Jenelle Rose: Make up professional

 Portfolio for high speed connections

Film sets, models, actresses and clients

in glamour, clean and artistic makeup

including before/after and behind the scenes film shots

Pictures from film sets (Low res)

On this page, learn a better understanding of health, beauty, cosmetics and the details on the latest trends in beauty!

Whether you are a beginner or searching for advanced technique, you will find it here, including how to buy, apply, remove make up and put together a nicer, better you!

These pages give tips for males and females. Check back often, as these pages will be updated and give ever more information and more details! Browse around and grab a few ideas and if you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask!

Skin Care

Beautiful skin is the key to great-looking make-up

Always start with moisturizers, unless your foundation already has moisturizers built-in. Also prep your lips! If you are a teenager, you do not need to wear foundation at all, in fact you are likely suffering from acne breakout. Do not pop these and do not use products that are drying; you are only making the problem worse!

Anytime you use makeup girls, always make sure you wash your face at night and moisturize before going to bed!

Another key to great looking makeup is a good scrub. Not to the point of redness or causing damage or drying if you have dry or sensitive skin but a good scrub makes for a great start because a clean face makes a great foundation to work with and comes through to the end. You never want to put too much product on, you want the skin to come through instead.

40's Skin

Skin type is normal but with an increasingly drier T-zone. Crow's feet, smile lines, creases in forehead, lines around the lips, bags under the eyes and sun damage (age spots) are much more evident. The skin no longer rebounds as quickly as it used to, therefore extreme weight gains or losses begin to show up on your face.

What to do:

Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle facial cleansers, lightweight eye crèmes and moisturizers. Use of alpha hydroxy acid products and a retinol product will speed up skin's cell turnover and deliver a fresher, healthier glow to your skin. There are also prime and prep products I use when I do makeup I can recommend. Some of these actually feel in the lines and feel silky. I would keep the use of AHA products to a minimum, if used at all. Do not use these on dry skin.

 50's Skin

Your skin is much drier than in years past. Flare ups of adult acne may be common. Wrinkles and sagging become more dramatic. Cell turnover decreases by almost half.

What to do. 

Wear adequate sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher). Use gentle facial cleansers (possibly those that are cream-based). You may want to try using heavier moisturizers, but stay with light weight eye crèmes to prevent eye cream overkill. I like the Cetaphil brand of lotions and cleansers.

Makeup Primer:

Makeup- First Steps:

By Jenelle Rose

Although there are variations to applying things like lipstick and eye shadow, putting on basic makeup like foundation and concealer are easy!

Always start with a clean, moisturized face. Then apply foundation so skin looks even. If you use a powder-based, two-in-one style foundation, you can skip right to your color cosmetics. You don't need extra concealer or powder.

Your second step, if you have any areas that weren't covered by your foundation and need extra attention, like dark undereye circles, blemishes, red spots, or broken capillaries, is where concealer comes in. Apply it with your fingers, a clean sponge, or a makeup brush in gentle, dabbing strokes and then tap carefully with your fingertip around the edges to blend. You can also apply concealer to your eye lids for a really smooth look. It will even out any blotchy skintone and will help your eye shadow stay on longer.

The third step is powder. Even dry skin can benefit from the right powder because it sets your makeup for longer wear through the day or night. I like loose powder better than pressed because the finish is lighter. Apply it lightly with a large powder brush, making sure to dust a little under your eyes to set your concealer (helps prevent creasing).

With your basic makeup finished, the rest is really up to your own preference. Here are a few guidelines:

For eye makeup, apply your shadows first, then liner, then mascara. The mascara will seal in any eye shadow that falls on your lashes and actually make them look thicker

Apply your blush after foundation and eye makeup so you can adjust the intensity of the color to suit the rest of your face.

Lip liner can come either before or after lipstick depending on your needs. If you like having an outline to fill in, apply liner first and then lipstick - just make sure to blend the edges with a lipbrush or cotton swab so you don't have an obvious line. If you feel confident with applying lipstick, I recommend putting your lipstick on first, then liner. I find the colors last longer this way and it tends to look more polished.

To keep your brows from looking fake and overly made-up, always use small, light strokes of brow color so it looks more like hair than a dark line.

Eyes Colors

Simple eye makeup can really bring out your eyes, and you don't need six different shadows to do it. For everyday, use one lid color, one highlight, and one liner color (shadow or pencil depending on your preference) at most. If you pick neutral shades like browns, grays, and plums, you can actually create several different looks from just the three.

Choose an eye shadow lid color that will really bring out your eyes, think about the color wheel, choosing complementary colors, those opposite each other on the wheel, give you the most contrast and make each color stand out.

For example:If you have brown eyes, shades of blue, blue gray, and plum will make your eyes stand out

If you have green eyes, choose shades of pink, salmon, mauve, and brownish-pink to make the green look greener.

If you have blue eyes, shades of brown, camel, and taupe will make the blue appear even more blue.

For highlight and liner, stick with neutral colors like beige or soft yellow for highlight and deep brown, navy, or charcoal for liner. Now you're ready to apply!

Lid Color
Since the lid color is going to be the focal point of your eye makeup, the part that makes your eyes stand out the most, use a good eye shadow brush and a good quality shadow that is soft, blends easily, and won't crease. Applying eye shadow isn't tricky, just remember these tips:

Tap excess shadow off the brush.

Work slowly and deliberately.

Plan where you want the shadow to go.

Take your time, get it right (especially liner).

Blend so there are no obvious lines where color starts and ends.

Highlight
Highlighting is the easiest step in eye makeup. Using a small eye shadow brush, pick up a bit of your light color with the brush, tap off any excess, and apply to the area just under your eye brows. You should be able to cover it in one sweep. Now, clean off the brush on a piece of tissue and use the cleaned brush to blend the highlighter color down into the edge of the lid color so there's no obvious line. I really use a highlight color more as a blending and softening color rather than adding more color to your eyes.

Using the eye shadow color you've chosen for your lid, swipe your brush across the color a few times, tap off the excess, then apply the shadow across your lid in small strokes. Don't get too close to the crease or to your brow bone, since that's where the highlighter goes.

Liner
Personally, I don’t like using pencils. Pencils can drag, smear, cake, and leave blobs on your eyelid that fall into the eye. Using a dark eye shadow, which lasts a long time in a color like deep brown, black, navy, or charcoal and a liner brush with fairly stiff bristles, you can get the same defining effect as a pencil.

Wet the brush twirl it into the shadow, trying it on your wrist a few times till the consistency is right before putting it to your eye then draw a thin line as close to the base of your lashes as possible. Make sure to start at the inside corner of your eye and work all the way out to the outer corner. You can work in short strokes if it's easier, rather than trying to draw one long line. Line only the top lid or do both the top and lower the very same way if you like. Experiment to see which "look" suits the shape of your eyes.

Basic Makeup Technique, an Overview

By Jenelle Rose

Shadowing

Keep deeper colors on the lid.

Use lighter colors on the brow bone.

For a casual but polished look, sweep one shade from lashes to brow bone.

Use cream shadows sparingly -- the colors tend to be very vivid.

Eye gloss is the newest trend. It adds a sheer shine to lids, but don't try it unless you know you can carry it off -- it can look greasy and inappropriate.

Apply powder eyeliners wet for more intense color.

White, pink and yellow eyeliner pencils tend to make the eye look open and brighter. Blue counteracts redness, and black will give you a sultry look.

In order to make eyeliner easy to apply, manufacturers sometimes make it so creamy it doesn't stay put. You can use a matching eyeshadow or powder to set your eyeliner.

Practice your application and blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of color. Remember, lighter colors bring things forward and highlight, dark colors recede and add depth and shading.

Eyeliner
Position the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lash line along the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.
Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a less-intense color than the upper liner.  As a general rule, the larger the eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.

Eyeliner smudging is inevitable. The eyes are naturally moist, and moisture along with laughing, blinking, sneezing and rubbing our eyes ruins makeup! Avoid using too much moisturizer around the eye; it will travel and convert liner into mush. Not a bad look in a sultry rock-star way, but probably not what you're going for. Try an eye gel in lieu of eye cream. Look for one that absorbs quickly and be sure to give it 10 of minutes to absorb.

Using a Q-tip, trace a line of neutral-colored matte powder or eye shadow around the circumference of the eye as a base on which you'll place the eyeliner.

Eyebrows
Color should match your brows, not your hair color or use what color you think would already exist but for some age factor or another reason. Apply a powder brow color or shadow for best results with a stiff wedge brush with short swift strokes in the direction the hair naturally grows. Do not over exaggerate the shape of the brow by arching or going for “trendy looks”.

Mascara
Use of a lash curler is recommended. It makes you look more awake, adds glamour and makes your lashes look much longer. It is best to use a good brand such as the Tweeserman and only use them it on clean lashes, before you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure for about 10-12 seconds about two to three times at different points to even results and not get a crimped look. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping strokes, holding your upper lip up with the other hand’s index finger. Be sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. A metal mascara comb works best between coats to remove clumping and give definition. To add Power and thickness, dip a clean Q-into some powder and onto the lashes and then reapply mascara.

Without returning wand to tube, apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of the wand).

Lipstick and Lip Liner
A Lip brush or pencil is optional. Use a lip pencil to draw an edge when applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.
Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it almost always looks like a mistake.
Good brushes are essential for applying makeup:

Use soft, pliable brushes. Avoid hard or stiff brushes. Today’s colors are almost to delicate for stiff brushes anymore.

Use brushes that are the correct size for the area you are working on. Avoid brushes too large or too small.

Remember to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color to your face.

Brush on the color gently with short even strokes; avoid wiping or rubbing the brush across the face.

Gently wash your brushes every month or so in a mild anti-bacterial soap.

Helpful Makeup Hints:

By Jenelle Rose

It is a good idea to have a cosmetic mirror with magnification and on this cosmetic mirror, have attached an additional 10x mirror for ultra close-up work to see liner, pores, brows, etc. with yourself ideally able to use natural lighting and in front of another mirror, such as a dresser. Also have at this location a small quiet, clip-on fan directed at you from in front of but not on while working with loose powder or mascara.

Before you start and after you are finished, wash your hands. One of the last things you will do is your hair. The foundation goes into or at least to the the hairline.

