makeup into an evening look," says
New York City makeup maestro Paula Dorf. Stash these four holiday products in
your desk and follow these simple steps to go from day to play in five minutes
flat.
First, freshen up greasy-looking foundation
with Sephora Collection Oil Blotting Papers. They remove excess oil and shine
from your skin without disturbing your makeup. Next, say goodbye to tired eyes
with EyeLite, Paula Dorf's light diffusing camouflage cream that brightens
darkness around the eye area for an instant relaxed and refreshed look. Revive
your daytime shadow by swiping Paula Dorf Eye Shimmers in Tinsel under your brow
to highlight. A great smile will make the look. Dorf created Lipstick Cream in
Festive, a glamorous holiday red, to match any skintone. Just swipe on and
you're set to go.
How do I
dress up my makeup for a holiday office party without going overboard?
Avoid over-the-top makeup in the office.
Instead, go for a shimmery makeup look that can be applied at your desk over
your daytime look, in a few simple steps:
1. Freshen up your foundation with a creamy
compact foundation like Calvin Klein Medium Coverage Foundation - the oil free
formulation glides on and does double-duty as concealer.
2. Define your eyes by smudging soft black
eyeliner like BeneFit Bad Gal along top and bottom lash lines. Next, get flashy
lashes with two coats of Christian Dior's new-for-fall Long'Optic Mascara in
Black.
3. Get a golden glow with Urban Decay Cool
Shimmer Stick in El Dorado. Apply golden highlights to the top of your
cheekbones, under your brow, and on your décolleté - if you dare!
4. Finish the look with a swipe of tinted gloss
to balance your dramatic eyes. Urban Decay XXX Shine Lip Gloss in Love Junkie
adds a pop of high voltage shine and a hint of burgundy color.
How can I get a smoky eye look?
To avoid complicated cleanup from falling
eyeshadow, start with your eye makeup, then do your foundation, blush, and lips.
First, apply a cream shadow, across the lid all
the way to the eyebrow and along the lower lash line.
Then, with a sponge tipped applicator, press an
indigo powder, on top of the cream shadow and blend the outer edges for a soft,
diffused effect.
To highlight, sweep a sheer ultraviolet
shimmer, just under the eyebrow and below the lower lashline.
False lashes and lots of black mascara finish
the eye.
Flawless skin is achieved with oil free
foundation applied with a sponge for a smooth finish.
Blend cream blush on the cheekbones toward the
temples.
Line lips with lip liner and top with lip
gloss.
My eyeliner smears and leaves me looking like a
linebacker. How can I keep it in place?
Start with a shadow base to keep shadows and
liners in place. Then choose water resistant eyeliner. If you prefer a softer,
more subtle look, mix your favorite eye shadow with Paula Dorf Transformer. This
solution instantly turns eye shadow into liquid liner. Just place a few drops
into an eye shadow cover, dab a brush into the liquid, glide it along outer edge
of the shadow, and then apply the mixture to the lash line.
Rich eye creams contain oils that break-down
makeup, so switch to under eye gels like DDF Soothing Eye Gel when you wear
makeup and only use eye creams at night.
And remember-any product will stay put if you
top it with BeneFit SheLaq, a makeup sealant. Just brush this product over
eyeliner, lipstick and brows to laminate the look.
"I like the vibrant eye colors for fall, how do
I know which colors are right for me?"
Strong hues can be intimidating, so use your
wardrobe as a guide. Let your favorite colors in your closet inspire you and
test drive the season’s new looks by selecting shades that look great on you.
Brown eyes look soft and sexy next to rich
blues. Green eyes sparkle when dusted with purple shadow. Blue eyes smolder in
shades of silver. When in doubt, stick with plum tones - they compliment nearly
every eye color and complexion.
If you want to go a bit less dramatic with
color, try pairing a vibrant liner with a neutral shadow. Use subtle shimmers
like beige on your lids to brighten the eye area and then enhance with a
vivacious liner like mauve. Apply powder liners with a small liner brush and
blend at the lash line to diffuse the color and soften the look. Finish with
mascara in purple.
Experiment with the new colors and have fun.
I have a hard time choosing a shade of foundation. How do I find one that
is right for me?
The right foundation balances your skin tone
and makes your face come alive. The wrong foundation...well, we all know how
unnatural a foundation that's too light or too dark can look.
To find the right foundation for your skin
color, first test the base or foundation color by applying a thin line of color
to the jaw line. This will allow you to compare color to the skin on the face as
well as the neck to avoid any obvious differences. The color should blend
perfectly with your skin tone.
As the seasons change, it's a good idea to
adjust the color and texture of your foundation accordingly. While your
sunscreen will protect your skin from changes in pigmentation, variations in
climate may make a new formulation more comfortable. Summer foundations tend to
have a sheer texture and are often deeper in tone, while a lighter shade with
more complete coverage is often preferred in winter months.
What is the best way to camouflage a blemish without looking like I've
piled on a ton of makeup?
First, choose a concealer base that matches
your skin tone. Avoid using a color lighter than your skin tone because it will
only draw more attention to the problem area. Once you have the right color,
apply the concealer by dabbing just a little of the product onto the center of
the pimple, then blending it outwards towards the edges and into the skin.
I'm not into heavy makeup, but tinted moisturizers don't offer enough
coverage. What can I do?
Depend on layers of sheer foundation, concealer
and powder to keep you covered this summer. You don't need to mask the entire
surface of your face, apply products only where you need them to ensure the most
natural finish.
Neutralize the redness in your skin with a
sheer, yellow-based foundation. Apply it to the center of your face and blend
outward with your fingers until it disappears.
Next, use a concealer to hide breakouts,
sunspots and capillaries that show through the foundation. For a final touch,
apply loose powder which contains ingredients that absorb oil and set foundation
for just the right finish all day.
If you need a touchup, try blotting papers -
they absorb the mid- afternoon "greasies" without disturbing your makeup.
