Makeup

On this page, learn a better understanding of health, beauty, cosmetics and the details on the latest trends in beauty!

Whether you are a beginner or searching for advanced technique, you will find it here, including how to buy, apply, remove make up and put together a nicer, better you!

These pages give tips for males and females. Check back often, as these pages will be updated and give ever more information and more details! Browse around and grab a few ideas and if you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask!

Always start with moisturizers, unless your foundation already has moisturizers built-in. Also prep your lips! If you are a teenager, you do not need to wear foundation at all, in fact you are likely suffering from acne breakout. Do not pop these and do not use products that are drying; you are only making the problem worse!

Anytime you use makeup girls, always make sure you wash your face at night and moisturize before going to bed!

Another key to great looking makeup is a good scrub. Not to the point of redness or causing damage or drying if you have dry or sensitive skin but a good scrub makes for a great start because a clean face makes a great foundation to work with and comes through to the end. You never want to put too much product on, you want the skin to come through instead.

Skin type is normal but with an increasingly drier T-zone. Crow's feet, smile lines, creases in forehead, lines around the lips, bags under the eyes and sun damage (age spots) are much more evident. The skin no longer rebounds as quickly as it used to, therefore extreme weight gains or losses begin to show up on your face.

Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle facial cleansers, lightweight eye crèmes and moisturizers. Use of alpha hydroxy acid products and a retinol product will speed up skin's cell turnover and deliver a fresher, healthier glow to your skin. There are also prime and prep products I use when I do makeup I can recommend. Some of these actually feel in the lines and feel silky. I would keep the use of AHA products to a minimum, if used at all. Do not use these on dry skin.

Your skin is much drier than in years past. Flare ups of adult acne may be common. Wrinkles and sagging become more dramatic. Cell turnover decreases by almost half.

Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle facial cleansers (possibly those that are cream-based). You may want to try using heavier moisturizers, but stay with light weight eye crèmes to prevent eye cream overkill. I like the Cetaphil brand of lotions and cleansers.

Makeup Primer:

Makeup- First Steps:

Although there are variations to applying things like lipstick and eye shadow, putting on basic makeup like foundation and concealer are easy!

Always start with a clean, moisturized face. Then apply foundation so skin looks even. If you use a powder-based, two-in-one style foundation, you can skip right to your color cosmetics. You don't need extra concealer or powder.

Your second step, if you have any areas that weren't covered by your foundation and need extra attention, like dark undereye circles, blemishes, red spots, or broken capillaries, is where concealer comes in. Apply it with your fingers, a clean sponge, or a makeup brush in gentle, dabbing strokes and then tap carefully with your fingertip around the edges to blend. You can also apply concealer to your eye lids for a really smooth look. It will even out any blotchy skintone and will help your eye shadow stay on longer.

The third step is powder. Even dry skin can benefit from the right powder because it sets your makeup for longer wear through the day or night. I like loose powder better than pressed because the finish is lighter. Apply it lightly with a large powder brush, making sure to dust a little under your eyes to set your concealer (helps prevent creasing).

With your basic makeup finished, the rest is really up to your own preference. Here are a few guidelines:

For eye makeup, apply your shadows first, then liner, then mascara. The mascara will seal in any eye shadow that falls on your lashes and actually make them look thicker

Apply your blush after foundation and eye makeup so you can adjust the intensity of the color to suit the rest of your face.

Lip liner can come either before or after lipstick depending on your needs. If you like having an outline to fill in, apply liner first and then lipstick - just make sure to blend the edges with a lipbrush or cotton swab so you don't have an obvious line. If you feel confident with applying lipstick, I recommend putting your lipstick on first, then liner. I find the colors last longer this way and it tends to look more polished.

To keep your brows from looking fake and overly made-up, always use small, light strokes of brow color so it looks more like hair than a dark line.

Simple eye makeup can really bring out your eyes, and you don't need six different shadows to do it. For everyday, use one lid color, one highlight, and one liner color (shadow or pencil depending on your preference) at most. If you pick neutral shades like browns, grays, and plums, you can actually create several different looks from just the three.

Choose an eye shadow lid color that will really bring out your eyes, think about the color wheel, choosing complementary colors, those opposite each other on the wheel, give you the most contrast and make each color stand out.

For example:If you have brown eyes, shades of blue, blue gray, and plum will make your eyes stand out

If you have green eyes, choose shades of pink, salmon, mauve, and brownish-pink to make the green look greener.

If you have blue eyes, shades of brown, camel, and taupe will make the blue appear even more blue.

For highlight and liner, stick with neutral colors like beige or soft yellow for highlight and deep brown, navy, or charcoal for liner. Now you're ready to apply!