Go to the other articles in this website for steps pertaining to moisturizing, application and so on. I will get into other areas here, like for example lipstick. L’Oreal has a new endless lipstick that can be bought with or without gloss, so buy one with and one or two without. They are fantastic because they really do last pretty well without the dryness of others. By the way, the trend in lips this year is RED.

You can get Sally Hansen’s lip sealant and turn any regular lipstick into a longer lasting one but there is a strong after-taste with it. I would recommend a lip balm before the application of any lipstick letting it absorb (10 minutes, if possible) before applying color and don’t be afraid to use your fingers to pat it into the lips! Lightly powdering will also provide more staying power as well. Powder works wonders between applications of Mascara too. Use an old but clean Mascara wand for this trick, dipped into your powder; a Q-Tip will also do but use carefully.

There are many types of foundation, even in liquid types. If you have smooth skin, then you have the options of tinted moisturizers, Mac’s Hyper Real, as well as more matt-type liquids and the paste types like Mac Studio Fix, the latter works great with an orange lip stick rubbed into the palm of the hand or a very small amount of orange pigment to counter the effect of blue beard cover for males and makes a "clean" face to pass as female. Use a Gillette Mach 3 razor for a close shave along with Gillette’s gel for Women/”sensitive skin” (it just smells better).

Be careful about using any kind of shimmer with older skin and especially around the eyes (lids). You do not want to draw attention to this area if you have creases. Otherwise, shimmer is good. There are several stores such as Sephora which carry brands such as Becca which make a Shimmer you can use all over that an SPF of 27 and are available in a flesh tone. I use it on faces to give a warm glow. I have also used Mac’s Hyper Real combined with their Vanilla pigment and Clinique’s “Magic”, all for a shimmer effect, especially nice in the Spring. Closely related is new glimmer that Mac just put out that is safe to use around the eyes but beware what you put around yours.

Things to have on hand and within reach are cotton balls, sponge applicator, Q-tips, a sharpener and it would be nice if you could have your brushes laid out in front of you in the order you use them such as foundation, concealer, powder, bronzer, contour, finishing, lip, shadow, liner, mascara, perfume, hair, etc.

Your products could also be organized like that as well: moisturizer, foundation, concealer, powder, bronzer, etc.

What has saved me many times and will I pass along to you, is to make a short, itemized checklist of what needs to be done and keep it in sight. This list would include things like perfume, earrings, necklace, lipstick, blush, bronzer, rings, watch, etc. Your own list may include more or less. The idea here is that it saves you time and you don’t forget anything before you leave the house or in this case the makeup dresser!

Getting a Better Deal:

By Jenelle Rose

Cosmetic companies often make pretty lofty claims about what their products can do. So many of them promise the sun, moon and stars, but those results often are just not possible (like "re-training" the skin to act differently, making pores physically smaller, and magically erasing wrinkles, just to name a few). We all want to look our best, so we get sucked in and start to believe that a miracle cream or potion might really exist - it doesn't.

Having said that, there are plenty of good quality skin care and makeup choices at the drugstore that are just as effective (just ignore the hype) as department store brands for a lot less money.

Foundation can be a little tricky if there are no testers to try the colors on your skin, but there are still some great products to be found. Try to shop somewhere that will let you exchange your purchase for another color if necessary. You can also bring a favorite foundation you currently use from another brand to the drugstore and compare colors.

Lipstick is an easy winner at the drugstore - the prices are so much lower than dept. store brands that you can afford to try new colors and textures. Many of the products are even practically identical to department store brands; for instance, Lancôme and L'Oreal are owned by the same company and have many similar skin care products.

Remember a basic cosmetic rule - you don't always get what you pay for! With a little comparison shopping, you'll find some great, inexpensive products at the drugstore that work just as well or better than high priced department store lines. I wanted to include an article about getting makeup brushes from art supply stores but there simply was not enough room in this issue to print it, maybe next time….

Now for some Specifics in detail:

Foundation:

By Jenelle Rose

Foundation is one of the most important steps in your makeup routine. It can make your skin look its best, even if you're having a less-than-perfect skin day. Whether you like sheer, medium, or full coverage, there are

definitely plenty of choices for everyone's tastes.

With so many different brands and formulas out there, choosing a foundation that's right for you can be a real challenge. To find the right formula, and the right color, you need to know your skin. Are you oily? Dry? Only oily in spots? Sensitive? Normal? Knowing your skin type helps eliminate foundation formulas that aren't designed for your skin type.

For instance, if you have very dry skin that has flaky patches, a powder foundation will only make you feel drier, and it will accentuate any dry, flaky skin on your face. A liquid foundation with emollient ingredients like plant oils is a better choice for dry skin.

For Normal Skin, you can use pretty much anything that suits your taste. Experiment with liquids, creams, powders, and sticks to see what you, and your skin, like the best. Powder foundations are the easiest to use on normal skin and always look great. Always choose a shade that matches perfectly with your skin color (test the shade along your lower cheek just above the jawline for the best match; the right shade should seem to disappear).

Testing your skin: Wash your face and an hour later press a tissue against your T-zone (forehead, nose), then inspect the tissue.

Liquids
Thanks to advanced technology and a wider selection of colors, today's foundations can make your skin look fresher and more radiant than ever before. The color selections are better than ever too, with more choices in light and dark tones as well as more yellow-based colors.

Powder and Cream-to-Powder
Today's selection of these foundations are a great alternative to liquid. They give a smooth, even finish in a few strokes, and they are totally portable for easy touch-ups.

Stick
For those of us who like quick, simplified makeup, stick foundations are worth considering, especially for drier skin. They are easy to apply and can be used all over, or just as concealer for dark circles, on eyelids as eye shadow base - wherever!

Concealer:

By Jenelle Rose

Concealer in a shade that matches your skintone can really help with dark circles, red areas or veins, blemishes, freckles, or anything else you want to cover.

For blemishes, you want a stick or thicker cream formula with a smooth finish that doesn't look cakey or thick. These usually work best because of their staying power. Apply with a small, clean makeup brush, dabbing a small amount on the blemish until it is covered. Use a gentle touch and do not rub or over-blend. Once covered, apply a thin layer of loose powder to "lock" it in.

For everything else, including dark undereye circles, spider veins, small freckles, or whatever you want to hide, choose from a variety liquid to cream to stick.

As with blemishes, the harder the spot is to cover, the more precise and gentle you'll want to be with your application. For severe undereye circles (dark blue or purple), a medium weight cream tends to stay put and resist creasing better than a liquid. Apply the concealer only to the very dark areas, and blend gently with a few finger taps.

I like using a semi-creamy product applied with a small makeup brush for just about everything, but you might find a liquid with a sponge applicator is your favorite. Make sure that any concealer you buy is a shade or two lighter than your skin color when used with foundation, especially around the eyes and always be sure to blend.

Getting Color with Blush:

By Jenelle Rose

One of the easiest ways to get that healthy color is with blush; however, blush is the one product that is most commonly misused. How many times have you seen a woman with a bright pink or peach streak on her cheeks that is supposed to be blush but looks more like racing stripes or is too bright? Applying blush the right way is easy. Here's how: 

    If your blush came with one of those little compact size blush brushes, throw it away or use it for eye shadow. Those brushes are too small and the bristles aren't shaped properly to apply the color in a natural looking way. You need one that's fairly full and round, with tapered sides for better blending. I personally use MAC's #135 because its soft bristles and rounded shape apply the color very softly for a subtle look.

    Don't try to reshape your face with blush and contour colors. You can accentuate your face and your cheeks naturally by just smiling. Smile, and you'll see the apple of your cheeks (the fleshy part that stands out the most), which is the exact spot to put your blush. Swipe your brush across your blush, then tap the excess blush off before you apply it to your face. Don't blow on the bristles or you'll introduce bacteria from your mouth onto the brush.

    Now that the brush has a light layer of blush on it, apply it to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

Your blush should enhance your face and the rest of your makeup, not compete with it. If you are wearing red lipstick, don't wear peach or bronze blush.

For the most natural looking makeup, try to keep all your colors either warm (think peach) or cool (think pink). If you aren't sure what blush color will look best on your skin, just look at your cheeks after you've been exercising, like running. That color is your natural blush color, so keep that color in mind when you are shopping.

Taking it off

By Jenelle Rose

Always, take your makeup off at night. To get it off fast, try a couple of squirts of Cetaphil’s daily facial cleanser into the palm done a couple times, followed by multiple rinsings, followed by Cetaphil’s moisturizing lotion, a great combination.

Something will still be left behind like mascara, eyeliner and traces of longwearing foundations or lipsticks. For the cleanest clean, consider adding an all-purpose makeup remover to your nightly routine. For eyes, Beauty Without Cruelty Extra Gentle Eye Makeup Remover with extra gentle cleansers remove every trace of eye makeup with no stinging, burning, or oiliness.

Remove all your makeup in one sweep with no water and no hassle with Lancome Eau de Bienfait or BeneFit Clean Sweep. Both brands are non-oily, gentle to eyes and effective on everything from water-resistant mascara to caked-on concealer.

Estee Lauder has Eye and Lip Makeup Remover for LongWear Formulas. I've been less than thrilled however with some other brands' removers, like Clinique Take The Day Off (painful stinging) and Avon Perfect Wear Makeup Remover (really oily).

Technique

Part one is female techniques, part two below, provides information specific to male to female transformation type of make up.

Part One: FEMALE MAKEUP OR MAKEOVER

Shadowing

• Keep deeper colors on the lid.
• Use lighter colors on the brow bone.
• For a casual but polished look, sweep one shade from lashes to brow bone.
• Use cream shadows sparingly -- the colors tend to be very vivid.
• Eye gloss is the newest trend. It adds a sheer shine to lids, but don't try it unless you know you can carry it off -- it can look greasy and inappropriate.
• Apply powder eyeliners wet for more intense color.
• White, pink and yellow eyeliner pencils tend to make the eye look open and brighter. Blue counteracts redness, and black will give you a sultry look.
• In order to make eyeliner easy to apply, manufacturers sometimes make it so creamy it doesn't stay put. You can use a matching eyeshadow or powder liner to set your eyeliner.

Practice your application and blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of color. Remember, lighter colors bring things forward and highlight, dark colors recede and add depth and shading.