I like matte looking skin but I don't want a mask of foundation - help!
Matte, polished skin is modern again, but you
don't have to wear heavy or opaque foundation to get the look.
Try a multi-use foundation. A weightless
formula veils your skin with sheer color and minimizes pores, leaving a subtle
matte finish. Next, use a clean velvety puff to set the foundation. Instead of
using powder, which can look heavy, keep the puff clean and press and roll the
puff over the foundation - this will absorb any shine on your skin and set the
foundation for all day wear.
I'm melting! I live in a hot, humid area and my makeup disintegrates
within hours. Are there long-lasting products that look natural, not heavy?
Sizzle-proof your look and follow these simple
steps to minimize makeup meltdown:
Start by controlling the oils that break-down
makeup and give you the greasies by priming skin with a sebum-controlling
product like Philosophy Never Let Them See You Shine.
Next, opt for long-lasting color like
non-transfer cream eye shadow, waterproof liquid liners and waterproof mascara.
For a healthy, heatproof hint of color on
cheeks and lips, try a stain like Lorac Sheer Wash.
Top it with BeneFit SheLaq, a makeup sealant.
Just brush this product over eyeliner, lipstick and brows to laminate the look.
Tips From
Newsgroups:
From kellyfl@aol.com
If you have trouble using
eyeliner because the make up inside the liner pencil is too hard and thus it
pulls on your eye and doesn't come off well enough onto your lid, try
Physician's Formula eyeliner. It is softer and comes off onto your eye easily
and without pulling.
From AllisonC@ix.netcom.com
I can finally contribute!!
There is a simple trick to help with the pencil. Get a lighter and very
quickly move the tip of the pencil through the flame. It will soften it a
little and allow for a lot better coverage. I've used this trick for years...
From saf@best.com Wed
Ø
Does anyone make liquid eyeliner anymore? I can't draw on my
eyelids with those stupid pencils, is there some trick to it?
I always found liquid liner
hard to apply. I now use a dark eye shadow and a damp eyeliner brush. I get a
nice fine line and can control the depth of the color better than with liquid
eyeliner.
From Sheila:
I usually use cake liner...and water. My brush is
synthetic.... usually white bristle when new...I find natural bristles too soft
and wimpy.... unless they're VERY expensive qualities of sable.
From Bill:
One major tip.... if you use
a liquid liner...consider taking a clean, damp brush and go over the line to
blur and soften it...this is very becoming, and will smooth out irregular lines....
:-)
You can also blur it with
damp "Q" tips.
You can also put on a line of dark eye shadow,
(like charcoal), with a small brush...this is softer looking than liquid
liner.... and especially good on the lower lid.
Please throw away your mascara
or liquid liner after about four months...it breeds bacteria in the closed
container...and NEVER loan eye makeup to someone else!
TRANSFORMATION

The Basics
Shaving:
Q: HELP!
Can you suggest a way to help ease the pain of razor burn?? I have
it pretty badly on my upper inner thighs!!! :-( OUCH!!! Also, do you know how to
avoid it in the first place??? Thanks a ton!
Jessica
Hi!
Maybe this will help.
Personally I have had great success with the
combination of Gillette's Sensor-Excel razor for women and Gillette's shave gel
for women. They have many formulas such
as for sensitive skin and soft skin, etc. Others have found King of Shaves and
Aveeno shaving cream to be quite good. Stores make a lot of things including a
shaving cream that comes highly recommended and they have a good name for
themselves.
Stay away from the cheaper products as that,
with your skin type, sensitivity, multiple directions of shaving and such are
the leading causes of razor burn and bumps. Try a specialized product such as
Bikini Zone for in-grown hairs or Tend Skin, which exfoliates. ONLY shave in
ONE DIRECTION which is THE DIRECTION OF THE HAIR GROWTH, to avoid in-grown
hairs.
Some hints on how to shave may be in order
here:
Take long slow, light strokes up the leg
starting at the top of the foot, continuing up to the thigh, being extra
careful around angles and curves such as the knee and back of the leg! It might
help to use your other hand that is
free to follow the razor up the leg, to determine when it feels smooth or where
it needs another pass. Start with one leg at a time, you will find that shaving
in the opposite direction will not be needed. Shaving in more than one direction
can cause razor burn or likely, in-grown hairs. Use this same procedure on your
arm pits and chest.
Be careful to not cut yourself:
Always use clean blades, shave in the shower after getting wet and get your
to-be shaved areas lathered up, doing one part at a time (one leg, armpit,
chest). After getting out of the shower, pat dry, never rub and use a
body lotion such as Body Source's Country Vanilla on your
freshly shaven areas. You can use a Loufa and scrub the skin before shaving
using something like Dove liquid moisturizing cleanser. This speeds the process
of getting rid of dead skin cells (exfoliation), thereby giving your skin a
healthy glow. Use separate buffs, one for your face and another, more coarse one
for your other areas. Stay away from bar soaps as ALL contain a
lard-like ingredient that gives them their shape. Regular soaps, including the
anti-bacterial kinds can dry your skin and are the worst things for your skin.
Always use a moisturizer after cleansing, preferably soon after. For the face
use one that has an SPF of 15 or greater, even in winter but do NOT use these
around the eyes! Use a special eye cream instead that does NOT include a
fragrance or other ingredients that can cause puffiness! The eyes need
moisturizers as that is the thinnest part of our skin. Be extra gentle and good
to yourself in this area.
Jenelle Rose
Shaving
What's the best way to mow your face
Step 1
Wetting the beard
Shower first, or at least wash your face well, to
soften up your whiskers. Never shave cold! Aerosol
creams applied to a dry face do not soften the beard
and therefore make shaving much more
uncomfortable.
Step 2
Lathering up
Brush -- If possible use a shaving brush made from
badger hair. The badger hair holds water in the
brush rather than repelling it, making for a better
lather.