Lid Color
Since the lid color is going to be the focal point of your eye makeup, the part that makes your eyes stand out the most, use a good eye shadow brush and a good quality shadow that is soft, blends easily, and won't crease. Applying eye shadow isn't tricky, just remember these tips:

Highlight
Highlighting is the easiest step in eye makeup. Using a small eye shadow brush, pick up a bit of your light color with the brush, tap off any excess, and apply to the area just under your eye brows. You should be able to cover it in one sweep. Now, clean off the brush on a piece of tissue and use the cleaned brush to blend the highlighter color down into the edge of the lid color so there's no obvious line. I really use a highlight color more as a blending and softening color rather than adding more color to your eyes.

Using the eye shadow color you've chosen for your lid, swipe your brush across the color a few times, tap off the excess, then apply the shadow across your lid in small strokes. Don't get too close to the crease or to your brow bone, since that's where the highlighter goes.

Liner
Personally, I don’t like using pencils. Pencils can drag, smear, cake, and leave blobs on your eyelid that fall into the eye. Using a dark eye shadow, which lasts a long time in a color like deep brown, black, navy, or charcoal and a liner brush with fairly stiff bristles, you can get the same defining effect as a pencil.

Wet the brush twirl it into the shadow, trying it on your wrist a few times till the consistency is right before putting it to your eye then draw a thin line as close to the base of your lashes as possible. Make sure to start at the inside corner of your eye and work all the way out to the outer corner. You can work in short strokes if it's easier, rather than trying to draw one long line. Line only the top lid or do both the top and lower the very same way if you like. Experiment to see which "look" suits the shape of your eyes.

Basic Makeup Technique, an Overview

Eye gloss is the newest trend. It adds a sheer shine to lids, but don't try it unless you know you can carry it off -- it can look greasy and inappropriate.

White, pink and yellow eyeliner pencils tend to make the eye look open and brighter. Blue counteracts redness, and black will give you a sultry look.

In order to make eyeliner easy to apply, manufacturers sometimes make it so creamy it doesn't stay put. You can use a matching eyeshadow or powder to set your eyeliner.

Practice your application and blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of color. Remember, lighter colors bring things forward and highlight, dark colors recede and add depth and shading.

Eyeliner
Position the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lash line along the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.
Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a less-intense color than the upper liner. As a general rule, the larger the eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.

Eyeliner smudging is inevitable. The eyes are naturally moist, and moisture along with laughing, blinking, sneezing and rubbing our eyes ruins makeup! Avoid using too much moisturizer around the eye; it will travel and convert liner into mush. Not a bad look in a sultry rock-star way, but probably not what you're going for. Try an eye gel in lieu of eye cream. Look for one that absorbs quickly and be sure to give it 10 of minutes to absorb.

Using a Q-tip, trace a line of neutral-colored matte powder or eye shadow around the circumference of the eye as a base on which you'll place the eyeliner.

Eyebrows
Color should match your brows, not your hair color or use what color you think would already exist but for some age factor or another reason. Apply a powder brow color or shadow for best results with a stiff wedge brush with short swift strokes in the direction the hair naturally grows. Do not over exaggerate the shape of the brow by arching or going for “trendy looks”.

Mascara
Use of a lash curler is recommended. It makes you look more awake, adds glamour and makes your lashes look much longer. It is best to use a good brand such as the Tweeserman and only use them it on clean lashes, before you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure for about 10-12 seconds about two to three times at different points to even results and not get a crimped look. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping strokes, holding your upper lip up with the other hand’s index finger. Be sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. A metal mascara comb works best between coats to remove clumping and give definition. To add Power and thickness, dip a clean Q-into some powder and onto the lashes and then reapply mascara.

Without returning wand to tube, apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of the wand).

Lipstick and Lip Liner
A Lip brush or pencil is optional. Use a lip pencil to draw an edge when applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.
Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it almost always looks like a mistake.
Good brushes are essential for applying makeup:

Use soft, pliable brushes. Avoid hard or stiff brushes. Today’s colors are almost to delicate for stiff brushes anymore.

Use brushes that are the correct size for the area you are working on. Avoid brushes too large or too small.

Remember to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color to your face.

Brush on the color gently with short even strokes; avoid wiping or rubbing the brush across the face.

Helpful Makeup Hints:

It is a good idea to have a cosmetic mirror with magnification and on this cosmetic mirror, have attached an additional 10x mirror for ultra close-up work to see liner, pores, brows, etc. with yourself ideally able to use natural lighting and in front of another mirror, such as a dresser. Also have at this location a small quiet, clip-on fan directed at you from in front of but not on while working with loose powder or mascara.

Before you start and after you are finished, wash your hands. One of the last things you will do is your hair. The foundation goes into or at least to the the hairline.

Go to the other articles in this website for steps pertaining to moisturizing, application and so on. I will get into other areas here, like for example lipstick. L’Oreal has a new endless lipstick that can be bought with or without gloss, so buy one with and one or two without. They are fantastic because they really do last pretty well without the dryness of others. By the way, the trend in lips this year is RED.