Eyeliner
Position the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lash line along the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.

Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a less-intense color than the upper liner. Make sure that the two lines meet at the back corner of the eye. As a general rule, the larger the eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.

How do I keep my eyeliner from smudging?

Eyeliner smudging is pretty much inevitable. The eyes are naturally moist, and moisture along with laughing, blinking, sneezing and rubbing our eyes (all very human activities) ruins makeup! Avoid using too much moisturizer around the eye; it will travel and convert liner into mush -- not a bad look in a sultry rock-star way, but probably not the look you're going for. Try an eye gel in lieu of eye cream. Look for one that absorbs quickly and be sure to give it a couple of minutes before applying makeup.

Using a Q-tip, trace a line of neutral-colored matte powder or eye shadow around the circumference of the eye as a base on which you'll place the eyeliner.

Eyebrows
Color should match your brows, not your hair color or use what color you think would already exist but for some age factor or another reason. Apply a powder brow color or shadow for best results with a stiff wedge brush with short swift strokes in the direction the hair naturally grows. Do not over exaggerate the shape of the brow by arching or going for “trendy looks”.

Mascara
Use of a lash curler is recommended. It makes you look more awake, adds glamour and makes your lashes look much longer. It is best to use a good brand such as the Tweeserman and only use them it on clean lashes, before you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure for about 10-12 seconds about two to three times at different points to even results and not get a crimped look. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping strokes, holding your upper lip up with the other hand’s index finger. Be sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. A metal mascara comb works best between coats to remove clumping and give definition. To add Power and thickness, dip a clean Q-into some powder and onto the lashes and then reapply mascara.

Without returning wand to tube, apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of the wand).

Lipstick and Lip Liner
A Lip brush or pencil is optional. Use a lip pencil to draw an edge when applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.

Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it almost always looks like a mistake.
 

Good brushes are essential for applying makeup:

1.      Use soft, pliable brushes. Avoid hard or stiff brushes. Today’s colors are almost to delicate for stiff brushes anymore.

2.      Use brushes that are the correct size for the area you are working on. Avoid brushes too large or too small.

3.      Remember to knock the excess powder off the brush before you apply the color to your face.

4.      Brush on the color gently with short even strokes; avoid wiping or rubbing the brush across the face.

Gently wash your brushes every month or so in a mild anti-bacterial soap.

from Profaces

Used by permission

 http://www.profaces.com/

BLUSH

One of the easiest ways to get a healthy look is with blush -- unfortunately, it is often misused. Here is the correct and easy way to apply blush: First, start with a good quality blush brush. You can accentuate your face and cheeks naturally. Smile and you will see the fleshy part that stands out the most; this is the apple of your checks. This is your starting point for applying your blush. Apply a light layer of blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

• TIP: Tap off the excess blush from your brush before applying to your face. Do not blow on the bristles or you will put bacteria from your mouth on to the brush. Compact size blush brushes are too small and the bristles are not shaped properly. Once again, use a good quality brush.

• TIP: To find the perfect color blush for your skin, look at your cheeks after you have exercised. That is what your natural blush color should look like.

EYEBROWS

The eyebrows are the most important feature in defining the face. The trick to applying a natural eyebrow shape is using a hard stiff, short brush, and working with colorations instead of pencils. Pencils can be used, but it takes practice and patience to get a natural look.

The first step is tweezing. Start by thinning the eyebrow, and then slowly begin to define the arch. The arch should reach the highest point above the middle of your iris. Thin from that point out. The brows are the frames of your eyes. Don't be afraid to tweeze your eyebrows - BUT NEVER SHAVE YOUR EYEBROWS. Spend your money on a good tweezers.

The general rule of determining the shape of your eyebrow is to hold a pencil vertically alongside your face to the point where the pencil meets your eyebrow. That is the natural starting point. Tweeze the stray hairs between the two starting points. The end point is found by angling the pencil past the outer corner of your eye. Remove stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below your natural arch.

The shape and grooming of your eyebrows will make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more naturally then wearing a lot of makeup. Be careful, as heavy brows will overpower your face. Shape your eyebrows by tweezing the hairs from underneath, not from above.

• TIP: Tweeze after a shower and it will be less painful. Most people have a good natural shape; it just needs to be defined better.

• TIP: Take the color that is the closest to your eyebrow color and fill in the gaps to make a nicely groomed brow. If in doubt, always go a little lighter then your brow.

EYESHADOW

Rule # 1 about eye shadow; when you look at a women's face, you see her eyes not her eye shadow. The general rule is that light shades, bring out your eyes, darker shades give them dimension. If you have small eyes and want to give the impression of larger eyes, you want to stay with lighter shades. If you have large eyes or protruding eyes, you would want to use darker shades. To prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, and then powder. This gives you a clean canvas for your colorations

The first step of applying eye shadow is to apply a light color over your entire eyelid from lash line to brow. Use a large flat eye shadow brush. Always use good quality brushes.

The second step is to apply a medium shadow color on your lower lid from lash line to the crease of your eye. Use a fluff brush.

The third step is to use your darkest color as a liner and apply along your lash line. To insure shadow will not flake, dampen your eyeliner brush before applying shadow. This will make it last longer.

Once your foundation is on, gradually apply lighter shades first, slowly working up to your final color. An important fact to remember is, use colors that blend together naturally. It's not where you place the colors: it's that they work together and blend together invisibly.

• TIP: You do not want this to look like three separate colors.

GENERAL TIPS

1.     Be careful with shimmery products, especially on your eyes; they tend to collect in creases.

2.     If you have large and open eyes, don’t use loud or bright colors that will over emphasize the fullness. You want them to be soft and keep a person’s attention.

3.     On deep-set eyes, you should use shadow colors that are on the light side of the color spectrum.

4.     For a light or sheer look, dampen sponge before applying foundation.

5.     Don’t test foundation or concealer color on your hand. Match it to the skin on your face and neck.

6.     Make sure you shake your foundation vigorously before applying.

7.     If you have sallow skin, pick a foundation that disappears on your face. To counteract your skin tone choose a pink or rosy blush.

8.     If your mascara thickens when it reaches the end of the tube, place tube in warm water. That will help make the mascara thinner.

9.     Don’t pump your mascara wand into the mascara container. This pushes air in the container and makes the mascara dry out faster. Gently insert the wand, turn two or three times, then remove and apply to lashes

10. Always use less mascara on your lower lashes.

11. For clumpy eyelashes, use a lash comb to remove clumps.

12. If you have problems under the eye such as dark circles, bags, uneven skin tones, wrinkled skin, etc…. these problems will become more obvious if you apply mascara to the bottom lashes.

13. Even if you do not use foundation or concealer a powder will give the skin a matte finished appearance.

14. Powder makes things stay in place whether it is cream based products that move around or foundations, pencils or concealers.

15. Makeup lasts longer with powder application

16. Powder stops shine. Don’t over powder; it is healthy to have some sheen.

17. Before applying powder make sure there are no lines or creases. Once you powder, it will stay put.

18. If your face is very moist, blot first gently with a tissue, otherwise the powder will clump.

19. Put a light layer of powder under the eyes before applying eye shadow. If color falls when applying color, it can be gently whisked away after you have finished your application.

20. Too much color? Dust on a layer of loose powder or pressed powder to take off the edge.

21. Don’t worry about matching your lip color to your blush; just keep it in the same color family.

22. The thinner your lips, the more neutral your lip color should be.

23. Mixing colors is the best way to vary your lipstick shades.

24. Avoid true red shades if your face is blotchy, irritated or ruddy. Your lips will draw attention to your skin.

25. A great way to organize your lipsticks or use up the end of your lipstick is to dig out or cut off a chunk of lip color and place it in a lipstick palette case.

26. Pale shades of lipstick make lips look fuller.

27. To enhance a pout, dab a silver lip-gloss onto the center of your lower lip.

28. If lip liner is too dark tone it down with a small amount of foundation then reapply lip liner.

29. Vitamin E oil gives your lips a topcoat plus seals in color. This also creates instant shine and helps to protect sensitive areas.

30. To prevent lipstick from getting on your teeth, put your finger in your mouth and close your lips-when you withdraw your finger it will remove excess color.

31. When tweezing your eyebrows first apply Ambesol to numb the area.

32. Invest in a good tweezers, we recommend Tweezerman.

33. If you are thinking of lightening your brows, try colored mascara first to see what they would look like.

34. If you want your eyebrows to stay in place, put clear mascara on them or a little hairspray on an eyebrow groomer and brush to desired shape.

35. Concealer doesn’t have to be worn with any makeup or powder. Sometimes all you need is a little concealer and something on your lips. Make sure your concealer is one or two shades lighter then your skin. Women insist on using the lightest concealer. Concealer should be applied as sparingly as possible. You don’t want it to be cakey or thick.

bobbi brown

Look #One:   

Foundation: Prime the skin with a moisturizer according to your skin's needs.
Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your skin tone and if you need more coverage use Professional Concealer under the eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.

Follow with your skin tone correct shade of Moisturizing Foundation for a sheer, dewy complexion.

Blush: Using your fingers, smile and apply Sand Pink Cream Blush Stick across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline, then blend down to soften the edges (for darker skin tones, use Soft Plum Cream Blush Stick).

Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using the Powder Puff on the forehead, chin and nose, avoiding the cheeks.

Brows: Using the Eye Brow Brush and a shadow the same tone as your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with Powder Puff if necessary.

Eyes: Begin with a sweep of White Eye Shadow across the entire lid and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use Shell Eye Shadow).

Using the Eye Shadow Brush apply Grey Eye Shadow across the lid from the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease.

Follow with the Eye Liner Brush (damp), applying a soft line of Slate Eye Shadow close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Charcoal Eye Shadow).

Finish with one coat of Black Thickening Mascara.

Lips: Apply Pink Berry Lip Stain or Pink Lip Color and line with either Nude or Pink Lip Pencil .

Top with a touch of Petal Pink Lip Gloss.

For a richer look, mix Pink and Chocolate Lip Color topped with White Lip Gloss.

Nails: Apply Pink Sheer Nail Wash.

Tip: Customize your lip color by experimenting with various lip pencils.
Using Pink, Nude, Raisin or Chocolate Lip Pencil you can brighten any lip.