Shaving Cream - A glycerin base shaving cream will
help the razor glide over your skin.
Applying Shaving Cream - The best approach to
apply shaving cream is to use a circular motion
ending in an upward stroke. The upward stroke will
stands your beard up and away from your face
making the shave even closer.
Step 3
Regardless of the type of razor chosen, always
shave down and/or across the face -- avoid shaving
up or against the grain. Since a man's beard grows
down, drawing the razor up against the grain will
only result in redness and irritation. Remember to
wash your blade under hot water often -- the cleaner
the blade, the better the results.
Stroke Directions - start with the sides, then the
mustache area, and last, the chin. The chin hairs are
the toughest, so this allows them the most time to
soften under the lather.
Step 4
Closing the pores
Once you have finished shaving, you will need to
apply a facial treatment to close your freshly opened
pores. An Alum Block will do this and eliminate any
small nicks or cuts which occurred during shaving.
Also an After Shave Balm or an After Shave will
serve to close your pores.1``
For the face normally I would just shave out of the shower
using a gel and waiting about 3 minutes for my beard to soften. I would then
starting with the sides of my face, shave using a Gillette Mach III and a sharp
blade use downward strokes, followed by my neck then chin and then mustache
area. If I was going for the smoothest shave to wear make up, I would wait to
shave as late as possible before going out and following the procedure above,
maybe going in more directions such as up and sideways until there is no more
stubble. I wouldn’t do it this way normally because it is much harder on the
face and you could wind up with skin blotches. I would then, if I were going to
use it, apply a moisturizer for my skin type and wait 10 minutes for that to
soak in before I applied my foundation.
The shower is the best place to shave the rest of your
body. Working from the top down, either in the tub taking a bath or standing up
taking a shower after about 10 to 15 minutes your skin is ready for a closer
shave. Using a gel, such as those Gillette makes for women or the “King of
Shaves”, hold your arm up high and against you’re your back, carefully shave the
underarm in downward strokes. Follow this with again downward strokes over your
chest, especially carefully around your nipples and on down to the belly
area. At the point from your navel to the genitalia, move across your body,
instead of downward from the outside inward. Use extreme caution around your
genitals if you do that area at all and then proceed to the legs keeping the
razor free of hair all the while. Shave with downward strokes again using a gel,
one leg at a time taking long strokes. It is especially hard getting the backs
of the thigh area and indeed don’t expect just one shave is all that it takes.
Don’t be discouraged, if this is your first shave, it could
take 3 separate days of shaves to get it all. Check later to see those hard to
get to or easy to miss areas. Shaving an area such as the knee or ankle, you
will want to be especially careful bending your leg to shave the knee and
stretching your leg (as in the underarm area) works best. Hair grows on your
toes as well as the tops of your feet so don’t forget these areas. After you
have done a few shaves, for maximum closeness you will shave up the legs and
follow with your other hand to sense missed spots. You will get the hang of it
eventually; just don’t expect to go out after one shave with smooth skin.
Follow all of your showers now with a body lotion. By the
way, just as in washing your face I would recommend a liquid, moisture-rich
cleansers for use on your body, not a bar soap. Loufa’s, body buffs, etc, can be
used to help exfoliate, that is getting rid of dead skin cells, bringing more
fresh skin to the surface. These are not recommended for the face. Instead use
an exfoliating cleanser one to three times weekly as part of your twice daily
face cleansings.
Use a lotion on you’re your hands, arms, legs and feet
nightly, a special skin-tightner type lotion on the face avoiding the eye area
and especially good is to use a Vaseline on your feet and cover them with socks
overnight. Use lotion on your hands frequently through the day.
MALE TO FEMALE Makeup

WILLIAM STEWART JONES
Copyright © 1993 All rights reserved. Used by
permission.
Bill Jones, Theatre Arts Department, San Francisco State
University {bjones.cra@mailgate.sfsu.edu}
There are a wide variety of makeup materials available. If your skin is
beautiful and you don't have to hide a beard, women's cosmetic makeup may be all
you need. You will have better luck matching your skin color in a department
store; because foundation makeup in a drug store tends to be so heavily packaged
you can't tell what color you're buying.
Regular cosmetics tend to be light and sheer. If you want an opaque makeup to
even out your skin tone, and don't perspire heavily, I suggest Kryolan Aquacolor
makeup. It is a water based pancake type makeup, which comes in a great many
beautiful colors. Aquacolor has a matte finish when it dries, but after a few
minutes the warmth of the body creates a beautiful soft, natural glow. All of
the Kryolan makeup is heavily pigmented, so it will cover beards and dark
shadows under the eyes without the use of other cover up products.
I've discovered that many beard cover sticks give you an unnatural orangey
look. If you have to cover a beard, minimize roughly textured skin or if you
perspire heavily; I strongly recommend Kryolan Cream Stick plus Dermacolour
powder. The cream stick is an oil base makeup and comes in a great many colors,
so you should be able to accurately match your skin tone. It is opaque enough to
cover heavy beard shadow without using a beard cover stick. The Dermacolour
powder is pigmented so you need to buy an appropriate shade. It sets the Cream
stick so that it lasts through heavy perspiration. Several layers of Cream stick
and Dermacolour powder will effectively smooth out acne-scarred skin. If you
don't need the waterproof qualities of Dermacolour powder, regular translucent
powder will work very well to set the cream stick. To minimize large pores,
particularly on the nose, a second coat of foundation and a dusting of powder
works very well.
Foundation
No matter what type of foundation you choose, it should match your skin tone
as closely as possible. Test the color on your cheek and your neck. You want the
makeup to blend down onto your neck without a visible line. Hopefully you will
only need a hint of foundation on your chest when you're wearing a low cut
dress.