You can get Sally Hansen’s lip sealant and turn any regular lipstick into a longer lasting one but there is a strong after-taste with it. I would recommend a lip balm before the application of any lipstick letting it absorb (10 minutes, if possible) before applying color and don’t be afraid to use your fingers to pat it into the lips! Lightly powdering will also provide more staying power as well. Powder works wonders between applications of Mascara too. Use an old but clean Mascara wand for this trick, dipped into your powder; a Q-Tip will also do but use carefully.

There are many types of foundation, even in liquid types. If you have smooth skin, then you have the options of tinted moisturizers, Mac’s Hyper Real, as well as more matt-type liquids and the paste types like Mac Studio Fix, the latter works great with an orange lip stick rubbed into the palm of the hand or a very small amount of orange pigment to counter the effect of blue beard cover for males and makes a "clean" face to pass as female. Use a Gillette Mach 3 razor for a close shave along with Gillette’s gel for Women/”sensitive skin” (it just smells better).

Be careful about using any kind of shimmer with older skin and especially around the eyes (lids). You do not want to draw attention to this area if you have creases. Otherwise, shimmer is good. There are several stores such as Sephora which carry brands such as Becca which make a Shimmer you can use all over that an SPF of 27 and are available in a flesh tone. I use it on faces to give a warm glow. I have also used Mac’s Hyper Real combined with their Vanilla pigment and Clinique’s “Magic”, all for a shimmer effect, especially nice in the Spring. Closely related is new glimmer that Mac just put out that is safe to use around the eyes but beware what you put around yours.

Things to have on hand and within reach are cotton balls, sponge applicator, Q-tips, a sharpener and it would be nice if you could have your brushes laid out in front of you in the order you use them such as foundation, concealer, powder, bronzer, contour, finishing, lip, shadow, liner, mascara, perfume, hair, etc.

Your products could also be organized like that as well: moisturizer, foundation, concealer, powder, bronzer, etc.

What has saved me many times and will I pass along to you, is to make a short, itemized checklist of what needs to be done and keep it in sight. This list would include things like perfume, earrings, necklace, lipstick, blush, bronzer, rings, watch, etc. Your own list may include more or less. The idea here is that it saves you time and you don’t forget anything before you leave the house or in this case the makeup dresser!

Getting a Better Deal:

Cosmetic companies often make pretty lofty claims about what their products can do. So many of them promise the sun, moon and stars, but those results often are just not possible (like "re-training" the skin to act differently, making pores physically smaller, and magically erasing wrinkles, just to name a few). We all want to look our best, so we get sucked in and start to believe that a miracle cream or potion might really exist - it doesn't.

Having said that, there are plenty of good quality skin care and makeup choices at the drugstore that are just as effective (just ignore the hype) as department store brands for a lot less money.

Foundation can be a little tricky if there are no testers to try the colors on your skin, but there are still some great products to be found. Try to shop somewhere that will let you exchange your purchase for another color if necessary. You can also bring a favorite foundation you currently use from another brand to the drugstore and compare colors.

Lipstick is an easy winner at the drugstore - the prices are so much lower than dept. store brands that you can afford to try new colors and textures. Many of the products are even practically identical to department store brands; for instance, Lancôme and L'Oreal are owned by the same company and have many similar skin care products.

Remember a basic cosmetic rule - you don't always get what you pay for! With a little comparison shopping, you'll find some great, inexpensive products at the drugstore that work just as well or better than high priced department store lines. I wanted to include an article about getting makeup brushes from art supply stores but there simply was not enough room in this issue to print it, maybe next time….

Foundation:

Foundation is one of the most important steps in your makeup routine. It can make your skin look its best, even if you're having a less-than-perfect skin day. Whether you like sheer, medium, or full coverage, there are

With so many different brands and formulas out there, choosing a foundation that's right for you can be a real challenge. To find the right formula, and the right color, you need to know your skin. Are you oily? Dry? Only oily in spots? Sensitive? Normal? Knowing your skin type helps eliminate foundation formulas that aren't designed for your skin type.

For instance, if you have very dry skin that has flaky patches, a powder foundation will only make you feel drier, and it will accentuate any dry, flaky skin on your face. A liquid foundation with emollient ingredients like plant oils is a better choice for dry skin.

For Normal Skin, you can use pretty much anything that suits your taste. Experiment with liquids, creams, powders, and sticks to see what you, and your skin, like the best. Powder foundations are the easiest to use on normal skin and always look great. Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jawline for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear).

Testing your skin: Wash your face and an hour later press a tissue against your T-zone (forehead, nose), then inspect the tissue.

Liquids
Thanks to advanced technology and a wider selection of colors, today's foundations can make your skin look fresher and more radiant than ever before. The color selections are better than ever too, with more choices in light and dark tones as well as more yellow-based colors.

Powder and Cream-to-Powder
Today's selection of these foundations are a great alternative to liquid. They give a smooth, even finish in a few strokes, and they are totally portable for easy touch-ups.

Stick
For those of us who like quick, simplified makeup, stick foundations are worth considering, especially for drier skin. They are easy to apply and can be used all over, or just as concealer for dark circles, on eyelids as eye shadow base - wherever!