Look #Two: 

Foundation: Prime the skin with Face Lotion or Hydrating Face Cream according to your skin's needs.

Use Concealer Brush to apply Foundation Stick one shade lighter than your skin tone or, if necessary, Professional Concealer under the eyes and to any uneven areas of the face.

Follow with your skin tone correct shade of appropriate foundation to even out the complexion. Set foundation with a light dusting of Loose Face Powder using Powder Puff. Brush off any excess using Powder Brush.

Brows: Using Eye Brow Brush and a shadow that is the same tone as your hair color, start at the inner corner following the natural shape of your brow to create an arch. Use light, feathering strokes and soften color with Powder Puff if necessary.

Eyes: Begin with a sweep of Bone Eye Shadow across the entire lid and up to the brow bone using the Eye Shader Brush (for darker skin tones, use Banana Shadow).

Using Eye Shadow Brush apply Banana Eye Shadow across the lid from the lashes 3/4 of the way up past the crease (for darker complexions, apply Toast Eye Shadow).

Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Contour Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Eye Definer Brush apply Cedar Eye Shadow above the crease and under the brow bone and blend inward. Use Blender Brush to soften the contour.

Using Eye Definer Brush apply a line or Rich Brown Eye Shadow around the entire eye close to the lash line (for darker complexions use Mahogany Eye Shadow). Make sure to tap brush on the back of the hand for a soft smudgy line.

Finish with one coat of Dark Brown Thickening Mascara.
Option: Apply a touch of Pale Yellow Shimmer Eye Shadow on the lid or brow bone using your index finger.

Blush: Using the Bronzer Brush, smile and apply light Bronzing Powder across the apples of the cheeks and back towards the hairline.
Blend down to soften the edges.

For a pop of color, follow with Apricot Blush applied to the apple of the cheek (for darker skin tones use Medium or Dark Bronzing Powder followed by Apricot Blush).

Lips: Apply Garnet Lip Shimmer lined with Cola Lip Pencil. Honey Lip Gloss can be layered on top to give the lips a fabulous glow.
Option: Use Malt Lip Shimmer lined Chocolate Lip Pencil layered with Honey Lip Gloss.

Nails: Layer Brown Shimmer Nail Wash over Brown Sheer Nail Wash.

Tip: For an evening face line the lips with Red or Chocolate Lip Pencil.
 

Wide-Set Eyes...are more than one eye-length apart.

Your Goal: Make your eyes look closer together by emphasizing
the inner third of the eye.

Line: Starting at the inner corners, line the eye completely, top and bottom.

Accent: Apply light shade on the outer 2/3 of the lid, lashes to browbone, brushing towards the outer corners.

Define: Sweep your deep color on the inside third of the lid, brushing towards the inner corner of eyes. Shadow from lashes to just below the browbone. Blend edges into the light shade to get a soft gradation of color.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Center a little highlighter just under the brow in the middle of the eye.

Brows & Lashes: Accent color a little heavier at the beginning of brows. Don't extend brow color beyond your natural line. Apply lashcolor evenly on upper and lower lashes, with an extra coat or two on the lashes closest to the inner corner of the eye.

Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-Set Eyes ... are recessed or shadowed by a prominent brow bone. Lids may be hidden and the eyebrows appear close to the eyes.

Your Goal: Make the eyes look more open, less recessed.

Line: Using a fine line, outline upper and lower lids evenly.

Accent: Sweep light color over the entire lid, lashes to brows.

Define: Stroke your deep shade just ABOVE (not in) the eye's natural crease. Blend lightly at the edges to soften. This brings the lid portion 'forward' optically.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Brush a little highlighter in and along the lid crease. Do not blend.

Brows & Lashes: Raise the plane of the brow line by skimming brow color lightly along the tops of brows. Since pale brows make eyes look even more recessed, select brow color a shade or two darker than your natural tone. Mascara top and bottom lashes lavishly.

Prominent ("Bette Davis") Eyes

Prominent Eyes ...are large and may appear to bulge, with prominent upper lids.

Your Goal: Bring the eyes in a little and minimize the top lids.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, with a slightly wider band of liner along the lashes of the lower lid.

Accent: Sweep light shadow horizontally across the browbone to take the focus off the lid area.

Define: Sweep a horizontal band of deep shadow across the whole lid, extending from the inner corner to just beyond the outer edge of the eye. This subtly elongates and minimizes prominent lids.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a dot of highlighter below the arch of the brow.

Brows & Lashes: Emphasize the highest point of the brow to counteract the roundness of the eye shape. Lightly mascara top lashes, concentrating more color on lower lashes.

Round Eyes

Round Eyes ....are shaped almost perfectly oval, not deep-set or overly prominent.

Your Goal: To give eyes more elongation.

Line: Outline both lids evenly, top and bottom, extending eyeliner just beyond the outer corners.

Accent: Focus light color on the outer section of the browbone, brushing outward to elongate the eye. Cover area from browline to lid crease.

Define: Concentrate deep shade at the edge of the eyes, extending color out beyond the eye to elongate.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay a little highlighter on the highest edge of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Extend the outside edges of the brows. Creating an arch will also make the eye look less round. Concentrate mascara on the top lashes, especially on the outer corners of the eyes.

Down-Slanting Eyes

Down-slanting eyes...are eyes that seem to droop downward at the outer edges.

Your Goal: "Lift" the outside edges for a livelier look.

Line: Line upper and lower lids. On the lower lid only, slant the liner upward, extending a bit beyond the outside corner of the eye

Accent: Brush light shade along the browbone, concentrating most
Of the color on the outer edges and slanting upward.

Define: Apply deep color to the outer third of the lid, from lashes to crease. Stroke upward at the outer edge to create a lifting effect.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add a touch of highlighter to the highest point of the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Accent (or create) a gentle arch to give the brow a slight upslant. Focus most of your lashcolor on the upper lashes, especially at the outside corners.

Hooded Eyes

Hooded Eyes ...are eyes with sagging lids and folds of skin around them.

Your Goal: To minimize the hooded effect.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the lids, upper and lower.

Accent: Sweep light color on the highest point of the browbone,
above the crease.

Define: Smooth deep color horizontally over hooded area, (slightly
above the crease of the eyelid).

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Overlay highlight over the browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Shape brows into an arch to "lift' the eye further.
Concentrate most of your mascara on upper and lower lashes from
inner corner to the middle of the eye.

Small Eyes

Small Eyes...are smaller than average, or when compared to the rest of
your features.

Your Goal: Make eyes look larger.

Line: Use a fine line to outline the entire eye. Use a light to medium shade of eyeliner
To avoid "closing" in the eye and making it look even smaller.

Accent: Brush a light shade over the entire lid from lashes to browbone to "open" the entire eye.

Define: Stroke deep shade horizontally, starting from the inner corner, along the lid crease. Extend color slightly past the outer eye corner to widen.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Stroke highlighter under the browline, blending into your light color.

Brows & Lashes: Brush brows up and extend the line of the brows slightly past the eye. Thin brows make eyes look larger. Apply mascara generously on top lashes and lightly on lower lashes.

Asian Eyes

Asian Eyes....are almond-shaped with little or no natural crease in the lid.

Your Goal: Create contrast between eye, lid and browbone.

Line: Line upper and lower lids, keeping line close to lashes.

Accent: Bring out the browbone with your light shade.

Define: Create the effect of a crease in the lid, by starting your deep color
at the inside corner of the eye and drawing it horizontally midway between the lash
line and the brow bone. Blend to avoid an obvious 'stripe' of shadow.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Add highlight on the outer third of browbone.

Brows & Lashes: Giving the brow a slightly arched shape 'opens' the eye. If eyes are small, also extend the edges of browline. Apply mascara generously to upper and lower lashes.

Eye Tips!

Tip! Keep pencil eyeliner from smudging by going over the line with matching powder eyeshadow.

Tip! Another way to line your eyes: Use your favorite deep- toned eyeshadow, wet or dry, with an eyeliner brush.

Tip! Use a white pencil to line the inner edge of the eye to make whites -and eyes-look, brighter and bigger; and to hide any redness.

Tip! Keep a magnifying mirror nearby to check your work.

Tip! Shadow won't stay? Powder lids before you apply your colors.

Tip! Apply an Eye Base first if color settles into crepey areas or lines.

Tip! Less is more! It's easier to build color up layer by layer than to erase too much.

Tip! Clean up slips and smudges as you work with q-tips moistened in eye makeup remover.

 http://fb.women.com/fashionandbeauty/

Tools you'll need:

• Slanted-tip tweezers
• Eyebrow brush
• Astringent to soften skin and anesthetize the area.
• Well-lit mirror. Don't use a magnifying mirror — it will distort the area and make you more likely to overpluck
• Small scissors to trim excess hair
• Brow powder, a brow pencil and tinted brow gel

Optional:

• Brow stencil kit like Senna's Form-A-Brow, or see our Brow Stencil page.

The Brow Bible
Six Steps to Perfect Brows

 

1. Brush brows upward. Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Be careful not to take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.

2. Look closely at the shape. Your brow should begin above your tear duct, peak at the outer edge of your iris and end at the outer corner of your eye. "Many women make the mistake of taking off too much at the outer corners," says Weston. "This slants the brows upward and makes the person look perpetually angry."  They should be level or horizontal at both ends.

3. Prep your skin: Put some astringent on a cotton ball and wipe it across your nose, forehead, cheeks and behind your ears.

4. Hold a pencil in line with the outer side of your iris and note where the peak of your arch naturally occurs. From the arch to the outer corner of the eye, your brow should fall in a straight or slightly curved line, depending on the look you're trying to achieve.

5. Hold the tweezers at a 45-degree angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. Pull in the direction of the hair growth, or you may end up breaking the hair mid-shaft. Follow your natural brow shape — not the trends. It's very difficult to let your brows grow back into their natural shape after you've plucked them to death trying to achieve a particular look.

6. Fill in sparse areas with a freshly sharpened brow pencil. Use light, quick strokes to draw in hair. Brow powder will give thin brows overall definition and is great for a more natural look. Using a brow brush, sweep some powder up and outward over the brows. If you're a brow novice, a tinted brow gel is a foolproof way to keep brows in place. Lightly coat the brows using upward and outward strokes. Wipe off any excess and allow it to set.