If you are using a water base pancake makeup, it will probably go on easier
with a small natural sponge rather than a synthetic one. A natural sponge is
only slightly more money and will give a smoother result. Be sure to apply the
color with as little water as possible, just use a damp sponge. If you get
streaks, let the foundation dry before you try to smooth it out. You will
probably find the streaks will disappear as the makeup dries. Pancake makeup
doesn't need to be powdered.
If you are using a cream stick makeup, apply it with a piece of synthetic
sponge. I use a piece of fake foam rubber (flexible urethane foam), the kind you
find in the upholstery section of your fabric store. It's easier to thrown them
away than to try to wash them. After applying the foundation lightly and evenly
all over your face, you may want to add a bit more to cover your five o'clock
shadow. If you are covering a heavily textured skin surface (like acne) you may
want to blend cheek contour color into the cream base before powdering. (Powder
contour may emphasize the texture.) Now you're ready to powder to set the cream
stick. Apply a little extra powder to the moustache area and forehead, because
the perspiration is heavier here. Allow the powder to sit on the foundation for
a few minutes before brushing off the excess. This is especially true with
Dermacolour powder. The instructions suggest waiting ten minutes, before
removing excess to achieve the maximum waterproof quality. I find about three
minutes is sufficient. A big, soft blush brush is ideal for dusting off excess
powder.
Corrective makeup
I don't recommend a lot of heavy corrective makeup to change the shape of
your face. If you're being photographed for a formal portrait, then go ahead and
sculpt your face; but for everyday, too much corrective work can look
artificial. There are a lot of books available to help you decide if you are
oval, square or heart shaped. I think it's more important to create a feminine
version of whatever shape you happen to be. Some men have a definitely square
jawbone. Trying to minimize it with makeup is risky. You may inadvertently
emphasize your five o'clock shadow. A soft hairstyle is probably a safer way to
underplay the jawbone.
A strong or prominent nose is another trouble spot. In general, don't use
corrective makeup on your nose. You may over emphasize it without meaning to.
Instead, focus attention on your eyes or mouth. Some subtle work can be done to
give yourself beautiful cheek bones, if it's a little bit noticeable it's O K,
because it's often obvious on women too.
To sculpt cheekbones, I use Mehron Starblend pancake makeup, dry, as a
powder. A dry, clean blush brush will pick up the color and allow you to contour
the cheek as easily as brushing on dry rouge. Be careful to never get the cake
of Mehron wet or it won't pick up as powder. For Caucasian skin, number 2B
brushed on the top of the cheekbone as a highlight, and number 11B brushed on as
a lowlight, works beautifully. If your skin is a darker tone adjust the colors
accordingly. I like 7C for slightly darker or tanned skin. The highlight color
goes on the top of the cheekbone, and should blend up toward the hairline. (If
you have a wide face, don't go quite to the hairline.) The lowlight or shadow
color goes from the ear toward the center of the face, and should blend out into
the foundation subtly. The Mehron powder also works well to emphasize your
cleavage. Dust a bit of highlight on the top of the breast and brush a soft
curved Y-shape in the cleavage. Keep it subtle.
Rouge
Select rouge that is a soft pinkish shade similar to your foundation color.
You can safely dust it on your forehead, chin and cheeks for a healthy glow. If
you use a strong raspberry or red shade you may have trouble being subtle. You
can soften the effect of rouge by first dipping your brush in translucent powder
and then into the rouge. Rouge belongs on the apple of the cheek (where you turn
pink after you've been jogging). Be careful to keep rouge away from any part of
your face you are trying to minimize. For example, if you have a wide face;
don't brush the rouge all the way out to your hairline. Keep it more central, so
you won't call attention to the width.
Eyebrows
The shape of your eyebrow is probably the single most important element of
your face. Women's eyebrows are usually thinner and more arched than a man's.
However a masculine eyebrow can be very beautiful on a feminine face. Look at
Brooke Shields. Electrolysis or plucking will allow you to make a major change
in the shape of your brow, but clever use of paint can do a lot. Most people
need to lift the brow slightly to give it a prettier arch. For the stage you can
block out the brow with a variety of materials. For street wear you must be
subtler. Lift the peak of the brow with a few strokes of eyebrow pencil, and
blur them slightly. You can bleach out a few hairs by painting them with
foundation. You can pencil your brows lightly or use a small stiff brush and
brown powder to get a soft brow. If you use a pencil, it helps to brush the
eyebrow with a toothbrush to blur and soften the pencil. You don't want your
eyebrow to look as if it was drawn on with a marking crayon, so be gentle. To
determine the length of your eyebrow, draw an imaginary line from the tip of
your nose up to the outer corner of your eye and up to the brow. That's where
your brow should end. Remember, Eyebrows begin above the inner corner of the
eye, and taper off to nothing. They should not be heavy at the outer end.
Eyes
The eyes are the most fun to paint, but also possibly the most difficult to
do well. First, avoid brightly colored and frosted eye shadows. I know they're
fun, but they can age your eye. Learn to contour your eye with neutrals like
taupe, charcoal, brown and off white. The upper eyelash line should be defined
with a brush and brown liner or an eyebrow pencil, and lightly smudged with a
Q-tip. Even if you are older and don't plan to wear much makeup, you should
softly define the eye. To NOT makeup the eye is aging. The lower eyelash line
can be dotted with brown and smudged, or defined more strongly with a blurred
line. To contour the eye, keep in mind the natural lights and shadows of the
eye. There is a highlight under the brow bone under the arch of the brow. The
crease above the eyelid is shadowed, and the lid picks up some light and seems
lighter. This means the lid can be foundation color, the crease can be darkened
slightly, and a bit of highlight added on the brow bone.