Concealer:

Concealer in a shade that matches your skintone can really help with dark circles, red areas or veins, blemishes, freckles, or anything else you want to cover.

For blemishes, you want a stick or thicker cream formula with a smooth finish that doesn't look cakey or thick. These usually work best because of their staying power. Apply with a small, clean makeup brush, dabbing a small amount on the blemish until it is covered. Use a gentle touch and do not rub or over-blend. Once covered, apply a thin layer of loose powder to "lock" it in.

For everything else, including dark undereye circles, spider veins, small freckles, or whatever you want to hide, choose from a variety liquid to cream to stick.

As with blemishes, the harder the spot is to cover, the more precise and gentle you'll want to be with your application. For severe undereye circles (dark blue or purple), a medium weight cream tends to stay put and resist creasing better than a liquid. Apply the concealer only to the very dark areas, and blend gently with a few finger taps.

I like using a semi-creamy product applied with a small makeup brush for just about everything, but you might find a liquid with a sponge applicator is your favorite. Make sure that any concealer you buy is a shade or two lighter than your skin color when used with foundation, especially around the eyes and always be sure to blend.

Getting Color with Blush:

One of the easiest ways to get that healthy color is with blush; however, blush is the one product that is most commonly misused. How many times have you seen a woman with a bright pink or peach streak on her cheeks that is supposed to be blush but looks more like racing stripes or is too bright? Applying blush the right way is easy. Here's how:

If your blush came with one of those little compact size blush brushes, throw it away or use it for eye shadow. Those brushes are too small and the bristles aren't shaped properly to apply the color in a natural looking way. You need one that's fairly full and round, with tapered sides for better blending. I personally use MAC's #135 because its soft bristles and rounded shape apply the color very softly for a subtle look.

Don't try to reshape your face with blush and contour colors. You can accentuate your face and your cheeks naturally by just smiling. Smile, and you'll see the apple of your cheeks (the fleshy part that stands out the most), which is the exact spot to put your blush. Swipe your brush across your blush, then tap the excess blush off before you apply it to your face. Don't blow on the bristles or you'll introduce bacteria from your mouth onto the brush.

Now that the brush has a light layer of blush on it, apply it to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

Your blush should enhance your face and the rest of your makeup, not compete with it. If you are wearing red lipstick, don't wear peach or bronze blush.

For the most natural looking makeup, try to keep all your colors either warm (think peach) or cool (think pink). If you aren't sure what blush color will look best on your skin, just look at your cheeks after you've been exercising, like running. That color is your natural blush color, so keep that color in mind when you are shopping.

Always, take your makeup off at night. To get it off fast, try a couple of squirts of Cetaphil’s daily facial cleanser into the palm done a couple times, followed by multiple rinsings, followed by Cetaphil’s moisturizing lotion, a great combination.

Something will still be left behind like mascara, eyeliner and traces of longwearing foundations or lipsticks. For the cleanest clean, consider adding an all-purpose makeup remover to your nightly routine. For eyes, Beauty Without Cruelty Extra Gentle Eye Makeup Remover with extra gentle cleansers remove every trace of eye makeup with no stinging, burning, or oiliness.

Remove all your makeup in one sweep with no water and no hassle with Lancome Eau de Bienfait or BeneFit Clean Sweep. Both brands are non-oily, gentle to eyes and effective on everything from water-resistant mascara to caked-on concealer.

Estee Lauder has Eye and Lip Makeup Remover for LongWear Formulas. I've been less than thrilled however with some other brands' removers, like Clinique Take The Day Off (painful stinging) and Avon Perfect Wear Makeup Remover (really oily).

Technique

Part one is female techniques, part two below, provides information specific to male to female transformation type of make up.

Part One: FEMALE MAKEUP OR MAKEOVER

Practice your application and blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of color. Remember, lighter colors bring things forward and highlight, dark colors recede and add depth and shading.

Eyeliner
Position the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lash line along the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.

Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a less-intense color than the upper liner. Make sure that the two lines meet at the back corner of the eye. As a general rule, the larger the eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.

Eyeliner smudging is pretty much inevitable. The eyes are naturally moist, and moisture along with laughing, blinking, sneezing and rubbing our eyes (all very human activities) ruins makeup! Avoid using too much moisturizer around the eye; it will travel and convert liner into mush -- not a bad look in a sultry rock-star way, but probably not the look you're going for. Try an eye gel in lieu of eye cream. Look for one that absorbs quickly and be sure to give it a couple of minutes before applying makeup.

Using a Q-tip, trace a line of neutral-colored matte powder or eye shadow around the circumference of the eye as a base on which you'll place the eyeliner.

Eyebrows
Color should match your brows, not your hair color or use what color you think would already exist but for some age factor or another reason. Apply a powder brow color or shadow for best results with a stiff wedge brush with short swift strokes in the direction the hair naturally grows. Do not over exaggerate the shape of the brow by arching or going for “trendy looks”.