Brows

• Plucking too much
• And over-plucking are common problems and unfortunately ones that take time to correct. Let the hair grow in for a month or so before you pick up the tweezers. In the meantime, fill in any bare spots with powder that matches or is one shade darker than your brows. The powder's coverage is lighter than a pencil, but it will keep brows from looking too harsh.
• Thin ends
  To fix this problem, you need to balance out each side of the brow. Fill in brows starting at the middle of the arch and work your way toward the end.
• Too short
  "Brows that end at the arch can make your eyes look smaller," Engle says. Starting at the arch, draw in the remainder of the brow just along the brow bone. Be sure to use pencil the same color as your brows, or it will look unnatural.
• Unshapely
  "Badly shaped brows often happen when you make a mistake and keep plucking to correct it," Weston explains. Place a brow stencil over your brow and line up the edges. Brush powder onto brows and remove the stencil. Carefully tweeze away any hair outside the new shape.
• Waiting too long to tweeze
  When eyebrows become bushy and unruly, it's tempting to just tweeze away with reckless abandon. Instead, trim first, and then brush them back into place. You should start to see their natural shape. Carefully pluck the stray hairs underneath the arch and anything else outside the natural brow line. Never pluck from above.

Waxing vs. Tweezing
While both methods can produce beautifully shaped brows, waxing is best left to the professionals. "One wrong drop of wax and you can take off half of an eyebrow," warns Weston. "And it may not grow back properly." Waxing is also not advised for women who have sensitive skin, sunburn or use Retin-A and other prescription creams.

That being said, if you've never touched your brows, it may be worth your while to invest in a visit to the salon for a consultation and preliminary waxing. Once the aesthetician has shaped your brows, you will be able to maintain them at home.

Well-groomed brows are the basis of any great face. Find out what to do with the other hair on your head in Fall Hair Trends. Match your sleek look with great style from First Call for Fall.

Beyond Beauty Jane Pratt

Recommendations....

Skin: Foaming cleanser-Aubrey-health food stores

               Also  Clarins @$15.

Skin Care (naturals=best)-Aveda and /or Ling (Soho) / Clinique=bad

Exfoliation-Apricot scrub or oatmeal=best. Buff Puff=bad (too rough)

               Scrub once/week, no more  

Use natural clay masks once/week=pull out toxins, oil and impurities (Natural kaolin=best). Queen Helene (“The Cocktail Facial-$4.)

Drinks lots of water, fruits and vegetables (esp. greens) Avoid sugar and fried foods. Alcohol, smoking and soda are bad too.

Stress=meditation, yoga and relaxation/breathing exercises

Foundation: MAC Face and Body

Concealer: MAC (solids)

Powders: Revlon smooth textures (more milling)

Brows: Max Factor Brow Tamer

               Concealer to lighten and shadow for glimmer-y effect=modern, cool

Shadow: apply with natural brush for best blending MAC/Drug Emporium

White shimmer-y, warm lighter green, and gold’s-MAC

Liner: dark gray, brown, black, dark blue and dark green. Dark matte eye shadow applied with sponge-tip applicator. MAC, Chanel, Lancôme. Liner pens; for darker look apply with small thin flat brushes. Not too much on lower-looks heavy and dated. Inside lower lid is hip-blend with sponge-tip applicator into lower lash line.

Throw out before 12 months.

Curl lashes, wash curler every two weeks

Mascara-Brown is more modern, curved brushes are best. Waterproof is harder to get off-use only if needed. Maybelline two coats to upper lashes, extra to outer=cat-eye effect.

Blush: keep it simple and don’t over do it, wear a little. Balances face between lips and face. Bronze, copper or pinky.  Chanel Tempting beige=best color ever! MAC shades for both shadow and blush. Use natural-hair brush or cotton puff-not synthetic cotton balls or pads, only cotton. Apply to apples of cheeks and then outwards, also temples and forehead for color and balance. Cream blush is easy to apply with sponge. Blend

Lips: need color and moisture. Find one or two and stay with those. Never match to outfit. Stay away from super matte/dark browns.  Try light formulas-sheers, frost and shimmers; pearl shades-bronze, soft lavender, rose and cherry for a softer effect. Kiehl’s Golden Berry. Go darker or brighter than natural color. Darker=burgundy, wine, rose-brown; brighter-cherry or red, well blended. Let natural lip color show through. Use lip liner to build up thinner lips, blend inward. MAC (Spice & Nutmeg), Chanel (Nude), Max Factor (Nude).

The Brushes of the Trade

A Review by Jenelle

Concealer - dab on dark circles, broken capillaries, blemishes, or anything you want to hide

Loose Powder - apply with a big, fluffy brush to give a smooth finish to your skin without the heavy look of foundation

Blush - apply lightly to the apples of your cheeks to give you a bit of natural color; skip this step if you are naturally rose-y

Mascara - one coat gives soft but noticeable definition to your eyes

Lip balm, gloss, or sheer lipstick - keep it soft and simple, no lip liner

You have never, or hardly ever, used make-up products. You're concerned about your appearance, but never quite know how to make the most of your natural beauty. You don't dare experiment too much because you're frightened the result might not be exactly what you had in mind! We think you'll be interested by what we've got to say...
Let us guide you towards your first, real make-up successes.

Under-eyes circles? Blemishes? Skin discoloration? Broken capillaries? Shiny skin? Don't let a few imperfections here and there get you down! Even the super models get them sometimes - they just know how to hide them!
And there you are, all made up. No one will notice the make-up, but everybody will suddenly wonder why it is that you're looking so good. That's the magic of makeup with natural, 'built-in' success!

Tonight, you're going to be the most attractive woman out there! 
You've decided to really go for a total transformation; a look like you might see around the nightclubs. Have fun and relish the transformation, because above all, make-up should be something to enjoy.

A final check in the mirror...and Cinderella shall go to the ball!  This is but the beginning of your voyage of make-up discovery!

Try these links:

http://www.maccosmetics.com/

http://redbook.women.com/rb/time/makeover/00make11.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/mbody.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blhtidx.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blreaderstips.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blskincare.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blfoundationtips.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/bleyemakeuptips.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blperfume.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blnails.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/bllipsticktips.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blfacialstructure.htm

http://beauty.about.com/style/beauty/library/blmisctips.htm

What Skin-Care Products Are Appropriate for

African-American Skin?

The Skin Care Scoop While many women of color feel their skin care needs differ from those of Caucasian women, nothing could be further from the truth. Regardless of color or ethnic background, all skin is subject to a range of virtually identical problems with similar considerations. Whether it is dry or oily skin, blemishes, scarring, wrinkles, skin discolorations, rashes, rosacea, sensitivity, or sun damage, the diagnosis, prognosis, and treatment is the same for all men and women. There are certainly some distinctions between varying ethnic groups when it comes to skin problems and skin-care options, but overall these differences are minor in comparison to the number of similarities. Think of it this way: regardless of skin color, dietary needs remain the same. A high-calorie diet results in weight gain, an unhealthy diet can cause health risks, and if you don't eat you die, regardless of your skin color. As far as skin care goes, skin is an organ (the largest in the human body) and needs the same ingredients and formulations to be healthy or to deal with various skin concerns.

Research on this topic supports the points above while also noting the distinctive traits between ethnic skin tones, though these traits don't mean different products are needed for treatment. According to an article in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (February 2002, pages 41–62) "There is not a wealth of data on racial and ethnic differences in skin and hair structure, physiology, and function. What studies do exist involve small patient populations and often have methodological flaws. Consequently, few definitive conclusions can be made. The literature does support a racial differential in epidermal melanin [pigment] content and melanosome dispersion in people of color compared with fair-skinned persons…. These differences could at least in part account for the lower incidence of skin cancer in certain people of color compared with fair-skinned persons; a lower incidence and different presentation of photo aging; pigmentation disorders in people with skin of color; and a higher incidence of certain types of alopecia [loss of hair] in Africans and African Americans compared with those of other ancestry." While skin cancer may not be as much of a threat or concern, skin discolorations resulting from unprotected sun exposure or hormonal concerns are the same as that for women with lighter skin.

If there is any difference noted in the research it is the imperative need to treat darker skin tones gently. When irritated, darker skin tones can stimulate hyper-pigmentation causing patches of dark or grayish skin discolorations. Though this is easily treated, the main focus should be prevention. Given my fervent belief over the years that all skin types need to be treated gently, it's encouraging there is research pointing that way for women of color as well. When skin is irritated it cannot protect itself from the environment, it causes collagen and elastin to break down, it hurts the skin's immune response, and can cause skin to become dry and flaky.

Regardless of skin color or ethnicity, all skin needs a gentle cleanser, effective exfoliant, state-of-the-art moisturizer (over dry areas), a sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater containing UVA-protecting ingredients of avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide, and appropriate treatments for skin discolorations (hydroquinone-based products), blemishes, and wrinkles.

(Sources for this article: Dermatologic Clinics, July 2005, pages 575-581; Cutis, August 2005, pages 19-23 and February 2004, pages 3-13; Dermatologic Therapy, June 2004, page 184; and Dermatologic Surgery, January 1999, pages 18-22.)
 

Ask The Makeup Diva!

http://www.makeupdiva.com/

Q: I keep hearing about alpha hydroxy acids, but I feel clueless!
What are they and what do they do to my skin?

A: Alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, is a general term used to describe a variety of skin-safe acids, like glycolic (derived from sugar cane), malic (derived from apples) and lactic (derived from milk), which exfoliate your skin chemically rather than manually (like with a grainy scrub or washcloth). AHAs slough off the dead skin cells by breaking up the chemical bonds they have with the surface of your skin.

What can this exfoliation do for your skin? It is actually great for just about every skin type because it helps eliminate the build-up of dead cells that can clog your pores and cause blemishes, and it can make your skin replace old, damaged cells with new, fresher ones faster. With continued use, an AHA can make fine lines soften, improve your skin's overall texture and color, and reduce the number
and severity of breakouts.
Unfortunately, not all AHAs are created equally, but you don't have to pay $50 or $75 for a fancy department store brand to see results; many of the inexpensive drugstore brands are actually more effective. When shopping for an AHA product, here are a few things to keep in mind:

1. Make sure the AHA you choose has at least one of the well known, proven AHA ingredients, like glycolic, lactic, malic, or even tartaric (from red wine) acid. Products labeled with only "miscellaneous fruit acids" have not been proven to work as effectively, although they can sound persuasive from a "natural versus chemical" standpoint.