If you MUST use color, use color the same value as your foundation, on your
eyelid. This is the one spot you might get away with a frosted color. Use a
deeper color in the crease (definitely not frosted), but use off white on the
brow bone. This combination will seem more natural. For major glamour you can
use smokier color on your eyelid. If your eye is aging, and the upper eye is
sagging, you have to be careful where you put color; but you can very easily
make the eye look gorgeous! Be careful that your brow bone highlight doesn't
blend down so far that it highlights the sagging fold of skin. Avoid shadowing
toward the nose in the deepest part of the eye. That will sink and age the eye
even more. The important thing to remember is to shadow the sagging fold of
flesh and keep any frosted colors away from the eye. Frosted color will
spotlight the problem. Your safest bet is a dark taupe or charcoal to minimize
the fold of flesh. This will give you a normal, pretty eye. If you wish you can
vary the look in keeping with current makeup trends; for example, 50's style
eyeliner. If you're going to wear false eyelashes, be careful to keep them
medium in length. If your false lashes droop at the outer ends, you must glue
them ABOVE your natural lash line.
Lips
Keep your lipstick a soft red. Bright fire engine reds can point up problems.
If you have a problem with lipstick blurring, try outlining the lip with a lip
liner pencil, then filling in with color. Powdering the first coat of lipstick
then applying a second coat, will help it to last longer. Most men have thin
lips and need to make them appear fuller. Don't hesitate to paint your lips
slightly outside your upper and lower lip line. Women have the same problem. But
be careful to not overdo it. If your new mouth seems a bit extreme, try
increasing the size slowly, a bit at a time over a period of a few weeks, so you
can get used to it. Using a softer red will help to keep your lips from looking
too showgirl. The type of red you use can be coordinated with your skin tone and
your clothing (more peach or more raspberry); have fun playing with lipstick.
It’s fun, to mix your own color by using several different lipsticks on top of
each other. Try putting a neutral light pink shade on top of a deeper red.
Taping
You may want to tape to get rid of your nasal- labial fold, overhanging
eyelid or double chin. However it is not ideal for all daywear. Taping is
wonderful on some people. It depends on how elastic your skin is and whether you
can place the tape so it will get rid of the fold and not show under the wig.
It's important that the wig hide the tape, because it's very difficult to cover
tape with makeup so it doesn't show. However, sometimes just a wisp of hair from
the wig will cover the tape so you don't have to pull the wig to far onto your
face. The easiest way to tape, is to securely pin a stocking cap to cover your
hair. I like to be sure there are several pin curls at the front of your
hairline. This gives you something to anchor the wig to so it doesn't slip back
and allows you to tape onto your head without pulling hair. Johnson & Johnson
surgical tape works wonderfully. The more complicated way is to use strips of
silk gauze and spirit gum them to your skin, and anchor the other end to the wig
cap. Experiment to see which you prefer. They are both susceptible to
perspiration, so are better suited to occasional use not all daywear.
From: alt.fashion.crossdressing
JoAnn Roberts CDS Bookstand <www.cdspub.com>.
Since 1985, "Art & Illusion: A Guide to Crossdressing"
has been sold all over the world.
A&I, Volume 1 -- Face &
Hair: tells you all about hair & makeup and how to reshape your face with
cosmetics to appear more feminine.
A&I, Volume 2 -- Fashion & Style: helps you
figure out the proper size and styles of clothing that will flatter your body.
It also tells you how to alter your body's shape for that girlish figure. You
can't take your computer to the makeup table, but you can take these books that
have helped thousands of girls achieve their dreams. Stop by the CDS Bookstand
www.cdspub.com and check out the varied selection of available How-To and
Self-Help books and videos.
You'll find you need all that stuff (makeup) too <g>. IAE,
there are a few discrete ways to find out what makeup you need, how to apply it,
and best of all--what'll look good on you. Just visit the Ask Covergirl! Site
at
http://www.covergirl.com/ there
are a lot of other makeup sites on the Internet, but this one seems to provide
more information
than some of the others--at least when it comes to figuring
out what makeup will look best on you.
There are some other sites you'll want to visit to get some
application tips. For example,
http://www.best.com/~cdserv/makeup.htm will tell you how to get rid of that
blue tinge from your beard. Visit Cosmetic Connection at
http://www.kleinman.com/cosmetic/ if you want to learn more about makeup.
For example, what a makeup contains and how can you get free samples. This site
also has a cosmetic advisor FAQ which you may find useful. The Cosmetic
Resources site at
http://www.users.wineasy.se/bjornt/world.html is a good place to find links
to just about anything you'll need for makeup.
From gretchen@centuryinter.net Tue Sep 22 13:03:02
1998 wrote: >
- In need of make-up advise, starting with the basics.
Find a copy of; "Art and Illusion, a guide for the cross dresser". It starts
from the premise that you don't know a foundation from mascara. It explains
everything so even an absolute beginner can understand. It also covers the
tools and how to use them.
- During this season, you can call a Mary Kay or other
person that sells cosmetics and tell her you plan to go out on Halloween and
need some advice. This is a plan if you are still in the closet.
- When I was learning, I went to Sam's club. I bought a
makeup kit for $19.95 that had 87 different items including; 4 lipsticks,
powder, blushers, mascara, under-eye concealers, blemish covers, eye shadow,
nail polish and brushes. I never wore it when I went out, but it let me
practice and experiment inexpensively.
- Look at 17 and teen fashion magazines for tips and hints
for beginners.
- Try drawing a face and putting the steps in 1, 2, 3,
etc.; Like a paint by number kit. When you finish on yourself, make notes on
the drawing for next time.
- After you have experimented a time or two, you can look
at women in public and understand what they have done to their own faces.
Take care of your skin. Never leave makeup on
overnight. You can vary the following sequence somewhat, but do have a
plan you follow consistently. Make changes like plucking eyebrows before you
start. This is just the way I do it. I am sure others do it differently.
Different lighting creates a need for different techniques. This is not the
everyday routine, but for those special nights out. It is not meant to be
all-inclusive but a basic guideline for beginners.
2.