Mascara
Use of a lash curler is recommended. It makes you look more awake, adds glamour and makes your lashes look much longer. It is best to use a good brand such as the Tweeserman and only use them it on clean lashes, before you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure for about 10-12 seconds about two to three times at different points to even results and not get a crimped look. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping strokes, holding your upper lip up with the other hand’s index finger. Be sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. A metal mascara comb works best between coats to remove clumping and give definition. To add Power and thickness, dip a clean Q-into some powder and onto the lashes and then reapply mascara.

Without returning wand to tube, apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of the wand).

Lipstick and Lip Liner
A Lip brush or pencil is optional. Use a lip pencil to draw an edge when applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.

Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it almost always looks like a mistake.

1. Use soft, pliable brushes. Avoid hard or stiff brushes. Today’s colors are almost to delicate for stiff brushes anymore.

2. Use brushes that are the correct size for the area you are working on. Avoid brushes too large or too small.

3. Remember to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color to your face.

4. Brush on the color gently with short even strokes; avoid wiping or rubbing the brush across the face.

One of the easiest ways to get a healthy look is with blush -- unfortunately, it is often misused. Here is the correct and easy way to apply blush: First, start with a good quality blush brush. You can accentuate your face and cheeks naturally. Smile and you will see the fleshy part that stands out the most; this is the apple of your checks. This is your starting point for applying your blush. Apply a light layer of blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

The eyebrows are the most important feature in defining the face. The trick to applying a natural eyebrow shape is using a hard stiff, short brush, and working with colorations instead of pencils. Pencils can be used, but it takes practice and patience to get a natural look.

The first step is tweezing. Start by thinning the eyebrow, and then slowly begin to define the arch. The arch should reach the highest point above the middle of your iris. Thin from that point out. The brows are the frames of your eyes. Don't be afraid to tweeze your eyebrows - BUT NEVER SHAVE YOUR EYEBROWS. Spend your money on a good tweezers.

The general rule of determining the shape of your eyebrow is to hold a pencil vertically alongside your face to the point where the pencil meets your eyebrow. That is the natural starting point. Tweeze the stray hairs between the two starting points. The end point is found by angling the pencil past the outer corner of your eye. Remove stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below your natural arch.

The shape and grooming of your eyebrows will make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more naturally then wearing a lot of makeup. Be careful, as heavy brows will overpower your face. Shape your eyebrows by tweezing the hairs from underneath, not from above.

EYESHADOW

Rule # 1 about eye shadow; when you look at a women's face, you see her eyes not her eye shadow. The general rule is that light shades, bring out your eyes, darker shades give them dimension. If you have small eyes and want to give the impression of larger eyes, you want to stay with lighter shades. If you have large eyes or protruding eyes, you would want to use darker shades. To prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, and then powder. This gives you a clean canvas for your colorations

The first step of applying eye shadow is to apply a light color over your entire eyelid from lash line to brow. Use a large flat eye shadow brush. Always use good quality brushes.

The second step is to apply a medium shadow color on your lower lid from lash line to the crease of your eye. Use a fluff brush.

The third step is to use your darkest color as a liner and apply along your lash line. To insure shadow will not flake, dampen your eyeliner brush before applying shadow. This will make it last longer.

Once your foundation is on, gradually apply lighter shades first, slowly working up to your final color. An important fact to remember is, use colors that blend together naturally. It's not where you place the colors: it's that they work together and blend together invisibly.

GENERAL TIPS

1. Be careful with shimmery products, especially on your eyes; they tend to collect in creases.

2. If you have large and open eyes, don’t use loud or bright colors that will over emphasize the fullness. You want them to be soft and keep a person’s attention.

3. On deep-set eyes, you should use shadow colors that are on the light side of the color spectrum.

5. Don’t test foundation or concealer color on your hand. Match it to the skin on your face and neck.

7. If you have sallow skin, pick a foundation that disappears on your face. To counteract your skin tone choose a pink or rosy blush.

8. If your mascara thickens when it reaches the end of the tube, place tube in warm water. That will help make the mascara thinner.

9. Don’t pump your mascara wand into the mascara container. This pushes air in the container and makes the mascara dry out faster. Gently insert the wand, turn two or three times, then remove and apply to lashes

12. If you have problems under the eye such as dark circles, bags, uneven skin tones, wrinkled skin, etc…. these problems will become more obvious if you apply mascara to the bottom lashes.

13. Even if you do not use foundation or concealer a powder will give the skin a matte finished appearance.

14. Powder makes things stay in place whether it is cream based products that move around or foundations, pencils or concealers.

17. Before applying powder make sure there are no lines or creases. Once you powder, it will stay put.

18. If your face is very moist, blot first gently with a tissue, otherwise the powder will clump.

19. Put a light layer of powder under the eyes before applying eye shadow. If color falls when applying color, it can be gently whisked away after you have finished your application.