2. AHAs come in lotions, creams, and serums/gels, so choose the one that best suits your skin type. Lotions are great for most any skin type, creams are for drier skin, and serums or gels work well for someone with oily or acne-prone skin.

3. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive and vulnerable to sun damage, so be sure to use them in conjunction with a daily sunscreen that has at least SPF 15 broad spectrum protection.

4. AHAs can cause some irritation, even if you aren't usually sensitive, so stick to a "less is more" philosophy. If you are just starting with an AHA, use a low percentage (4-5% concentration), gentle product only once a day, or once every other day. If your skin reacts well to it, consider increasing to daily morning and night use.

Mild stinging when you first apply an AHA is normal, but it should subside after a minute or two. Continued stinging is not considered normal, so you should immediately stop using any product that irritates your skin. If you try using it again in smaller amounts or less frequently and it still causes a problem, don't be afraid to return it to the store for a refund.

Here are a few brands to consider:

o Alpha Hydrox 5% lotion for sensitive skin, 8% lotion, or 10%
enhanced oil-free gel (glycolic acid)
o Pond's Age Defying Complex (8% glycolic acid)
o Avon Anew All-in-One Perfecting Complex (4% glycolic) or
All-in-One Intensive Complex (8% glycolic)
o Circle of Beauty All Even AHA serum (8% lactic acid)
o Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion (8% glycolic acid)
o Philosophy Hope in a Jar (lactic acid)
o BeautiControl Regeneration Gold (lactic and tartaric acids)

Q: When is it best to apply a clarifying mask? Before or after cleansing? Moisturizing?
A: Doing a mini-facial at home is a great treat for your skin, and for yourself.
Whether your skin needs purifying, hydrating, or soothing, always start with clean skin. Use a mild, nondrying cleanser, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry. Apply your mask of choice following the product instructions. When the mask is "done", remove it gently, usually with a warm washcloth (unless it's a peel-off variety), and splash your skin thoroughly with lukewarm to cool water. Follow up with your favorite toner or freshener, and then apply your moisturizer or night treatment.
It's that easy! For normal skin, I recommend a mask once a week. For oily skin, two to three times a week is a great way to keep oil and breakouts at bay. If you have dry skin, a hydrating mask once a week can really help, but keep the deep cleansing varieties for once-a-month treatments.

Q: I keep reading conflicting advice about how to put on foundation. Which is better: using a makeup sponge or just your fingers?
A: When it comes to the "correct" way to apply makeup, most makeup artists have different ideas of what's "right" and what's "wrong". Here are some things to consider about applying foundation:
Using your fingers:
• Gives you hands-on control over where the product goes
• Warms the foundation so it spreads more easily
• Gives a full coverage look
• Allows for precise blending in hard-to-reach areas (like around your nose and eyes)
Using a sponge:
• Is sanitary and won't transfer oils from your hands to your face
• Gives a sheer or medium coverage look that is more natural than full coverage
• Gives a very smooth and even application
Personally, I like using a sponge because I don't want to risk transferring oils and bacteria from my hands to my face (especially in acne-prone areas), I like the control I have with a sponge, and the look and feel of the makeup is more polished. I find using my fingers can get messy and often look uneven. Try both and see which method works best for you!

Q: What's the best eye gel for smoothing fine lines under and around the eye area? - Drew H.
Q: I'm 18 and have wrinkles under my eyes. How do I get rid of them? - Cathy
Q: I am 28 years old and I'm starting to get fine lines around my eye area. My regular eye cream and concealer don't seem to help anymore. Is there anything else I can do? - Toni B.
A: The eye area is one of first places on your face to show stress, aging, fatigue - all of the things you'd rather not reveal! The effects come in the form of puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, and crow's feet (those charming lines and creases in the outer corners). Is there anything we can do?
Before we attempt to treat any damage that's already there, it's important to make a commitment to reducing the chance of new damage. This means protection from the sun, and it needs to be a year-round part of your regular skin care. Whether in an eye cream or a regular moisturizer, choose at least an SPF 15 product with a broad-spectrum protection sunscreen ingredient like Parsol 1789, titanium dioxide, or avobenzone. Apply it every day as your final skin care step before your makeup to help prevent lines and wrinkles from sun damage.
Now that you are on the right track to protecting your skin, what can you use for the fine lines you have now? A moisturizing eye cream with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, propylene or butylene glycol, or glycerin that trap water in your skin can plump up the lines temporarily, so they look less pronounced. The key word here, however, is "temporarily", because eye creams only make the eye area look better when you are wearing them. To actually diminish the lines, you enter into the realm of Retin-A, alpha hydroxy acids, and vitamin A (retinol) creams, which can be irritating and costly. Try to get samples of these types of products when you can to see if it might make a difference for you.
To reduce puffiness, your best bet is to treat the affected area with a lightweight eye gel containing chamomile, green tea, cucumber, or aloe. I would also recommend drinking plenty of fluids, using a cool compress or some cucumber slices if you can, and getting enough rest (easier said than done, I know).
You know what kind of product you need, now comes the fun part - shopping! Here are a few of my personal favorites to consider:
L'Oreal Revitalift Eye (around $10) moisturizes the eye area, and absorbs quickly and completely without feeling greasy or heavy. Revitalift Eye easily compares in quality to more expensive creams from Clarins (Extra Firming Eye Contour Cream $42.50), Bobbi Brown (Eye Cream $32.50) or Lancome (Primordiale Yeux $40) - all without the sticker shock. Remember: price does not always equal quality. Just because an eye cream costs $50 and claims to erase years from your face doesn't mean it will.
Avon Anew Perfect Eye Care Cream SPF 15 ($12.50) includes sun protection, which helps prevent wrinkles from sun damage, and its lightweight texture absorbs quickly, perfect for under makeup.
If ever an eye treatment could pass for a slice of real cucumber, Pond's Soothing Cucumber Eye Treatments (around $8 for jar of 24) can! With cucumber, green tea, chamomile, cornflower, orange peel, and rose hip extracts, plus aloe vera gel and vitamin E, these pads feel heavenly after a long day, or while soaking in the tub. Keep them in the fridge for the ultimate cooling sensation.
Clinique All About Eyes ($25) is, in my opinion, the best of Clinique's selection of eye creams. It successfully combines the benefits of a gel (reduces puffiness, feels cooling and soothing on the skin) with the moisturizing and smoothing properties of a cream. The texture is very silky and makes a fantastic base for eye makeup without crumbling or creasing.
I saved my advice about dark circles for last because they are the trickiest concern of all. Creams and gels won't really change the discoloration, and some cases of dark circles are hereditary, meaning no amount of sleep or proper nutrition will make a difference. The best weapon is a good concealer and careful application to hide the shadows. Choose a medium weight cream or stick concealer that matches your overall skin tone and has some yellow in it to counteract the bluish purple of the shadow. Apply it with a small brush and gently tap it into the skin with your finger (don't rub).

Q: I have small eyes. How can I make them appear larger?
A: The most invaluable makeup lesson I've learned over the years is the use of color. Just like in art, light makes things appear larger and more prominent, while darkness and shadows make things appear to recede and look smaller. If you want your eyes to appear larger, choose light to medium eye shadow colors for all over and save the darker shades for lining your eyes. Here's a handy guide to choosing eye shadow colors:


If your hair color is...
Then try these shadow colors
Blonde, Light Brown, or Strawberry Blonde/Red Highlight: light beige or cream
Lid: taupe, light gray, or light plum
Liner: dark brown, navy, or slate gray
Brown or Auburn Highlight: beige, very light yellow, or light pink
Lid: taupe, medium brown, or slate gray
Liner: mahogany, navy, or charcoal
Dark Brown or Black Highlight: light yellow, light pink, or light brown
Lid: chocolate brown, dark gray, or sable
Liner: mahogany or charcoal
To make your eyes appear larger, sweep the highlight color you've chosen all over your lid and up to the brow bone. Use a small eye shadow or crease brush to apply a soft sweep of the medium shade in the crease of your lid, or on the outside corner, making sure to blend the color well. To line your eyes, use a flat or angled liner brush to apply the darkest of your three colors in a very thin, soft line along the lash line. Personally, I line only the top lid, not the bottom, but you should try both ways and see which you like better. If you get the liner color as close as possible to the base of your lashes, this technique will also make your lashes appear thicker.
As a finishing touch, apply your favorite mascara on the top lashes only. This makes the eye look larger and more open. You're done!


1. "I want to lengthen my lashes"
2. "I want a high definition mascara"
3. "I dream of long, curled eyelashes"
4. "My lashes are thin, I want to thicken them"
5. "I need a mascara that is sweat-proof, water-proof and weather-proof."
6. "I want a water-proof mascara"
7. "I want a fortifying lash conditioner"

Q: I am looking for mascara that won't smudge. I have tried many brands and types including waterproof types but after a while the mascara leaves smudge marks under the eyes. Help!
A: One of the most important steps to preventing eye makeup meltdown is powder. If the eye area is oily, over moisturized, or in any way moist, none of your eye makeup will make it through lunch, let alone through the entire day. Make sure when you moisturize, especially around your eyes that it has completely absorbed before you apply your makeup. If you have oily skin, powder should be your best friend. Be generous on oily areas, and be sure to press some onto eyelids and around the eye area (lightly, so it doesn't cake). Powder will lock in foundation and concealer and help keep mascara and liner from running.

Q: What mascaras are really the best, both from bargain and expensive brands?
A: Mascara can be a very personal cosmetic, but I have some definite favorites! Whether you prefer thickening, lengthening, or just basic defining, here is my complete list of tested mascaras, including a handy rating system.