I use a product called Ultimate Hair Away from Victoria Bodyworks; find
them using Yahoo. I had the kind of beard that grows fast. I could shave, as
close as I could and by the time I was finished with my makeup the ends of
whiskers would be poking through the foundation. Ultimate Hair Away is a product
designed to slow hair growth.
3.
Moisturize
4.
Smear orange lipstick over the "blue" shaded areas of your beard. Orange
neutralizes the color blue and will hide the shadow. Use a big fluffy brush and
dust the orange lipstick with loose powder. This "sets" the makeup and keeps it
from mixing with the next layers.
5.
Foundation. This should match the skin tone as closely as possible. I use
Max Factor. It comes in a little pump bottle. I put a bit on the tip of my
finger and put little spots over my neck, face and forehead. I like a sheer
cover. I use a foam wedge dipped in water to smooth the spots of foundation. It
helps if you use vertical upward strokes. Work it over the whole face including
the lips. When the foundation is smooth and even, your face will be one even
tone. You will now "paint a face" on the foundation. I do my eyes first. They
are the most difficult and if I mess up, starting over is less of a job. Don't
dress till the makeup is on. Sitting in lingerie or a big fluffy bathrobe adds
to the experience.
6.
Under-eye concealer. Looks like lipstick. If needed for dark circles
under the eyes, preferably yellow tone.
7.
Eye shadow. There are different fashions and they vary for different eye
shapes.
8.
Eyeliner. There are pencils; pens or liquid applied with little
paintbrushes. I am lousy at eyeliner. I mess up this step more often than all
the other steps put together. If you have hints, let me know.
9.
Mascara
10.
Blusher. Application depends on shape of your face. In general, the area
covered is from the bottom of the nose, outward of the pupil of the eye and
sweeps up toward the temple. Now that everything is in place, blend, blend,
blend, blend, blend. Use the little foam wedges. You should not be able to tell
where any one of the products stops and the next begins. Use lots of light
strokes with the wedge to smooth and even out all the shades of color.
11.
Loose powder to match skin tone. Get a big fluffy makeup brush. Dip the
brush into the powder then hold it handle down and tap it on the table to shift
some of the powder deeper into the fibers. Apply, using a dabbing motion, don't
brush across the skin. This step "sets" the make up and will keep it in place.
12.
Lip liner pencil, a bit darker than the lipstick you will be using.
Changing fashion tastes may change this recommendation. You can play with
changing the shape of your lips by application inside or outside of the original
lip line.
13.
Lipstick. Fill inside of the lip liner border. The book recommends using
a small brush to apply it to your lips and not just put it on straight from the
stick. I tried the brush a few times. Now I just put it on from the tube. When
the lipstick is on, press a single layer tissue on the lips. Then use the loose
powder brush to apply powder and set the lipstick. Peel the tissue off and
admire your work. Drink through a straw, not from the glass.
14.
There are many variations and techniques for "sculpting" the look using
light and dark shading. Use a white or light concealer in a T shape, above the
eyebrows across the forehead and straight down the nose. Lighten the "Howdy
Doody" lines from the nose to the sides of the mouth. Use a little darker eye
shadow on the sides of the nose to create a "shadowed" area and make the nose
look smaller.
15.
Blend, blend, blend, blend, blend.
16.
Use Noxzema to remove the makeup. Rub it in and it all dissolves and can
be washed off. You can do touch up removal using diaper wipes/ wet wipes.
Tools and supplies needed. Good mirror and
lighting, good brushes, moisturizer, foundation, eye shadow, eye liner, mascara,
blusher, lip liner, lip stick, loose powder and Noxzema. Use this as a basic
list. Pressed powder and puff can be used instead of loose powder. I carry
pressed powder in my makeup kit in my purse for touch ups during the evening.
Also carry lipstick and a little blusher/ eye shadow compact.
*MAC Studio Full Coverage Cream*
This is not the Studio Fix powder foundation I have
mentioned in the past, but a full coverage cream makeup that MAC designed for
film and TV use. At first I was afraid the finish would be thick and unnatural,
but it's actually very easy to use, easy to
control the coverage, and looks like your own skin, not
makeup. This product is NOT oil-free (has jojoba oil), but I had no acne
problems whatsoever, and was really pleased with the texture on my normal-to-dry
skin. This is also the first makeup I've tried that looks better when applied
with your fingers than with a sponge. Just a small dab on the areas you want to
cover blends easily and has excellent coverage. If you use it under your eyes
for dark circles, just be sure to add a light dusting of
loose powder so the makeup doesn't crease. (In case you are wondering, I wear
NC15 in the new color scheme.) As an added "bonus", it also has SPF 15 sun
protection from titanium dioxide (2%) and octyl ethoxycinnamate (5%).
RuPaul
I soak for a good fifteen minutes before beginning to shave. I then take my
loofah sponge and scrub my skin. The skin must be very clean and supple, with
every pore exfoliated, every dead skin cell removed before I can begin the
process.
Having a Mohawk for years as a teenager, I'm a virtuoso with the disposable
razor and I go in a row like a farmer with his crops. From the front to the
back, and my sideburns to the nape of my neck. Girl, after that, I lather my
chest, stomach, and bikini line and shave it all off. If the goddess is to
reveal herself during a photo shoot, she MUST be smooth. Don't forget the
eyebrows girl, and remove any leftover stubble.
MAKEUP GIRL!
If you're a performer getting your photos taken, you have to make yourself up
in the brightest light possible ok? `cuz those cameras will show EVERYTHING.
Have the light coming at you from the top of the mirror just above your head.
Apply a light moisturizer. Now understand this honey.... you wouldn't build a
good building without some good foundation. It's the same with your face. SLAP
IT ON THICK. You are NOT a real woman. Cake it on honey. I use Mac STUDIO Makeup
N7. Not only does it give the full coverage I need, it is totally cruelty free
and has NOT been tested on animals--other than men. Be sure to use your right
color. Use an expensive sponge girl. Cheap ones crumble.
Cakin' the surface on...