20. Too much color? Dust on a layer of loose powder or pressed powder to take off the edge.

21. Don’t worry about matching your lip color to your blush; just keep it in the same color family.

24. Avoid true red shades if your face is blotchy, irritated or ruddy. Your lips will draw attention to your skin.

25. A great way to organize your lipsticks or use up the end of your lipstick is to dig out or cut off a chunk of lip color and place it in a lipstick palette case.

27. To enhance a pout, dab a silver lip-gloss onto the center of your lower lip.

28. If lip liner is too dark tone it down with a small amount of foundation then reapply lip liner.

29. Vitamin E oil gives your lips a topcoat plus seals in color. This also creates instant shine and helps to protect sensitive areas.

30. To prevent lipstick from getting on your teeth, put your finger in your mouth and close your lips-when you withdraw your finger it will remove excess color.

33. If you are thinking of lightening your brows, try colored mascara first to see what they would look like.

34. If you want your eyebrows to stay in place, put clear mascara on them or a little hairspray on an eyebrow groomer and brush to desired shape.

35. Concealer doesn’t have to be worn with any makeup or powder. Sometimes all you need is a little concealer and something on your lips. Make sure your concealer is one or two shades lighter then your skin. Women insist on using the lightest concealer. Concealer should be applied as sparingly as possible. You don’t want it to be cakey or thick.

Foundation: Prime the skin with a moisturizer according to your skin's needs.
Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your skin tone and if you need more coverage use Professional Concealer under the eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.

Follow with your skin tone correct shade of Moisturizing Foundation for a sheer, dewy complexion.

Blush: Using your fingers, smile and apply Sand Pink Cream Blush Stick across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline, then blend down to soften the edges (for darker skin tones, use Soft Plum Cream Blush Stick).

Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using the Powder Puff on the forehead, chin and nose, avoiding the cheeks.

Brows: Using the Eye Brow Brush and a shadow the same tone as your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with Powder Puff if necessary.

Eyes: Begin with a sweep of White Eye Shadow across the entire lid and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use Shell Eye Shadow).

Using the Eye Shadow Brush apply Grey Eye Shadow across the lid from the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease.

Follow with the Eye Liner Brush (damp), applying a soft line of Slate Eye Shadow close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Charcoal Eye Shadow).

Finish with one coat of Black Thickening Mascara.

Lips: Apply Pink Berry Lip Stain or Pink Lip Color and line with either Nude or Pink Lip Pencil .

Top with a touch of Petal Pink Lip Gloss.

For a richer look, mix Pink and Chocolate Lip Color topped with White Lip Gloss.

Nails: Apply Pink Sheer Nail Wash.

Tip: Customize your lip color by experimenting with various lip pencils.
Using Pink, Nude, Raisin or Chocolate Lip Pencil you can brighten any lip.

Foundation: Prime the skin with Face Lotion or Hydrating Face Cream according to your skin's needs.

Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your skin tone or, if necessary, Professional Concealer under the eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.

Follow with your skin tone correct shade of appropriate foundation to even out the complexion. Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using Powder Puff. Brush off any excess using Powder Brush.

Brows: Using Eye Brow Brush and a shadow that is the same tone as your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with Powder Puff if necessary.

Eyes: Begin with a sweep of Bone Eye Shadow across the entire lid and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use Banana Shadow).

Using Eye Shadow Brush apply Banana Eye Shadow across the lid from the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease (for darker complexions, apply Toast Eye Shadow).

Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Eye Definer Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Eye Definer Brush apply a line or Rich Brown Eye Shadow around the entire eye close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Mahogany Eye Shadow). Make sure to tap brush on the back of the hand for a soft smudgy line.

Finish with one coat of Dark Brown Thickening Mascara.
Option: Apply a touch of Pale Yellow Shimmer Eye Shadow on the lid or brow bone using your index finger.

Blush: Using the Bronzer Brush, smile and apply light Bronzing Powder across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline.
Blend down to soften the edges.

For a pop of color, follow with Apricot Blush applied to the apple of the cheek (for darker skin tones use Medium or Dark Bronzing Powder followed by Apricot Blush).

Lips: Apply Garnet Lip Shimmer lined with Cola Lip Pencil. Honey Lip Gloss can be layered on top to give the lips a fabulous glow.
Option: Use Malt Lip Shimmer lined Chocolate Lip Pencil layered with Honey Lip Gloss.

Nails: Layer Brown Shimmer Nail Wash over Brown Sheer Nail Wash.

Tip: For an evening face line the lips with Red or Chocolate Lip Pencil.

Wide-Set Eyes...are more than one eye-length apart.

Your Goal: Make your eyes look closer together by emphasizing
the inner third of the eye.

Line: Starting at the inner corners, line the eye completely, top and bottom.

Accent: Apply light shade on the outer 2/3 of the lid, lashes to browbone, brushing towards the outer corners.

Define: Sweep your deep color on the inside third of the lid, brushing towards the inner corner of eyes. Shadow from lashes to just below the browbone. Blend edges into the light shade to get a soft gradation of color.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Center a little highlighter just under the brow in the middle of the eye.