Simply the Best
**** Bobbi Brown (both defining or thickening formulas)
**** Chanel Instant Lash
**** Max Factor 2000 Calorie
Really Great
*** Jane Flashes
*** Chanel Sculpting Mascara Extreme Length
*** Maybelline Volum Express
*** Almay Amazing Lash Waterproof
*** M Professional
*** Maybelline Lash by Lash
*** Lancome Definicils
*** Estee Lauder More than Mascara
Good but Pretty Basic
** Stila
** L'Oreal Lash Out
** Nat Robbins Stay Put
** BeneFit
** Mary Kay Conditioning
** English Ideas Duo Lash
** Estee Lauder Lash Luxe
** MAC
People Actually Buy This?
* Jane Outer Limits
* Naturistics Long Shot lengthening mascara
* Maybelline Great Lash
* Garden Botanika
* Cover Girl Natural Lash Darkener
When it comes to mascara, try a few brands to see what suits your eyes the best. Good mascara shouldn't clump, smear, cake, flake, or look spiky, and it doesn't have to cost a fortune. One last tip: always replace your mascara every 3-4 months to prevent eye infections, especially for sensitive eyes and contact lens wearers.

Stila Brow Filler or Brow Definer
Although these colors look just like eye shadows, they actually have more pigment, so you need less and the color will last longer. Just like other powders, simply fill in the bare spots of your brows with a small amount of color applied with a stiff, angled brush. These two shades from Stila are natural and go well with most coloring.
After applying the color, brush through it with an old toothbrush, a clean mascara wand style brush (MAC #24, for example), or a stiff, angled makeup brush. Finally, set the color with a coat of a clear brow gel like Origins Brow Fix to keep the hairs in place. You can even do the gel by itself if you don't need or want any color.

Q: I can't keep my lipstick on for longer than 5 minutes. I have tried all the tricks, but nothing has worked. What can I do? You're my last hope!
A: Lipstick isn't made to last 24 hours, but you can get more from your favorite color with a few simple techniques.
1. Start with moisturized, but not overly moist, lips
Apply a lip balm or vitamin E stick at least 15 minutes before you apply your lipstick so it can absorb fully.
2. Choose a long-wearing, matte or demi-matte lipstick formula
Avoid lipsticks that are greasy or very creamy. A few good choices are:
o any MAC matte formula
o Maybelline Great Wear
o Revlon ColorStay
o L'Oreal Colour Endure or Lancome Rouge Idole
3. Fill in your lips completely with liner
Choose a liner that either matches your lipstick or your natural lip color, line your lips, and fill them in completely with color. Lip liner is a bit drier than lipstick and will help your lipstick last longer.
4. Apply, blot, apply, blot, and apply...
Apply your lipstick, blot off the excess, and repeat until you have the depth of color you want. You can also add a light dusting of loose powder over your blotted lips, and then apply the lipstick again to help lock the color in.
5. Carry your liner and lipstick with you
Have your liner and lipstick handy in case you need to touch up. Your lipstick won't last forever, but these easy tricks will help it at least last through lunch!
Lip Gloss Revolution!
Personal Favorites from our Panelist, Pam
The significance of gloss has crept upon the beauty market in a wondrous way. Now almost every major line of cosmetics has added gloss to the mix. Whether you are a Gloss Novice, or a complete Gloss Maven, there is a gloss choice for everyone.
Gloss Novice
You're a "gloss novice" if you're not quite ready for lip vinyl but are willing to take a chance with a dewy pout. Take those first baby steps with a balm; though not technically a gloss by definition, balms are the easiest way to get a handle on slick lips without having to commit to color and texture variances. Try one of these novice choices:

• Bonne Bell Lip Smacker Dr. Pepper – gentle, transparent, cherry
• Kiehl's Baby Lip Balm – lustrous, jeweled, sheer, very emollient
• Natural Glow Lip Treats Honey – warm, clear, shine
• Old Navy Groovy Grapefruit Lip Balm – smooth, sheer, finish
Gloss Intermediate
If you are ready to experiment with color, texture and application, then you've reached the intermediate stage of Gloss World. Don't be afraid to pick up a wand and give it a whirl, finger-paint or use a brush for application. Once you've mastered the basics, try mixing a gloss with your favorite lip liner and/or dabbed on top of your favorite lipstick. Try one of these intermediate choices:

• Cargo Flin Flon Gloss – opalescent white peach/opalescent white lavender
• Hard Candy Angel - frosty, yellow, beige, pastel
• Lorac Pink Lip Gloss – white-baby-pink, soft shimmer
• Nars Sunset Strip Wand Gloss – sheer/shimmer orange
• Nars Harlow Wand Gloss – sheer, shimmer, lilac, beige
• Poppy Shine Maraschino – moist, berry, glow
• Shu Uemura (Red/Abricot) – sheer, gentle, orange, red shine
• Stila Nude Shine – creamy, light, brown
Gloss Maven
Welcome to the world of a Gloss Maven - shine is now your middle name. Wand, brush or pot gloss, the sky is the limit! Beware though; things could get sticky. Never fear - in the world of gloss, sticky can be a very good thing. Sticky glosses will hold the shine longer and, if worn over a lipstick/lip liner, extend the longevity of application. It's time to try the best of the best maven choices:

• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss White – pure, creamy, white
• Bobbi Brown Lip Gloss Petal – delicate, salmon, pink
• Clinique Glosswear SPF8 (Honey Bee) – peachy, beige
• FACE Pot Gloss Heavenly – sheer, shimmer, mauve
• Kiehl's Stick Gloss Red – lasting, vibrant, true, red
• Poppy Shine 14K – dense, creamy, white, gold
• Prescriptives Lip Lacquer (Voodoo) – deep, plum, grape
• MAC Lipglass – clear vinyl - extremely sticky
• Revlon Line & Shine Nude – creamy, pink/brown gloss & beige liner
• Nars Lip Lacquer Caribia – sheer, shimmer, copper, brown
Makeup Removers

Concealer advice for women over 40

This week we've got a great article on concealer advice for women over 40 from our Panelist Brita:

"When it comes to under eye concealers, it really doesn't matter what you use - no brand is perfect. Here are my tips to making the most of the concealer you choose:

*First, try to repair any damage in the eye area with a glycolic cream. Keep this area well moisturized.
*You're never going to cover the area totally. A Fifty percent improvement is realistic, concealer is half the story. You also have to play up your lashes and brows so this area is less prominent. *Whatever concealer you use, less is better than more. Also, how and where you apply it is very important. Dot it on with a brush, cotton swab, or sponge applicator, and then blend very gently with a sponge.
*I like a two-step process to cover the discoloration with a mauve correcting concealer, and then blend a flesh tone over it. I also like to warm up the color on my hand, and then apply it with a brush.

*Don't put concealer on the entire under eye area - it will crease. Concentrate on the area next to the nose, above and below the eye. *If under eye bags are really prominent, gently ice this area before applying makeup.
While I've found that most brands are relatively the same, here are a few that I've had particular success with: Trish McEvoy is good for a high end brand; Revlon for a low end. The Body shop wand concealer is good for touch-ups. The mauve undercoat I
use is a Joe Blasco stage product. I've found it makes all the difference.

The basic difference in brands is in tones - most of the cheaper ones are too pink - and thickness. However, if you warm them up before using them, the consistency is pretty much the same."

Lipstick compact: something new and fun from MAC
For something new and fun from MAC right now, I highly recommend their lipstick compact to those of you in Nordstrom territory (the compact was created for the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale going on now). For $24 you get a handy refillable palette compact filled with some of MAC's best sellers, like taupe, fetish, gel, pivot, twig, rizzo, and clear vitamin E stick. I love the enclosed lip brush, which is of the same quality as all of MAC's brushes, only smaller (not some cheezy throw-away). This compact is great for purse, travel, and mixing your own shades on the go.

FYI - If you are a makeup maven like me but don't have access to MAC where you live, you can still satisfy your craving by ordering products through MAC's mail order line (1-800-387-6707).

Q: What is the best make-up to wear with red lipstick? It's all the rage right now and it looks sensational when done right. What do you recommend?
A: My favorite look to go with red lips is great looking skin, subtle and sheer eye color, and soft blush. Start with Concealer and/or foundation in the areas you need it for a flawless finish on your skin. Depending on your coloring, choose a soft neutral eye shadow for all over the lid, like something brown based or cream. Skip liner, or do a simple thin line very close to the base of your lashes in dark brown or charcoal, then a coat or two of mascara just to help define your eyes. Since the focus is on your lips, use a liner that matches your lipstick, and apply your lipstick with a lip brush for the best coverage and control. For blush, I like to use something subtle that's close to the shade I naturally blush. That's all there is to it!

Deciphering Cosmetic Labels
The ingredient labels on cosmetics these days might as well be in Greek. What is all that stuff?
With the huge growth in not only the number of cosmetic lines we have to choose from these days, but also the sheer number of products each of them has, it's no wonder that our skin is becoming more sensitive and more confused than ever before. Making sense out of what's in your cosmetics and skin care will not only make you feel more empowered about what you're putting on your skin, but it will help you learn what ingredients to look for, and which ones to avoid.
The Lowdown on Ingredients
Here's a handy guide to some of the basic ingredients you'll find in cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and masks. Remember when reading a cosmetic ingredient label that the ingredients are listed from most to least, just like a packaged food label.
• Sodium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate - detergent cleanser that is effective but can be drying and irritating to your skin. The "laureth" version is gentler but can still dry the skin. Other similar cleansing agents are:
o TEA-lauryl sulfate
o Cocamide DEA
o Ammonium lauryl (or laureth) sulfate
o Magnesium laureth sulfate
o Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
o Triethanolamine
• Polyethylene glycol (PEG) - gives an emollient feel, or "slip", to a product like a cleanser or lotion. Similar slip agents include:
o Polysorbates
o Propylene glycol
o Polypropylene glycol
o Butylene glycol
o Hexylene glycol
o Isopropyl myristate (may clog pores in some people)
• Methylparaben - a common preservative found in most cosmetics to guard against bacteria, fungus, yeast, and mold. Some people with especially sensitive skin may have reaction to these preservatives. Other parabens include:
o Propylparaben
o Butylparaben
o Ethylparaben
Other preservatives that can be irritating to the skin are Imidazolidinyl urea, Quaternium-15, and 2-bromo-2-nitropane-1, 3-diol
Glycerin - an extremely common ingredient that attracts and binds water to the skin. Check your labels for these other water-binders:
o Propylene glycol
o Polypropylene glycol
o Butylene glycol
o Hexylene glycol
o Caprylic/capric/lauric triglycerides
o Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone
o Fatty acids like Stearic acid and Linoleic acid
o Hyaluronic acid (a protein)
o Sodium PCA (found in all living cells, helps to maintain water balance)
o Collagen (a protein that makes up the support structure of your skin)
o Ceramide
o Elastin (a protein that helps skin stay elastic)
o Lecithin (found naturally in eggs, milk, sunflower seeds, soybeans, and some vegetables)
• Kaolin- a white Chinese clay that helps to absorb oil on the surface of the skin. It is common in clay-based facial masks and cleansers, but be aware that it may over-dry your skin if it high on the product's ingredient list. Another common clay which comes from volcanic ash, and might also be in clay-based masks or cleansers, is Bentonite.
• Squalane - a nutrient-rich oil present in human sebum that is also a natural anti-bacterial and healer. It spreads evenly and can penetrate deeper and more readily than most other oils. Other moisturizing ingredients include:
o Isopropyl palmitate
o Glyceryl stearate
o PEG-100 stearate
o Petrolatum
o Plant oils like avocado, apricot, peach kernel, and sweet almond
Thanks to the Educated Beauty Cosmetic Dictionary, "What's in your Cosmetics?" by Aubrey Hampton (Odonian Press, 1995) and product labels from Kiehl's, Garden Botanika, Lancome, BeneFit, and Alpha Hydrox for the research information.
 