While your makeup is still wet, you can then apply Mac STUDIO makeup N3 (or
whatever color is the same tone but a tad lighter) and highlight the areas you
want to bring forward like under your eyes, out to your cheekbones, the bridge
of your nose....ya know. Do the same with a base that is a tad darker and put it
under your neck, under the cheekbones, etc. Contour your nose with this and
skinny the appearance -- a' la Michael Jackson ok?
My eyes! My eyes!
Honey, you're eyes are the key to your soul. What your eyes and brows show,
your photographer's see. They show every emotion. So do them good. Or you'll be
a disaster. I don't want Cher to see me with bad lookin' eyes, so I always make
sure my foundation works and then I think, ``Beautiful eyes, glamorous eyes..."
Say it to yourself now.... and begin.
Draw your brows in a darker shade than the foundation. Shape them nicely. You
want Diva brows honey. Not low and not too high. If you make a mistake, wipe
them off and reapply the makeup and start again. If you did this after you'd
powdered...girl you'd be up a creek.
Eyebrows are hard. Look at your face the way a makeup artist would. Draw the
brows in a nice arch with a cute sharp point on the end. Don't make them round
and don't make them pencil-brows. Or you'll end up lookin' like a snaggle-toothed
hag, a look I've found useful in the past. But for glamour girl, it doesn’t
work. So draw carefully. Translucent powder over it when you're done and they
look perfect. `Cuz now you've got your eyes to do
Take some light vanilla eye shadow and put it over the inside of your inner
lid and close to the nose on the outer brow. Shadow the outer creases of your
eyes, not toward your nose...toward your temples. You want to bring the eyes
out. Blend nicely but not too much. Curl your lashes! and mascara them. Apply
your liquid eyeliner and THEN apply your false eyelashes. Use a dark tone
eyelash adhesive `cuz it dries black. And girl, experiment. Color is the key and
the rainbow ain't there for nothin' so use it. Mood...remember moods.
If you've got a question about your eyes or need more information on tuckin'
girl...'cuz I ain't givin' that out fo' free online, check out ma' book ``Lettin'
it All Hang Out". Click here to find out how to grab a copy.
Lips
Girl. Lips. It's all about the lips. And let me tell you. There are some
GREAT lips out there. So be prepared for some fierce competition. The wrong lip
color can make or break your look. Kinda like your hair.
First you should look in the mirror and repeat to yourself, ``I have
beautiful lips." Whether you've got duck lips, gorilla lips, no lips, or lips
the size of Godzilla, you should ALWAYS say this honey. It's imperative.
Remember, mood affects everything.
To start your lips, take a brown eyebrow pencil and ``perfect" the lip line,
improving on nature's own handiwork by going a little bit over the top, because
the top lip on many queens tend to disappear when you smile. Then apply your
lipstick. Use a lip brush and even out the color.
Smile Honey!
That's just the start. You should blot with some powder at this point to give
the lips a matte finish. Apply a lighter tone to the inside of your lip to bring
out the look. You want to look pouty. Like Miss Marilyn or Bardot. It's all
about the classics girl.
Whenever you draw your lips or, for that matter, any part of your face, it's
a good idea to hold a piece of tissue or makeup resistant paper to your cheek so
as not to mess up any color you have already applied. This is great when you're
drawing your lips. So pucker up Girla!
Wig/hair
If you think the photographer's can't tell you're wearin' a wig, think again
honey. Your wig/hair is the ultimate finishing to your Queen-ness. You can have
a big wig, you can choose a small wig....but please, choose the right wig.
Carefully select the right shape and size for your head. You don't wanna look
like Uma Thurman wearin' a Diana Ross wig. Ok?
NEVER put the dress on AFTER the wig. Whether it's an Oldham, Gucci,
whatever.... PUT YOUR DRESS ON FIRST GIRL! You don't want to knock that stuff
off yo' head after you've spent so much time puttin' it on. Ok? Good. Here we
go.
I'm ready for my wig lovely.
A cat without its coat would look pretty freaky, and a peacock without its
feathers would look downright ugly. So be careful.
If you can afford it...wait...you MUST buy a lace-front wig. They’re
expensive...but any queen is worth it. Lace-front wigs have a transparent mesh
that's like netting. It's invisible to the eye and once it's on you can't see
the line. To secure it, you put a little glue on the sideburns of your
head--although for the glue to stick you have to take off the makeup from those
areas first.
Carry your wig around in a nice large case. I use a kick-drum carrying case.
It's got tons of room to spare. And remember, style your wig a bit before you
put it on. Anything large should be styled first and then retouched once it's
on. Girl is ready to go!
Wear what
makes you look like a Diva...not a dog.
You can sure mess up your whole creation by sticking some cheap dress you got
from the local 1$ shop across the street all over yourself. But that's not for
every 1$ dress of course. Damn, some 1$ dresses can look mighty fine if you work
them the right way. The point is...anything can look good if you make it look
good.
Choose a dress and accessories that match your look. Are you going for a
night on the town look or a summer's day look? Blonde wig? or red wig? `Cuz
girl, you wear that green bracelet with that Red wig and purple lipstick. I’ll
smack ya myself. Just be sure to choose something clean, gorgeous, and fitting.
There's nothing worse than watching a drag queen limp around the room in a Gucci
that's a tad too tight. Remember, fashion is supposed to bring out what's
already beautiful in ya, not paint it all gross.
And above all dear, love yourself. `Cuz if you don't love yourself, how in
the hell you gonna love anyone else? Can I get an amen in here! All right, now
run to Saks honey. And spend spend spend! And grab my book too. It's essential
in every queen's purse.
Rants and
Raves!
By Jenelle Rose
8/5/98
with updates
Copyright © 1998-2006 [Jenelle Rose]. All rights
reserved.
I’d
like to talk fashion and make up, my favorite subjects! I'm going to turn
you on to some of my favorite magazines, TV shows and web sites and more. If
anyone has anything to add, please e-mail me at
jenelle@jenellerose.com.