Brows & Lashes: Accent color a little heavier at the beginning of brows. Don't extend brow color beyond your natural line. Apply lashcolor evenly on upper and lower lashes, with an extra coat or two on the lashes closest to the inner corner of the eye.

Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-Set Eyes ... are recessed or shadowed by a prominent brow bone. Lids may be hidden and the eyebrows appear close to the eyes.

Your Goal: Make the eyes look more open, less recessed.

Line: Using a fine line, outline upper and lower lids evenly.

Accent: Sweep light color over the entire lid, lashes to brows.

Define: Stroke your deep shade just ABOVE (not in) the eye's natural crease. Blend lightly at the edges to soften. This brings the lid portion 'forward' optically.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Brush a little highlighter in and along the lid crease. Do not blend.

Brows & Lashes: Raise the plane of the brow line by skimming brow color lightly along the tops of brows. Since pale brows make eyes look even more recessed, select brow color a shade or two darker than your natural tone. Mascara top and bottom lashes lavishly.

Prominent Eyes ...are large and may appear to bulge, with prominent upper lids.

Your Goal: Bring the eyes in a little and minimize the top lids.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, with a slightly wider band of liner along the lashes of the lower lid.

Accent: Sweep light shadow horizontally across the browbone to take the focus off the lid area.

Define: Sweep a horizontal band of deep shadow across the whole lid, extending from the inner corner to just beyond the outer edge of the eye. This subtly elongates and minimizes prominent lids.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a dot of highlighter below the arch of the brow.

Brows & Lashes: Emphasize the highest point of the brow to counteract the roundness of the eye shape. Lightly mascara top lashes, concentrating more color on lower lashes.

Round Eyes ....are shaped almost perfectly oval, not deep-set or overly prominent.

Your Goal: To give eyes more elongation.

Line: Outline both lids evenly, top and bottom, extending eyeliner just beyond the outer corners.

Accent: Focus light color on the outer section of the browbone, brushing outward to elongate the eye. Cover area from browline to lid crease.

Define: Concentrate deep shade at the edge of the eyes, extending color out beyond the eye to elongate.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay a little highlighter on the highest edge of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Extend the outside edges of the brows. Creating an arch will also make the eye look less round. Concentrate mascara on the top lashes, especially on the outer corners of the eyes.

Down-slanting eyes...are eyes that seem to droop downward at the outer edges.

Your Goal: "Lift" the outside edges for a livelier look.

Line: Line upper and lower lids. On the lower lid only, slant the liner upward, extending a bit beyond the outside corner of the eye

Accent: Brush light shade along the browbone, concentrating most
Of the color on the outer edges and slanting upward.

Define: Apply deep color to the outer third of the lid, from lashes to crease. Stroke upward at the outer edge to create a lifting effect.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a touch of highlighter to the highest point of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Accent (or create) a gentle arch to give the brow a slight upslant. Focus most of your lashcolor on the upper lashes, especially at the outside corners.

Hooded Eyes ...are eyes with sagging lids and folds of skin around them.

Your Goal: To minimize the hooded effect.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the lids, upper and lower.

Accent: Sweep light color on the highest point of the browbone,
above the crease.

Define: Smooth deep color horizontally over hooded area, (slightly
above the crease of the eyelid).

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay highlight over the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Shape brows into an arch to "lift' the eye further.
Concentrate most of your mascara on upper and lower lashes from
inner corner to the middle of the eye.

Small Eyes...are smaller than average, or when compared to the rest of
your features.

Your Goal: Make eyes look larger.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the entire eye. Use a light to medium shade of eyeliner
To avoid "closing" in the eye and making it look even smaller.

Accent: Brush a light shade over the entire lid from lashes to browbone to "open" the entire eye.

Define: Stroke deep shade horizontally, starting from the inner corner, along the lid crease. Extend color slightly past the outer eye corner to widen.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Stroke highlighter under the browline, blending into your light color.

Brows & Lashes: Brush brows up and extend the line of the brows slightly past the eye. Thin brows make eyes look larger. Apply mascara generously on top lashes and lightly on lower lashes.

Asian Eyes....are almond-shaped with little or no natural crease in the lid.

Your Goal: Create contrast between eye, lid and browbone.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, keeping line close to lashes.

Accent: Bring out the browbone with your light shade.

Define: Create the effect of a crease in the lid, by starting your deep color
at the inside corner of the eye and drawing it horizontally midway between the lash
line and the brow bone. Blend to avoid an obvious 'stripe' of shadow.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add highlight on the outer third of browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Giving the brow a slightly arched shape 'opens' the eye. If eyes are small, also extend the edges of browline. Apply mascara generously to upper and lower lashes.

1. Brush brows upward. Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Be careful not to take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.