NOTE: Estee Lauder's holdings ~ Aramis, Clinque, Prescriptives, Origins, M.A.C., La Mer, Bobbi Brown, Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan, Aveda and Stila Cosmetics have all been bought by the Estee Lauder house.

MAKEUP: EYES QUESTIONS

I have so many after-work parties this season. How can I look great quickly, without bringing all of my makeup to work?

"There's no need to lug around a ton of makeup or spend a lot of time transforming your day makeup into an evening look," says New York City makeup maestro Paula Dorf. Stash these four holiday products in your desk and follow these simple steps to go from day to play in five minutes flat.

First, freshen up greasy-looking foundation with Sephora Collection Oil Blotting Papers. They remove excess oil and shine from your skin without disturbing your makeup. Next, say goodbye to tired eyes with EyeLite, Paula Dorf's light diffusing camouflage cream that brightens darkness around the eye area for an instant relaxed and refreshed look. Revive your daytime shadow by swiping Paula Dorf Eye Shimmers in Tinsel under your brow to highlight. A great smile will make the look. Dorf created Lipstick Cream in Festive, a glamorous holiday red, to match any skintone. Just swipe on and you're set to go.

 How do I dress up my makeup for a holiday office party without going overboard?

Avoid over-the-top makeup in the office. Instead, go for a shimmery makeup look that can be applied at your desk over your daytime look, in a few simple steps:

1. Freshen up your foundation with a creamy compact foundation like Calvin Klein Medium Coverage Foundation - the oil free formulation glides on and does double-duty as concealer.

2. Define your eyes by smudging soft black eyeliner like BeneFit Bad Gal along top and bottom lash lines. Next, get flashy lashes with two coats of Christian Dior's new-for-fall Long'Optic Mascara in Black.

3. Get a golden glow with Urban Decay Cool Shimmer Stick in El Dorado. Apply golden highlights to the top of your cheekbones, under your brow, and on your décolleté - if you dare!

4. Finish the look with a swipe of tinted gloss to balance your dramatic eyes. Urban Decay XXX Shine Lip Gloss in Love Junkie adds a pop of high voltage shine and a hint of burgundy color.

How can I get a smoky eye look?

To avoid complicated cleanup from falling eyeshadow, start with your eye makeup, then do your foundation, blush, and lips.

First, apply a cream shadow, across the lid all the way to the eyebrow and along the lower lash line.

Then, with a sponge tipped applicator, press an indigo powder, on top of the cream shadow and blend the outer edges for a soft, diffused effect.

To highlight, sweep a sheer ultraviolet shimmer, just under the eyebrow and below the lower lashline.

False lashes and lots of black mascara finish the eye.

Flawless skin is achieved with oil free foundation applied with a sponge for a smooth finish.

Blend cream blush on the cheekbones toward the temples.

Line lips with lip liner and top with lip gloss.

My eyeliner smears and leaves me looking like a linebacker. How can I keep it in place?

Start with a shadow base to keep shadows and liners in place. Then choose water resistant eyeliner. If you prefer a softer, more subtle look, mix your favorite eye shadow with Paula Dorf Transformer. This solution instantly turns eye shadow into liquid liner. Just place a few drops into an eye shadow cover, dab a brush into the liquid, glide it along outer edge of the shadow, and then apply the mixture to the lash line.

Rich eye creams contain oils that break-down makeup, so switch to under eye gels like DDF Soothing Eye Gel when you wear makeup and only use eye creams at night.

And remember-any product will stay put if you top it with BeneFit SheLaq, a makeup sealant. Just brush this product over eyeliner, lipstick and brows to laminate the look.

"I like the vibrant eye colors for fall, how do I know which colors are right for me?"

Strong hues can be intimidating, so use your wardrobe as a guide. Let your favorite colors in your closet inspire you and test drive the season’s new looks by selecting shades that look great on you.

Brown eyes look soft and sexy next to rich blues. Green eyes sparkle when dusted with purple shadow. Blue eyes smolder in shades of silver. When in doubt, stick with plum tones - they compliment nearly every eye color and complexion.

If you want to go a bit less dramatic with color, try pairing a vibrant liner with a neutral shadow. Use subtle shimmers like beige on your lids to brighten the eye area and then enhance with a vivacious liner like mauve. Apply powder liners with a small liner brush and blend at the lash line to diffuse the color and soften the look. Finish with mascara in purple.

Experiment with the new colors and have fun.

I have a hard time choosing a shade of foundation. How do I find one that is right for me?

The right foundation balances your skin tone and makes your face come alive. The wrong foundation...well, we all know how unnatural a foundation that's too light or too dark can look.

To find the right foundation for your skin color, first test the base or foundation color by applying a thin line of color to the jaw line. This will allow you to compare color to the skin on the face as well as the neck to avoid any obvious differences. The color should blend perfectly with your skin tone.

As the seasons change, it's a good idea to adjust the color and texture of your foundation accordingly. While your sunscreen will protect your skin from changes in pigmentation, variations in climate may make a new formulation more comfortable. Summer foundations tend to have a sheer texture and are often deeper in tone, while a lighter shade with more complete coverage is often preferred in winter months.

What is the best way to camouflage a blemish without looking like I've piled on a ton of makeup?

First, choose a concealer base that matches your skin tone. Avoid using a color lighter than your skin tone because it will only draw more attention to the problem area. Once you have the right color, apply the concealer by dabbing just a little of the product onto the center of the pimple, then blending it outwards towards the edges and into the skin.

I'm not into heavy makeup, but tinted moisturizers don't offer enough coverage. What can I do?

Depend on layers of sheer foundation, concealer and powder to keep you covered this summer. You don't need to mask the entire surface of your face, apply products only where you need them to ensure the most natural finish.

Neutralize the redness in your skin with a sheer, yellow-based foundation. Apply it to the center of your face and blend outward with your fingers until it disappears.

Next, use a concealer to hide breakouts, sunspots and capillaries that show through the foundation. For a final touch, apply loose powder which contains ingredients that absorb oil and set foundation for just the right finish all day.

If you need a touchup, try blotting papers - they absorb the mid- afternoon "greasies" without disturbing your makeup.

I like matte looking skin but I don't want a mask of foundation - help!

Matte, polished skin is modern again, but you don't have to wear heavy or opaque foundation to get the look.

Try a multi-use foundation. A weightless formula veils your skin with sheer color and minimizes pores, leaving a subtle matte finish. Next, use a clean velvety puff to set the foundation. Instead of using powder, which can look heavy, keep the puff clean and press and roll the puff over the foundation - this will absorb any shine on your skin and set the foundation for all day wear.

I'm melting! I live in a hot, humid area and my makeup disintegrates within hours. Are there long-lasting products that look natural, not heavy?

Sizzle-proof your look and follow these simple steps to minimize makeup meltdown:

Start by controlling the oils that break-down makeup and give you the greasies by priming skin with a sebum-controlling product like Philosophy Never Let Them See You Shine.

Next, opt for long-lasting color like non-transfer cream eye shadow, waterproof liquid liners and waterproof mascara.

For a healthy, heatproof hint of color on cheeks and lips, try a stain like Lorac Sheer Wash.

Top it with BeneFit SheLaq, a makeup sealant. Just brush this product over eyeliner, lipstick and brows to laminate the look.

Tips From Newsgroups:

From kellyfl@aol.com

If you have trouble using eyeliner because the make up inside the liner pencil is too hard and thus it pulls on your eye and doesn't come off well enough onto your lid, try Physician's Formula eyeliner. It is softer and comes off onto your eye easily and without pulling.

From AllisonC@ix.netcom.com

I can finally contribute!!  There is a simple trick to help with the pencil.  Get a lighter and very quickly move the tip of the pencil through the flame.  It will soften it a little and allow for a lot better coverage.  I've used this trick for years...

From saf@best.com Wed

Ø      Does anyone make liquid eyeliner anymore?  I can't draw on my eyelids with those stupid pencils, is there some trick to it?

I always found liquid liner hard to apply. I now use a dark eye shadow and a damp eyeliner brush. I get a nice fine line and can control the depth of the color better than with liquid eyeliner.

From Sheila:

I usually use cake liner...and water. My brush is synthetic.... usually white bristle when new...I find natural bristles too soft and wimpy.... unless they're VERY expensive qualities of sable.

From Bill:

One major tip.... if you use a liquid liner...consider taking a clean, damp brush and go over the line to blur and soften it...this is very becoming, and will smooth out irregular lines....  :-)

You can also blur it with damp "Q" tips.

You can also put on a line of dark eye shadow, (like charcoal), with a small brush...this is softer looking than liquid liner.... and especially good on the lower lid.

Please throw away your mascara or liquid liner after about four months...it breeds bacteria in the closed container...and NEVER loan eye makeup to someone else!

TRANSFORMATION