As you know,that’s genetic
girls have all of their lives to develop their fashion sense, style and
practice applying their makeup. For cross dressers those getting
a very late start, we can use all the help we can get!
Here is the scoop on how to get you up
to speed quickly. Soon, you too will have the "look" -and that will be
outstanding!
Getting
Started
Videos
First off, there is a video I’d like
to turn you on to. Found at discount drug stores, it is Cosmopolitan’s 20-minute
makeover. This video is a very good
introduction to technique. There are sections not only for the face but also
hair and pumping up its volume. It sells for $10.00 and comes with a money-back
coupon for other products that more than make up for the price of the tape.
Otherwise, run down to your library and ask them to help you find some videos on
make up or other make overs. Another video
is "The Eyes Have it" with Donna Mills and CDS online carries
booklets by Joanne Roberts.
Magazines
Found at local grocery markets as well
as drug stores, are magazines targeted at the youth market, filled with basic
information that if you are just starting out, are a treasure trove of great tips
and technique.
Books
While at the library checking on the
videos mentioned above, check out (no pun intended) magazines
such as Glamour, Cosmopolitan, Redbook and Mademoiselle. They are favorites of
women and reading them you will see why. They are packed every month with useful
information.
Another one of my
favorites is Allure magazine, a bit more on the heavier side of makeup which of
course is my main interest whereas the others tend to focus more on fashion or
who is braking up with whom. Allure is always full of good tips for makeup and fashion,
the magazine is a bit skimpy on the other things but
otherwise consistent in the info area.
Television
One of
my favorite channels to watch is the Style
network. They have several fashion shows. The
shows include Model TV, Video Fashion, Fashion Emergency and Fashion File among
several others. Fashion File has a traveling host who might be in Milan for one
segment and in New York for another, covering primarily the runway scene,
including the backstage! There is talk and "quick, on the spot"
style interviews on fashion materials, trends and colors.
Another show that features makeovers
along these lines that is similar to, but involving regular people airs on the
Lifetime cable network ("Television for Women"). It airs at about 7:00 PM.
A show about the runway scene
and fashion can be found on
CNN. Go to their web site and download their schedule even view on-line, video files
from their vast archives.
I am fortunate to be in the cosmetics business as
being an insider I am exposed to fashion and makeup trends long before they
arrive. This allows me to select the colors and experiment even before my
customers begin asking for them and I then can show what these new trends
mean to the customer!
Internet
A great site for models is The Fashion Directory at
http://www.fashion.tripnet.se/index.htm.
http://www.VictoriaSecret.com
The basics of applying makeup,
advice columns and many other interesting articles and FAQ’s mainly dealing
in make up
http://www.kleinman.com
Some manufacturer’s web
sites:
Clinique-
http://www.clinique.com/
L'Oreal Cosmetics-
http://www.lorealcosmetics.com/
Covergirl-
http://www.covergirl.com/
Freeman Cosmetics-
http://www.freemancosmetics.com/
Revlon-
http://www.revlon.com/
OneHanesPlace (Hane's, L'eggs, Bali,
Wonderbra and more-
http://www.onehanesplace.com/
Fashion sites:
Firstview-
http://www.firstview.com/
Beautybuzz-
http://www.beautybuzz.com/toc.asp
Magazines
Allure Magazine-
http://www.allure.com/
Lumiere Magazine - Fashion | Beauty |
Style-
http://www.lumiere.com/
Jenelle Rose
Copyright © 1998-2006
[Jenelle Rose]. All rights reserved.


Q&A
Q: Hi,
I have used drugstore cosmetics until now (mostly Revlon), but this week I
figured it was time to move up! So, which brand do I look into? I
remembered that my ex-girlfriend (one of the few young women I ever met that
used to put on FULL makeup) swore by Clinique... she also loved Mac for colors &
shades.
Clinique is particularly good if skincare is an issue as well, with good
cleansers, foundations and powders. So, I visited their website, which
has online ordering. They even have a very simplistic "consultation" set-up
where they ask you some skin & colors questions to give you recommendations...
It's at
http://www.clinique.com
The products are definitely more expensive... generally 2x to 3x the cost
of Revlon, Maybelline, etc.
My ex also used to say that Chanel lipstick was the BEST... good color &
great lasting power...
Tina
MAC makes very good lipsticks (shadows too)
because they are so rich in pigments!
Prescriptives, Clinique and Lancôme are also great! Anything French, actually is
good.
Better drug store (read bargain) brands include
L'Oreal (Lancôme's own "budget" brand), Revlon and Cover Girl.
I use Cetaphil cleansers and lotions recommended by
dermatologists. They are gentle cleansers which don't have the lard-type ingredients
most ALL bar soaps have, which can
cause pore clogging.
Jenelle Rose
Q: Have you ever tried Derma-Blend or Cover
Mark? I had a friend recommend Derma-Blend to me, but found it was pretty
expensive.
Ginny
Q: I have seen the book "Don't go to the cosmetics counter without me," by
Paula Begoun. Looking thru it at the store it seemed to be totally for GG's. We
must read between the lines, I take it!
Thanks again
Ginny
They made primarily for women, although be
aware that many males use these products for "legitimate" reasons.
These particular
products I mentioned from Clinique and MAC are matt,
extra coverage foundations I suggested
as alternatives to Derma Blend or theatrical make up as better,
lesser-known choices used mainly for beard cover
as in Television
make up, for example.
The book you mentioned and others that are
written for women can be just as easily be applied to men.
Jenelle Rose
Copyright Notice:
All Photographs and Text on this site are Copyright © 1998/2006
by Jenelle Rose or by the respective site/page owners
referenced or hyper linked by this site. Reproduction in any form is strictly
prohibited without the written consent of the copyright owners. Commercial use
is not allowed.
8/18/2003
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