2. Look closely at the shape. Your brow should begin above your tear duct, peak at the outer edge of your iris and end at the outer corner of your eye. "Many women make the mistake of taking off too much at the outer corners," says Weston. "This slants the brows upward and makes the person look perpetually angry." They should be level or horizontal at both ends.

3. Prep your skin: Put some astringent on a cotton ball and wipe it across your nose, forehead, cheeks and behind your ears.

4. Hold a pencil in line with the outer side of your iris and note where the peak of your arch naturally occurs. From the arch to the outer corner of the eye, your brow should fall in a straight or slightly curved line, depending on the look you're trying to achieve.

5. Hold the tweezers at a 45-degree angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. Pull in the direction of the hair growth, or you may end up breaking the hair mid-shaft. Follow your natural brow shape — not the trends. It's very difficult to let your brows grow back into their natural shape after you've plucked them to death trying to achieve a particular look.

6. Fill in sparse areas with a freshly sharpened brow pencil. Use light, quick strokes to draw in hair. Brow powder will give thin brows overall definition and is great for a more natural look. Using a brow brush, sweep some powder up and outward over the brows. If you're a brow novice, a tinted brow gel is a foolproof way to keep brows in place. Lightly coat the brows using upward and outward strokes. Wipe off any excess and allow it to set.

Waxing vs. Tweezing
While both methods can produce beautifully shaped brows, waxing is best left to the professionals. "One wrong drop of wax and you can take off half of an eyebrow," warns Weston. "And it may not grow back properly." Waxing is also not advised for women who have sensitive skin, sunburn or use Retin-A and other prescription creams.

That being said, if you've never touched your brows, it may be worth your while to invest in a visit to the salon for a consultation and preliminary waxing. Once the aesthetician has shaped your brows, you will be able to maintain them at home.

Well-groomed brows are the basis of any great face. Find out what to do with the other hair on your head in Fall Hair Trends. Match your sleek look with great style from First Call for Fall.

Beyond Beauty Jane Pratt

Use natural clay masks once/week=pull out toxins, oil and impurities (Natural kaolin=best). Queen Helene (“The Cocktail Facial-$4.)

Drinks lots of water, fruits and vegetables (esp. greens) Avoid sugar and fried foods. Alcohol, smoking and soda are bad too.

Liner: dark gray, brown, black, dark blue and dark green. Dark matte eye shadow applied with sponge-tip applicator. MAC, Chanel, Lancôme. Liner pens; for darker look apply with small thin flat brushes. Not too much on lower-looks heavy and dated. Inside lower lid is hip-blend with sponge-tip applicator into lower lash line.

Mascara-Brown is more modern, curved brushes are best. Waterproof is harder to get off-use only if needed. Maybelline two coats to upper lashes, extra to outer=cat-eye effect.

Blush: keep it simple and don’t over do it, wear a little. Balances face between lips and face. Bronze, copper or pinky. Chanel Tempting beige=best color ever! MAC shades for both shadow and blush. Use natural-hair brush or cotton puff-not synthetic cotton balls or pads, only cotton. Apply to apples of cheeks and then outwards, also temples and forehead for color and balance. Cream blush is easy to apply with sponge. Blend

Lips: need color and moisture. Find one or two and stay with those. Never match to outfit. Stay away from super matte/dark browns. Try light formulas-sheers, frost and shimmers; pearl shades-bronze, soft lavender, rose and cherry for a softer effect. Kiehl’s Golden Berry. Go darker or brighter than natural color. Darker=burgundy, wine, rose-brown; brighter-cherry or red, well blended. Let natural lip color show through. Use lip liner to build up thinner lips, blend inward. MAC (Spice & Nutmeg), Chanel (Nude), Max Factor (Nude).

The Brushes of the Trade


All pictured brushes are provided courtesy of PRESCRIPTIVES		Foundation Brush Tip: Dot product onto face and brush to blend, or pour product into hand and then brush on face. Use dry to apply highlighter to cheeks.	Buff Brush Tip: With edge of brush, use one shade deeper than skinone to contour and shape. Next, blend with flat surface in a circular motion to soften and even out color.

Cheek Brush Tip: For a natural "Sun-Kissed" look, dip cheek brush in correct level of loose powder, Dip it into cheek color and apply. This guarantees a soft, sheer look. Apply to apple of cheeks and across nose, chin and forehead.	Powder Brush Tip: After applying foundation, use brush to apply a light dusting of powder. Then, use it again to remove any excess. When the face is completely made up (Eyes, Lips, and Cheeks) Use the brush to blend it all together - Seamlessly.	Soft Shadow Brush Tip: Using a light color eye shadow sweep across eyelid for an instant eye-opening effect. Can also be used to highlight cheeks, nose area and underneath mouth.	Eye Shaper Brush Tip: Use eye shaper brush to apply darker shades in the corner of the eyes. Next, with the edge of the brush, smooth on the same shades very close to the lashes to create a smoky effect.

Eyelining Brush Tip: First dip the brush in powder eyeshadow and shake off any excess. Then, use the tip to create definition by brushing